CNC Point issue??

cuebuyer4u

Gamble Cues
Silver Member
I think ill just get another tailstock and make it the right size for inlays and trade them out as needed
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
I think ill just get another tailstock and make it the right size for inlays and trade them out as needed

Or you can have a dead center made on a 4-jaw chuck with the tip off-setted .100 ?
That's what independent 4-jaw chucks do.
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Chris,
I have not used a cue monster but I have used a lathe and mill for indexing. In fact I have an indexing set up for the lathe for building recut points. That particular setup works between centers. It has the ability to offset the tail stock. It is designed such that the work piece can pivot on the center and still remain indexed. In the idea you guys propose you are cheating really. If you hold one end rigid and try forcing the other end off center something has to give. So either your piece is bending or it is slipping in the jaws of your chuck. In this case if I remember how the the cue monster works you are relying on a pin that is parallel to your center to drive your piece. In which case it will be driving itself in and out of the piece as you rotate or index. Can it work...sure, but is it a very reliable way of indexing? I guess in this case if it works and it gets you through the job great.
Here is a pic of my setup for in between points indexing. I have given this a fair amount of thought. This set up also allows me to remove the piece from the machine multiple times to do other operations and not lose my indexing.

You are correct about it sometimes causing a bind and slippage when offsetting a short 13" forearm .400" for cutting point grooves, but when offsetting a 30" butt .125" it does not cause any binding issues.
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
It's closer to .2 for the cue to be level tho.

You are right that .200" is indeed level, but what we are after for most inlay work is getting the cue level enough and not perfectly level. So .125" is level enough for most types of inlay work. And no leveling at all is okay for butt sleeve inlays. It is forearm points that require some leveling.
 

JBCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You cant cut a square bottom pocket on an angle. You can program it so the zaxis moves down as it travels down the cue but the pocket geometry would be wrong. The machine axis has to be the same as the axis that you want to machine, that is the reason for tilting the cue.

Well I don't see the pocket geometry would be wrong. That's how I done mine for years. Bob cad wI'll do it for you.
 
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JBCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Your part does not need match the pocket. By cutting with the z you are doing the same.thing as using a tailstock off set. You are just using the z axis to accomplish you flat bottom to your taper. I was also doing this in bobcat 21
 
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Canadian cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Well I don't see the pocket geometry would be wrong. That's how I done mine for years. Bob cad wI'll do it for you.

So what does the corners of your pocket look like? If you are using a tool which is spinning around in a circle and is feeding down on the z at the same time as moving in the the y or the x you are creating a rad in the corner of your pocket. So do you cut a part to match that geometry? Not to mention that the side walls of your part are still going to be parallel to the z axis. So the sides of your pocket would be kinda wonky. I guess because we are dealing with only a slight angle you could machine your parts with enough clearance you could fit them into the pockets, doesnt mean it is geometrically right though.
 

JBCustomCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Maybe some one can contact Kenny Murrell and see if he would be kind enough to post how it's done. He is the one who tough me. I have been out of cue building for a good while and I just don't remember the step by step details.
 
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