old photo under finish

desi2960 · Sep 2, 2014

You might remember the guy that had me to inlay his wisdom teeth in the butt of a cue.

Now he sends me this photo, dated jan 21 1920, wants a plain one piece butt with this photo under the finish, at the butt cap area.

I don't know how a 2 part epoxy finish will affect the photo , so i had 4 copies made. i will put the finishes on a couple of them and see if the images smear.

I was going to attempt to do it like a leather wrap, put a coat of finish on the cue, then
.
the photo is .015 mm thick. cut the area where i am going to put the photo just a bit deeper than the photo and a bit of glue. glue the photo in place, let it set overnight, then refinish over the entire cue and over the photo photo.

On this one i don't know what the hell i am doing, any suggestions !!!!!!!!!!!

JoeyInCali · Sep 2, 2014

That's so ridiculous.
Does he want to pay for a scrimmed pic instead ?
Get a Juma handle scrimmed?
It won't be cheap.

desi2960 · Sep 2, 2014

joey

i dont understand your answer, please explain

That's so ridiculous.
Does he want to pay for a scrimmed pic instead ?
Get a Juma handle scrimmed?
It won't be cheap.

KJ Cues · Sep 2, 2014

You may have to 'crop' the photo.
The pic can't be any wider than the circumference of the cue at the location you intend to place it.
That's assuming you don't want it to overlap itself.
If the photo is .005/.006" thick, you would undercut the area on the handle by that amount.
Just like cutting a very thin wrap-groove.
Then clear-coat the area after setting the pic.

HTHs, KJ

MVPCues · Sep 2, 2014

My first test attempt would be to use juma as the base material. I would clear over the photo. After your last cut and final sanding, cut a mini groove in the juma and use a glue stick or very thin film of epoxy. Apply photo. Once cured, finish the cue as you normally would and evaluate results.

desi2960 · Sep 2, 2014

kj

yes the guy had wrapped the photo around the butt, and wanted to make sure when i cut it, i removed the excess from the right side of the photo.

cueman · Sep 2, 2014

You are on the right track already. If the picture smears with your epoxy finish take some laquer and spray thin coats over it and let it dry. That will block the flow out epoxy coat from smearing it.

opiesbro · Sep 2, 2014

The picture is black and white correct? How about making it into a waterslide then you don't have to cut a groove and it will just lay right on. Spray a little lacquer as Chris suggested then epoxy as normal.

Dave38 · Sep 2, 2014

If you use an actual picture made on your printer, I would suggest getting waterproof ink, otherwise use a laser printer, either method will usually insure it won't run with epoxy.
good luck and hope to see the finished product.
Dave

HawaiianEye · Sep 2, 2014

I don't know anything about wood or glue, but I remember making collages in art class where we put photos on wood and then covered them with regular Elmer's Glue and it put a coat over them like fiberglass when it dried and it was clear.

qbilder · Sep 2, 2014

Wal-mart or hobby lobby sells fast dry spray can acrylic specifically for preserving old pics and documents. I'd spray it on before finishing.

slip · Sep 2, 2014

i have a question for desi

had you given thought to placing photo in wrap area?
a little photo manipulation and that photograph could be fitted as a wrap.

and then again, maybe a super high definition miniture photo in the butt sleeve is best?

pescadoman · Sep 2, 2014

Use this stuff over the original. I've used it on cues after water slide decals(which is what I would print the photo on....100%) and on canvas prints. It is great.

http://www.aaronbrothers.com/products/crystal-clear?id=1503

Epoxy, photo, clear(acrylic), finish..

I don't know what to recommend as far as adhering the photo if you don't water slide. i suppose I'd try contact adhesive first. Even with water slides, it often takes a few attempts to get right, even, and without bubbles.

I don't know the size of the photo, but the biggest problem will be getting it to stay on a round surface while whatever you are using cures.

I have some slide paper and I'll print out several copies for you to try if you like. Otherwise, the typical paper can usually be printed using any inkjet.

slip · Sep 2, 2014

pescadoman said:
http://www.aaronbrothers.com/products/crystal-clear?id=1503

this sounds too good to be true.

Description
An acrylic permanent protective coating for drawings, artwork, watercolors,
charcoals and inks.
Prevents smudging, fingerprints and fading.
Goes on clear, stays clear. Dries in minutes.
Price: $2.99 - 11oz spray Krylon

Dirtbmw20 · Sep 2, 2014

I have no suggestions but highly interested in seeing the finished results.

pescadoman · Sep 2, 2014

slip said:
this sounds too good to be true.

Description
An acrylic permanent protective coating for drawings, artwork, watercolors,
charcoals and inks.
Prevents smudging, fingerprints and fading.
Goes on clear, stays clear. Dries in minutes.
Price: $2.99 - 11oz spray Krylon

I think that price is wrong, but I can tell you first hand that is does all that and you can apply clear over it. I've done it more than once. I still have a partial can left.

desi2960 · Sep 3, 2014

big thanks for all the suggestions.

i was able to snip a small section off the orignal photo, and put some 2 part 20 min epoxy on it and it did not smear.

i hope to get the photo on and clear coated this week.

photos as soon as i get it done.

wrong more work needed. 20 min easily peeled of sample

playing around with the test piece, bending it a bit, the 20 min epox peeled off. It will not stick to the photo. Going to the next test.

pescadoman · Sep 3, 2014

desi2960 said:
i was able to snip a small section off the orignal photo, and put some 2 part 20 min epoxy on it and it did not smear.

i hope to get the photo on and clear coated this week.

photos as soon as i get it done.

wrong more work needed. 20 min easily peeled of sample

playing around with the test piece, bending it a bit, the 20 min epox peeled off. It will not stick to the photo. Going to the next test.

I'm telling you what works. Use a water slide.

Cue Crazy · Sep 3, 2014

While lacquer will certainly help with ink smearing, with water slides I usually like to spray with the acrylic as well. The lacquer spray may work long term too for all I know, just that from an experience I had using It as a clear cote on one of My first cues. It had a nice finish for a little while, but as the years rolled by I watched it turn yellow, and even break down to the point of becoming sticky and gummy in spots. Not sure that You would have the same issues if contact with direct air and climate conditions were sealed out by the actual epoxy and top cote that would be applied over It.

scdiveteam · Sep 3, 2014

cueman said:
You are on the right track already. If the picture smears with your epoxy finish take some laquer and spray thin coats over it and let it dry. That will block the flow out epoxy coat from smearing it.

Make sure you use rattle can clear fast dry lacquer not a poly clear. I have seen an adverse effect with poly. I clear coat art cues and very light coats of ace brand lacquer is the way to go. IMO and experience.

Rick

old photo under finish

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