Opinions on Rail rebuilders a can of worms?

I would give that rubber a chance.....it can go a bit dead from not being hit....
...but hitting those rails can bring them back to life.
The main action tables in a lot of old rooms would have the best set of rails...
..due to frequent use.

...a rubber mallet from a body shop can speed up the process...just keep hitting the rails...
...no harder than a ball would hit them.

We got four GCIs in our room with original rubber...might be a half length to a full length
slower...but they still play well.

No regrets here on new rails/cushions. Yes, it costs money but you get exactly the table you want for years of playing pleasure. Mine were custom and were Artemis both times.

TATE said:

No regrets here on new rails/cushions. Yes, it costs money but you get exactly the table you want for years of playing pleasure. Mine were custom and were Artemis both times.

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The trouble with re-rubbering a GCI is that the rubber isn’t available any more...
...Brunswick SuperSpeed doesn’t play quite right on it...the fitting is quite costly...
...to have rubber that still doesn’t play as well.

Ron Padilla said:

Is there any input on repairing what is there as I do agree about the original rubber, all though I cannot recall what I have had on some of the real old balk collender tables I have had but most likely the same as the GC1 and would like to keep it


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I'm still trying to figure out how a person can rebuild the split end grain of the rails without having to remove the cushions to do so.

pt109 said:

I would give that rubber a chance.....it can go a bit dead from not being hit....
...but hitting those rails can bring them back to life.
The main action tables in a lot of old rooms would have the best set of rails...
..due to frequent use.

...a rubber mallet from a body shop can speed up the process...just keep hitting the rails...
...no harder than a ball would hit them.

We got four GCIs in our room with original rubber...might be a half length to a full length
slower...but they still play well.

Click to expand...

So the 4 GC1s still have the huge corner pockets as well as the split ends of the rails causing the cupping effect when pocketing balls?

realkingcobra said:

So the 4 GC1s still have the huge corner pockets as well as the split ends of the rails causing the cupping effect when pocketing balls?

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They will spit out balls with speed down the rails.
...gotta lot of experience with that for years...played on a lot with bad shims also.
Our Diamond 9-footers play much better....4,75 pockets.

Good luck with that.
Better make sure the mech who does them is reputable .
If someone says he'll do it for $300, run.

FYI: I don't think Jerimy Chambers is doing rail work anymore. I hired him about 2 years ago to build completely new rails from scratch. He never did it and I eventually got sick of reminding him. I assume he is busy with other stuff. He seemed like a nice guy otherwise and his rail work looked very impressive. Hopefully he gets back into it sometime.

My apologies to you and all else who I didn't get back to about new rails. I rarely get on az anymore so private messages never got read. :sorry: I unfortunately lost my binder with a list of interested parties. please feel free to email me @ jerimychambers@yahoo.com I am still making rails and am running about 2-3 months out for delivery. I purchased some cnc machines (tooling them up now) to help me to get them produced a little faster. I am now also producing new aluminum trim for the gc 1,2,3 and 4 rails. I will try to get some update pics for anyone with interest. (FeelDaShot) please reach out to me again I will try to accommodate you for the frustration.

I have no regrets having rails reworked, or in my case, new rails from Mark Gregory. Like RKC and the others have said, there is a lot more to good rails than a decent rebound. I'm just talking from personal experience with my Anniversary, but more than likely the OPs pocket angles, down angles are all wrong, not to mention the shelves are probably not in specs. In my case the figure 8 plate inserts required rework, the pocket casting mounting had the same issues, the cushion bevel was wrong for todays K-55 profile, and last but not least, the staple areas were toast. Some of that is probably due to years of commercial use, others maybe factory flaws. I don't know why anyone would want to correct all these issues, and then step backwards and put original 60 year old rubber back on the bevels? Makes no sense to me, even if the rubber were that much better back in those days, it's still 60 years old and there is no magic rubber out there with an effective service, or shelf life of 60 years.

There is nothing worse than playing on a table that rejects balls that were perfectly hit, and on the other side of the coin, accepts balls that it shouldn't. I don't mind playing on tight tables and missing shots, I just want equipment that meets, or exceeds BCA standards, and most importantly plays fair. Playing on a table that has crappy pockets is like playing basketball with an oversized, odd-shaped hoop, mounted to a flimsy backboard.