Universal Tip Centralizer

cuetips1000

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member

This Universal Tip Centralizer is an outstanding tool and must-have for all who have to do proper tip installation.

It centers all kinds and dias* of cue tips very precise, easy and quick: regular tips, laminated tips, leather tips, synthetic tips, hybrid tips, flat tips, pre-domed tips; also very thin tips and fiber pads* are no problem for the Tip Centralizer (watch the video).

Place the tip in the clamping part, shove the tool in your chuck, put glue on and here we go! Due to the self-centering mechanism the tip will be perfectly centered, clamped and squared while glue is drying under pressure.
One tool for all and no more trouble with out-centered cue tips.


The Universal Tip Centralizer is made of steel, alu and brass; built to last.

If your lathe chuck isn’t dead nuts with the tailstock, the Universal Tip Centralizer allows you a fine adjustment (approx. +/- 0,5 mm) to bring ferrule and tip in alignment for a perfect “wedding”. Adjust it only one time and it will work on your lathe.


*Two models are available:

Mod. 15 clamps tips and fiber pads with a dia up to 15 mm
Mod. 18 clamps tips and fiber pads with a dia up to 18 mm


If interested contact me via PM

Thank's and kind regards
cuetips1000 (Olaf)



 
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ELBeau

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What's the mechanism/material for keeping the tip centered? I've watched your videos, but none of them show inside the unit. Is it made of acetal or the like so that glue won't stick to it? Would hate to gum up the works and ruin the tool with a little extra glue.
 

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What's the mechanism/material for keeping the tip centered? I've watched your videos, but none of them show inside the unit. Is it made of acetal or the like so that glue won't stick to it? Would hate to gum up the works and ruin the tool with a little extra glue.

Good question, I was thinking the same thing Myself.
 

AtLarge

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
What's the mechanism/material for keeping the tip centered? I've watched your videos, but none of them show inside the unit. Is it made of acetal or the like so that glue won't stick to it? Would hate to gum up the works and ruin the tool with a little extra glue.

I, also, would like to hear about this. Do high (thick) tips stick out more from the front of the mechanism and lessen the chance of getting squeezed-out glue inside it? If so, would thin tips or a thin fibre tip pad sit well back inside and increase the chance of getting squeeze-out on the mechanism? Or does everything adjust somehow to the same depth before being applied to the ferrule?
 
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bruppert

<Insert witty comment>
Silver Member
I, also, would like to hear about this. Do high (thick) tips stick out more from the front of the mechanism and lessen the chance of getting squeezed-out glue inside it? If so, would thin tips or a thin fibre tip pad sit well back inside and increase the chance of getting squeeze-out on the mechanism? Or does everything adjust somehow to the same depth before being applied to the ferrule?

Ditto. I made one out of Delrin that works ok and it only cost me a buck or two. If I get glue in it a Dental probe will clean it out. Other than it looks nicer, why would I pay $70 - $80 for this?
 

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ditto. I made one out of Delrin that works ok and it only cost me a buck or two. If I get glue in it a Dental probe will clean it out. Other than it looks nicer, why would I pay $70 - $80 for this?


Personally I like the idea and looks of the tool, If It can be dialed in that in that well, then I can see It coming In real handy for reattaching high dollar tips if they were to pop off. Most cheaper tips I would just install a new one though. I had been watching the other thread waiting for a price to come out, and I have a little sticker shock too, but I also understand that some tooling is not cheap. I can pay 60 bucks, or more for a simple tap, and more money for other tooling relating to the size, but then I can make that back on one shaft build too, and I own the tap for the next time that I need that pitch. I can see this paying for itself over time, and saving money, as well as some of the stress too if it centers well enough, I do have concerns about glue getting inside, and would like to see a better clip showing how the mechanism holding the tip looks and works, if it can be dissembled, cleaned, etc., but with all the copy cats out there, I can't say I would blame someone for not showing detail video of that. I'm also curious what the 18mm tool is for, are there people putting 18mm tips on cues? I'm sure I'm missing something, but Seems like the largest size that I would need would be 15mm.
 

cuetips1000

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Please correct me if I talk trash: 98 % of all cue tips available on the market have a height between 5 and 10 mm, the average is maybe ca. 7 mm?

The UTC has a distance regulator which works stepless. If you wanna glue a tip with 5 mm thickness you can adjust the tool in such a way, that the tip stands out 3 mm or even 4 mm if it is flat on both sides. The glueing process then takes place outside of the tool; squeezed glue or excess gum has no chance to creep into the “interior”.

That means: in 98% of the cases there is no need to bother.

If you have to glue very thin tips, maybe 3 mm thick, or 2 mm or 1 mm, then it could happen that too much excess glue reaches the mechanism. In that case, wipe off the glue with a Q-tip or a Kleenex. You can moisten the cloth with water, cleaners solvent, acetone or brake cleaner. The tool will work as it was before.
Beforehand you can also oil the clamping part with gun oil, that makes it harder for excess glue to adhere and easier for you to remove it.

My advice for very thin tips: Do not use too much glue; there is no need that the glue oozes out like expanding foam. Monitor the hardening process and if you notice excess glue on the clamping part wipe it off. That’s all!

BTW: What is the height of the thinnest tips you have in stock?

The largest diameter for common cue tips is 15 mm, unless I am mistaken. I think the Tweeten Fibre Company offers that big “caliber” and also Tiger Products and maybe some other producers. In my experience the manufacturer information about the diameter is only a “benchmark” or guide value. In fact most tips are a little bit larger. So, if you buy 15 mm tips it could be that they have a dia of 15,1 or 15,2 mm. Then you can not use the UTC Mod.15.

Sometimes I get the impression that each week comes out a brand new tip. Imagine: a tip manufacturer offers his new product only in 16 mm? The UTC Mod. 15 couldn’t handle it; the Mod. 18 can.

Apart from this: I am not sure, but I think, I have read an article on AZ that there is a tendency to build cue tips larger than 15 mm in the dia.

Whatever! The UTC Mod. 15 will do the job in 99% of all cases. The larger one will do 100 %.

Kind regards
Olaf
 

mooseman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I just received my Universal Tip Centralizer tools and all I can say is "WOW". Some folks may say the cost is way too high. Some folks say there are other tools that work as well.

It is one of the most ingenuitive tools I have see and used. Once properly adjusted with the headstock which is simple to do it works EXACTLY as advertised. It took me approximately 5 minutes. Just watch the YouTube videos where he places various size tips on a ferrule. They are perfectly centered.

Even if your tailstock and headstock are NOT deadnuts, this tool can be adjusted to compensate for the error.

Yes it is expensive but engineering quality usually is........!!!!!!!

Great product!!!!!!!!!!
 

cuesblues

cue accumulator
Silver Member
I've used the tip centering tool that came with my Cue Companion, and it works, but I like the looks of this tool.
I think it's a terrific idea, well thought out, just a little pricey.
 

mooseman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've used the tip centering tool that came with my Cue Companion, and it works, but I like the looks of this tool.
I think it's a terrific idea, well thought out, just a little pricey.

You are correct it is pricey BUT it is by far the BEST tool I've seen and used. Again it does have to initially be adjusted for alignment with your setup. Took me 5 minutes and REALLY simple to do.

Anything that reduces headaches and makes things even easier and quicker is a godsend.

Heck while most folks now use superglue gel, you can now use a slower setting glue or epoxy and keep the tip pressed against the ferrule until dry. Just depends on your preference. I was even more sold on it after watching the YouTube video.

Finally how often do you find it difficult to ensure your tip is perfectly flat against the ferrule with even pressure. Just press the tip against the ferrule, open the spring handle, the tip seats against the ferrule, release the spring handle and the tip is again clamped by the tool. Back the tool off, glue the ferrule, and push the tool forward. Tighten your tailstock and let the glue dry. The tip is PERFECTLY centered. Only downside is using too much glue on a thin tip but the OP already addressed that.

Again if your Cue Companion tool works for you then great. If other methods work then great. If you are a novice/newbie then this is the nuts. Very innovative and does the job PERFECTLY for which it was designed!!!!!!! A PERFECTLY CENTERED TIP!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Dirtbmw20

Lee Casto
Silver Member
You are correct it is pricey BUT it is by far the BEST tool I've seen and used. Again it does have to initially be adjusted for alignment with your setup. Took me 5 minutes and REALLY simple to do.

Anything that reduces headaches and makes things even easier and quicker is a godsend.

Heck while most folks now use superglue gel, you can now use a slower setting glue or epoxy and keep the tip pressed against the ferrule until dry. Just depends on your preference. I was even more sold on it after watching the YouTube video.

Finally how often do you find it difficult to ensure your tip is perfectly flat against the ferrule with even pressure. Just press the tip against the ferrule, open the spring handle, the tip seats against the ferrule, release the spring handle and the tip is again clamped by the tool. Back the tool off, glue the ferrule, and push the tool forward. Tighten your tailstock and let the glue dry. The tip is PERFECTLY centered. Only downside is using too much glue on a thin tip but the OP already addressed that.

Again if your Cue Companion tool works for you then great. If other methods work then great. If you are a novice/newbie then this is the nuts. Very innovative and does the job PERFECTLY for which it was designed!!!!!!! A PERFECTLY CENTERED TIP!!!!!!!!!!

Awesome to hear the tool works as described and the quality of the engineering is up to par. I highly considered buying one BUT the OP said he had to have TEN orders before he would even start building the tools, so that meant my money was gonna be tied up for about 6-8 weeks. I would love to have one but might just have to wait until ther seller has some in actual STOCK and not taking orders/money to fund the build.
 

mooseman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Awesome to hear the tool works as described and the quality of the engineering is up to par. I highly considered buying one BUT the OP said he had to have TEN orders before he would even start building the tools, so that meant my money was gonna be tied up for about 6-8 weeks. I would love to have one but might just have to wait until ther seller has some in actual STOCK and not taking orders/money to fund the build.

I must admit I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly I received my tool. Either business is brisk and he got his 10 orders OR he had enough stock in hand. Personally I placed the order as soon as I could. The other thing he frequently kept me informed on the status (ie received payment, tool being built, tool built, tool shipped, etc). I almost felt like I was being SPAMMED but at least in a good way...... :smile::smile::smile:
 

Dirtbmw20

Lee Casto
Silver Member
I must admit I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly I received my tool. Either business is brisk and he got his 10 orders OR he had enough stock in hand. Personally I placed the order as soon as I could. The other thing he frequently kept me informed on the status (ie received payment, tool being built, tool built, tool shipped, etc). I almost felt like I was being SPAMMED but at least in a good way...... :smile::smile::smile:

That's GREAT to know the seller kept good communication during the process. At the time of his announcement, I had cash in hand ready to buy but dind't feel comfortable "funding" the build, too much can go wrong in that case, BUT if he had some in stock, I wish he would've said so. Maybe he just built them quick, either way, thanks for the feedback on the tool, it's good to hear positive feedback on the tool AND the seller.

NOW if he would just get some in stock, I would buy one immediately. :)
 

cuesblues

cue accumulator
Silver Member
it does have to initially be adjusted for alignment with your setup. Took me 5 minutes and REALLY simple to do.

In that case it might be too much tooling for me...:smile:
If I have to centralize the centralizer it defeats the purpose...:shrug:
 

mooseman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Mooseman........ which model tool did you buy ??? The 15mm or the 18mm one ??

I actually bought the 18mm.

NOTE: I actually only needed the 15mm since all the tips I have in stock are 14mm. Call it overkill, call it foolishness, call it a waste of money.....

I figured if the tool is expensive anyway another $10 doesn't really make that much of a difference in the big picture. Why limit yourself.....???

At the end of the day he probably has more 18mm in stock since most folks are going to purchase the 15mm. Of course the opposite is true, it may take longer to get 10 orders for the 18mm since who would order the 18 if the 15 will do all your jobs..... Things that make you go HMMMMM.....
 
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