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Working with a GC to build a home - What do I need to know? - 02-15-2020, 02:10 PM

I'm looking to build a split level 1300 sq ft home. There are a couple of good general contractors in my area. I'm unfamiliar with the whole process and I'd like some pointers on how to get a home built for a fair price and completed on schedule. I figured there has got to be a few home builders, sub contractors, real estate agents, etc. here on AZB.
  
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02-15-2020, 02:21 PM

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Originally Posted by mr5994 View Post
I'm looking to build a split level 1300 sq ft home. There are a couple of good general contractors in my area. I'm unfamiliar with the whole process and I'd like some pointers on how to get a home built for a fair price and completed on schedule. I figured there has got to be a few home builders, sub contractors, real estate agents, etc. here on AZB.
Are you gonna use an architect?

That’s where I’d start. Their experience will help you not get screwed over while the home is being built.




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02-15-2020, 02:23 PM

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Are you gonna use an architect?

That’s where I’d start. Their experience will help you not get screwed over while the home is being built.
I agree with this, but am unsure of his fees.


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02-15-2020, 02:37 PM

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Are you gonna use an architect?

That’s where I’d start. Their experience will help you not get screwed over while the home is being built.
No architect. It's going to be a generic cookie-cutter home. I'm really just looking to build something that will hold its value for the next 8-10 years.
  
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02-15-2020, 03:01 PM

We have just built a new home, through a building company. We did not use the standard plans, but got it designed specific to use. I thought that using an architect would make it real expensive. but a good architect will save you more than the price you pay them to design a good house. The savings come from any things, like a more economical use of the raw materials, like very few part sheets of materials, etc. Better ideas of insulating a home, in such a way that it does not trap moisture and become a home with black mould etc. Nicer lighting with carefully placed windows in the right area with the right sort of glass for the over all environment you house is in. We chose a glass with a very high insulation rating and has a low transfer of UV. So the house stays cooler in summer and warmer in winter. The better glazing choice made a significant difference to the heat loss and size of the heating and cooling unit for summer/winter. It all depends on the glass to wall ratio. Unlikely that you will be buying the super window technology that has a higher R value over a wall.
To get it built on time, will require a penalty clause. In turn, taht can mean a rushed job with lots of shortcuts. We chose quality over timeframe. Our build went 3 months over estimate. From a 4 month build to a 7 month build. But am very happy with the quality of the end result. I just have to get the new 42m2 (450ft2) workshop sorted. Glass coatings have come a long way in the last 5 years, along with frame technology as well.
We did other things to make the home a more constant temp, like having doors that are nearly to the ceiling, and used cavity slider doors, to enable a more efficient use of the area. Like in entrances to bathrooms and laundry etc. The custom design house was only 11k more expensive over a cookie cutter home of the same area, but with no dedicated workshop area.
A link to window stuff, worth reading, https://homeguides.sfgate.com/energy...ows-79584.html

There is also isolated framing options available now too. It prevents the thermal bridge from inside to outside and outside to inside. Making a significant saving on the heating or cooling required for a home. It is new, so has only been available for the last 2 years, but is not yet available when we started our build out here. One link here, https://www.finehomebuilding.com/201...y-broken-studs
and Tstuds here https://www.tstud.com/

Link to R11 windows https://thinkalpen.com/products/tyro...windows-doors/


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starting right - 02-15-2020, 03:05 PM

First off, finding a general contractor is a good start. The General Contractor usually costs 15-20% more than it would cost to build a house yourself. However, the subcontractors, a half-dozen or so of them, hope to work with the General Contractor regularly, usually already are. They will do their best to please a general contractor. The guy building a house once or twice in their life? They don't care too much.

Building a house happens like a well planned military campaign. One sub fail to deliver and your time frame goes to crap. Other sub contractors may already have other committments for the timeframe you now need them in and the delays may add many months to the project as each sub now has to block out a new piece of free time.

Don't hesitate to ask for references from the General Contractor. Follow up by meeting people for coffee or taking them to lunch or supper to talk to them in a casual setting. Doing the same with the general contractor you think you might want is a good idea too. Sometimes we get along with people, sometimes two good people have a personality clash for no apparent reason. A good chance you and the GC are going to have some somewhat heated discussions before the dealing is done. The better you get along the less heated they will be and the better your odds of having intelligent conversations about issues.

Go over every detail a handful of times before committing. Changes mean not only considerable expense, they can lead to that evil, cobbling up the scheduling of all of the subs. Not unusual in some areas to have a one week delay turn into three to six months before a particular subcontractor can get back to your project. Then you have a choice between waiting on that sub or trying to find another.

Very seriously, I strongly recommend watching Mr Blandings Builds His Dream House. The name of the movie may be slightly off but while it is a comedy anyone that has built their home recognizes a lot of truth to it. "AYup!"

Which reminds me about what I have been gently hinting at this entire post, expect 50-100% more time to build your home than originally planned. If the contractor is busy the house will probably start months late to begin with. In most cases if a contractor isn't busy you don't want him!

I have never seen anyone whose temper wasn't severely tested building their own house with a general contractor. If you do waver towards being your own general contractor, realize the headaches are at least ten times worse. When a sub contractor is busy somewhere else or they are despondent because their dog died or they are just hungover they won't hesitate a bit to put you on a back burner. If you aren't lucky, some subs will be working multiple jobs at once. A problem on any site is a problem on all sites!

Having your own house built the way you want it, mostly the way you want it anyway, is a wonderful thing. It will also take years off of your life, it is that stressful at best! I know someone that just had a house built around the corner a year or two ago. That house went as smoothly as I have ever seen one go up, not to say there weren't headaches but an owner that flies the country most weeks for work helped things go more smoothly. Still fairly major cost and time overruns. Emphasis to the general contractor that you want real time frames and real cost estimates that the contractor can live with. You will probably still go ten to twenty thousand overbudget on that size house due to changes made on the fly.

Find a good contractor then mostly step back and let him do what you paid for him to do. Plan most of your site visits for when nobody will be there. Also visit the site with the contractor when nobody else is there if there are issues, perhaps include only the sub that you are having an issue with.

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02-15-2020, 03:14 PM

When I built my first house 20 years ago I got 3 bids on the plans.

My framing buddy convinced me to build it myself. He provided me with a "critical path" from a huge company he had framed a lot of houses for.

The critical path puts every small job into order so you don't ever get ahead of your skis.

When I was done I spent 60 k less than the lowest bid and had much better flooring, fixtures and appliances than originally planned. That lowest bid was 155k. I found the saving much more than the 15-20% they claim they charge.

I did the finish work and of course all the stuff that didn't fit anyone else's bid. I knew many of the subs I used as customers of my auto repair shop.

I never missed a day of work at my auto shop and was living in my new house in 4 months.

It went so well that my buddy wanted me to close my auto shop and build houses with him. He said my first project went better than 80% of all the generals he works with.


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02-15-2020, 04:21 PM

I built a new house in 2004. I negotiated a flat fee with the contractor and approved all subs bids and contracts


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02-15-2020, 04:29 PM

Lots of things to consider when building a house.

Are you looking to build a rickety shit hole that just passes inspection at every level or do you want something that is of true value to you and the next owner?

You need to establish a baseline.


Keep your head down and admire the shot.


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02-15-2020, 08:12 PM

Unless you are single, have a strong marriage.

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02-16-2020, 07:03 AM

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Lots of things to consider when building a house.

Are you looking to build a rickety shit hole that just passes inspection at every level or do you want something that is of true value to you and the next owner?
My goal is to build a rickety shithole......lol.

Looking to build a solid home..... good windows, quality siding.....etc. But no Brazillian granite countertops, no $10/sq ft hard wood flooring....etc.....you get the picture.
  
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02-16-2020, 07:12 AM

Thanks everyone for the advice. One question I have is on how the contract is generally structured....... Will the GC quote the entire house.....and stand behind it? Or will they quote their own labor/services.....while the cost of materials is variable?
  
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02-16-2020, 07:56 AM

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Originally Posted by mr5994 View Post
My goal is to build a rickety shithole......lol.

Looking to build a solid home..... good windows, quality siding.....etc. But no Brazillian granite countertops, no $10/sq ft hard wood flooring....etc.....you get the picture.
Understood.

Your foundation.
You want your footings to exceed spec.
Any poured cement should be a minimum of 4000lb.
There are only 2 types of slabs. Those that have cracked and those that will.

The big issue today is that nobody allows the foundation to settled. Or allows the house framing to dry so that there is not shrinkage after the finish work is done.


Now.
One thing to consider then is how important to you is the houses thermal efficiency.

Outside of the cost of the construction and interest on any potential mortgage. Utilities are going to cost you the most money in the long run.

Since you are not going to be spending excess money on unnecessary accouterments I would first suggest you consider how you want the building constructed.

The first thing is you have alternatives to framing.
You cant make the house bullet proof by using foam block and have a wall insulation factor of over 20R.
Doing so lowers your framing expenses. It leaves you with your floor joists, ceilings, inside walls and roof.
You just have to be sure where you want all your windows and doors.

If you go with framing.
You should specify you want a minimum of R21 in all the exterior walls. This will fit inside 2x6 framing.
On all your interior walls I would use wool sound deadening insulation.
Make sure all your ceiling and floor joists exceed code.
You want at least R39 in the ceilings and R21 in the floors.

Floor joists and headers.
If the contractor is going to use anything other than Douglas fur it should be paralams or LVL's
DO NOT allow him to use anything that has an OSB vertical component. That makes it look like an I beam. They are cheap garbage. Contractors love them.

Windows and doors.
Do not get sucked into Anderson. Companies like Atrium have less expensive windows that surpass Anderson in efficiency.
Do not select any window or door that falls below mid grade. Mid upper grade is always a good choice.

In your hot water supply:
You have several options for keeping lower utilities.
One is a hot water heat pump. Very efficient if set up properly. Then you have whole house flash heaters to consider.

On your wiring for networking and entertainment. You want to have the entire house wired with Cat6 and RG6 coax.

On your building materials.
DO NOT allow the contractor to talk you into OSB or some variant. You want plywood. 1/2 4 ply on the walls and roof.

The Zip systems are very popular right now. Time will tell if they will fail over time. In reality they are nothing but waterproof particle board.

3/4 T&G for all floors.
Also everything is to be on 16 inch centers. No 24's.

Siding.
You should be looking at siding that has insulation impregnated into it. This gives you an additional R3-4 on the house.

As far as roofing material goes.
Consider your location. How much cold vs hot weather do you have?
If one exceeds the other will determine if you want a light or dark colored roof.
If you go with shingles make sure they have anti algae and fungus materials impregnated in them.

Bathrooms and kitchens
These are money pits.
However it does not pay to go with the cheapest materials in either.
You want good cabinets, counter tops vanities, faucets and fixtures.
Personally I like tile in both the bath and kitchen. Makes for good resale value and generally makes the room pop. Subway or diamond pattern are always good pattern choices.
In the Tub or shower consider having the contractor at add wall pockets. It is a very nice touch and costs little. You may want 2x6 framing there.

There is more but I think you get the idea.

As far as your contract with the GC goes. The price will range depending on the options you want and any change orders you make.
There will be contingencies in the contract if the builder knows his stuff.
There should be no surprises.
Once the materials list is completed. It should remain static unless you choose to make changes.

Also you have to specify who is going to be providing the various contractors.
Framers, masons, siders, roofers, insulators, sheet-rockers, painters, bath, tile and kitchen installers. Etc.

If the contractor is a full phase GC he will probably provide everybody.
You however have to get the details.


Keep your head down and admire the shot.


COVFEFE!!



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02-16-2020, 08:06 AM

When my dad built his house, the last house he lived in, back in around 1980, he acted as his own contractor and I designed the house under his direction.

Turned out great. Amazing house.

.


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02-16-2020, 08:09 AM

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When my dad built his house, the last house he lived in, back in around 1980, he acted as his own contractor and I designed the house under his direction.

Turned out great. Amazing house.

.
Being your own contractor requires certain skills and expertise. It is not for everybody.

Being the highly anal individual that you are. I have no doubt your dads residence was well built.


Keep your head down and admire the shot.


COVFEFE!!



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