100 year old Brunswick Old Mission B restoration

SeabrookMiglla

SeabrookMiglla

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hey, very nice job on the table!

i really like the color of the table, i think it looks really nice!

i love that pool has such a long history to it, and i love shooting on old tables.

its really cool that you got to do a project like this, and i enjoyed the progress report. maybe one day ill undertake a project as such.

i think if you get that stained glass light hanging above, i think that would really pull the room together.

for instance- my brother and a buddy of mine both had nice houses with real nice pool tables in them, although neither of them had table lights. for some reason i think it throws off the atmosphere of the room. if you are committing that room for man cave purposes, i personally think its worth the extra expenditure.
 
Bob 14:1

Bob 14:1

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
On a somewhat related note, and I'm not intending to hijack this thread, but....

My 9' Anniversary DC has a couple spots where the ball dives slowly into the cushions.

Without any major re leveling planned for the moment since my 860 is nearly new and I also have the rack permanently drawn on the cloth, is there any way of targeting these areas with shims, etc.??? I place this question here since asking a mechanic would obviously result in a complete do over as the answer. Just thought I'd give it a shot. :smile:

Thanks a million for any suggestions...
 
3kushn

3kushn

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
ideologist said:
I bet you'd have a hard time getting a grand out of it. Used Gold Crowns go for less than 1000 all the time.

The T-rails are less desirable for 'serious players'.
Click to expand...

I always loved playing on T-Rails. I suppose the 'serious players' are those that play or want to play in the better tournaments. I suppose it may be better to play on modern tables for this reason but if this table is set up properly IMO it will play every bit as well as a modern table. Problem is many mechanics don't have the experience or simply will not work on these. They can be a challenge.

BTW its probably time to recheck the tightness of your rail bolts. Some have probably loosened. Usually only need to do this once following a new install.

If you really want to know the value contact Billiard Restoration billiardrestoration.com/pricing-availablity-of-antique-pool-tables
or the original in Clay Center, KS Newell Billiards and Antiques 785) 632-5955
The son at Newell is Brunswick's Historian. The old man knows a thing or 2 as well.
 
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pupdog1243

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Bob 14:1 said:
On a somewhat related note, and I'm not intending to hijack this thread, but....



My 9' Anniversary DC has a couple spots where the ball dives slowly into the cushions.



Without any major re leveling planned for the moment since my 860 is nearly new and I also have the rack permanently drawn on the cloth, is there any way of targeting these areas with shims, etc.??? I place this question here since asking a mechanic would obviously result in a complete do over as the answer. Just thought I'd give it a shot. :smile:



Thanks a million for any suggestions...
Click to expand...



I am no expert but I think you would have to remove the rails in order to get at the slate screws. That would also involve cutting the felt in order to loosen the screws to put shims in and then retighten the slate screws. That is assuming yours are under the rails and hidden. If not you have no choice but to live with it or redo it.



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pupdog1243

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
3kushn said:
I always loved playing on T-Rails. I suppose the 'serious players' are those that play or want to play in the better tournaments. I suppose it may be better to play on modern tables for this reason but if this table is set up properly IMO it will play every bit as well as a modern table. Problem is many mechanics don't have the experience or simply will not work on these. They can be a challenge.



BTW its probably time to recheck the tightness of your rail bolts. Some have probably loosened. Usually only need to do this once following a new install.



If you really want to know the value contact Billiard Restoration billiardrestoration.com/pricing-availablity-of-antique-pool-tables

or the original in Clay Center, KS Newell Billiards and Antiques 785) 632-5955

The son at Newell is Brunswick's Historian. The old man knows a thing or 2 as well.
Click to expand...




I honestly can't tell a difference on my t rails and modern rails. I suppose the pros can, but the amateur guys are probably just repeating what they heard or have played on a t rail not properly set up.

I too love the history, as you can tell. Most of my furnishings are antiques and have a story. Most are also family pieces. I have my great great grandparents dining room set. How many ppl can say that!!

I suppose one day I will pursue an appraisal to determine value, but was just curious what the group here would come back with.

Will do on the rail bolts. Thanks for the input!!


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3kushn

3kushn

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
pupdog1243 said:
I honestly can't tell a difference on my t rails and modern rails. I suppose the pros can, but the amateur guys are probably just repeating what they heard or have played on a t rail not properly set up.

I too love the history, as you can tell. Most of my furnishings are antiques and have a story. Most are also family pieces. I have my great great grandparents dining room set. How many ppl can say that!!

I suppose one day I will pursue an appraisal to determine value, but was just curious what the group here would come back with.

Will do on the rail bolts. Thanks for the input!!


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Click to expand...
PLEASE DO NOT OVER DUE THE RAIL BOLTS.
They can and will crack your slates if over tightened. Just go around and you will see that some will easily move. That's all. If you have a torque wrench I think I remember Cobra saying something around 12 or 15 Ft/lbs. That seems light to me. If using a bit brace that's only about 1.5 pounds of pressure on the handle.. Your loose ones will move easier than that.

I'll try a search in the Mechanics forum and you should do the same.
 
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pupdog1243

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I use an adjustable pin wrench. Similar to what comes with an angle grinder but adjustable. It's hard to over torque that. I'm probably a little under torqued. I tightened it until I couldn't wiggle the rail. I have no indications that any are loose yet.


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Last edited:
pt109

pt109

WO double hemlock
Silver Member
pupdog1243 said:
Are there unstamped meuccis?


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Click to expand...

Nope...usually the owners stamp on them. :rolleyes:


thanx to pupdog and Diogenes...I'm gonna use a level more often.
Sometimes I look at a table roll and ponder whether I should raise
one end, or drop the other.

Any clues on this?
 
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pupdog1243

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So that would imply it's not a Meucci if there is no marking on it, right?

My rule of thumb is use the least amount of shims necessary. less to move/change. so If it were me, I'd vote for the drop, but then again, I'm not a table mechanic.
 
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