you can get all diffrent kinds of epoxy dye at woodcraft i have a store local that i picked up some, i use it with a slow epoxy for glueing in my inlays i have brown black and white white works very well for not making a noticable glue line near the ferrule.
Good luck
While I'm not passing judgment on your use of a white pigment added to the epoxy
for mounting a ferrule, I would be willing to share my opinion regarding it's use
with respect to Predator ferrules.
At the time that the Gen-2 Predator shafts were initially released, someone in the
manufacturing process had the idea to do exactly as you are suggesting; adding a white pigment
to the epoxy to hide the glue-line.
If you recall, many of these ferrules had problems of de-bonding and cracking.
I replaced many of these ferrules.
On every one of these de-bonded/cracked ferrules that I had replaced, white pigment had been
used in the epoxy. While the pigmented epoxy provided an ALMOST adequate
bond to the wooden tenon, it did prove to be lacking in it's ability to bond to the
interior wall of the ferrule. Many felt that the composition of the ferrule mtrl.
itself was to blame and it was about the same time that the ferrule mtrl. was replaced with what it is now.
IIRC, the transition was from Titan to Max-lite.
I've had to replace very few of the ferrules made of the current mtrl. but I'm very leery to suggest
that the problem was solely that of the ferrule mtrl. itself.
I'm leaning towards the position that it was a combination of factors, that of both the ferrule mtrl.
and the addition of the white pigment.
I'm not privy to the amount of pigment that was used with the initial ferrule mtrl.
but the residual epoxy that was still left on the tenon was very white.
In a lot of cases it would literally peel off.
I'm not much concerned with a glue-line at the base of the ferrule because if your
machining of the ferrule and it's corresponding shoulder on the shaft are accurate,
there is very little if any glue-line visible.
There are however, instances where it's unavoidable, such as when the epoxy will wick
into the end-grain of the shaft. Quick setting epoxies may have an advantage here
but maybe not. You want the epoxy to wick into the surface of the tenon but not the
end-grain of the shaft's shoulder. Quite a conundrum.
The pigment has no bonding properties and as such will dilute the epoxy.
So I guess that in this case anyway, it comes down to a trade-off.
Do you compromise the bonding properties of the epoxy by adding a pigment to it or do you leave it
in full-strength form and rely on accurate machining to minimize a glue-line?
Use the epoxy pigment if you must, just use it sparingly.
