What glue for tips and ferrule are you using?

Lexicologist71 said:

For a repair, time is sometimes a little too short wait for 8 hours or more as epoxy cures. If 5 minute epoxy can bond non porous material like steel, wood seems a no brainier. Yes, the techs say not to, but they are also hoping to sell their product. If they don't, West will find someone who can.

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I am sitting in a room with people who build boats for a living and assemble ultralight aircraft, things that people trust their lives to. You actually think the manufacture is going to BS them? Do you know what the term "Wet out" means? It can't be done with 5 minute epoxy and it is what is required for wood bonding. I have changed ferrules many many times that seemed to be fine but may have been chipped or something. As you cut them away you find almost no glue bond at all at the tenon. In fact they often just peel away as you get them down to the tenon.

Then you change a ferrule and as you get to the tenon the ferrule is actually part of the tenon it is glued so well. You know this cue maker understands how glue works. The information is all there for study. In fact you should not take anyones word for it, do the research.

For tips; I've never installed a ferrule.

Great info!

macguy said:

I am sitting in a room with people who build boats for a living and assemble ultralight aircraft, things that people trust their lives to. You actually think the manufacture is going to BS them? Do you know what the term "Wet out" means? It can't be done with 5 minute epoxy and it is what is required for wood bonding. I have changed ferrules many many times that seemed to be fine but may have been chipped or something. As you cut them away you find almost no glue bond at all at the tenon. In fact they often just peel away as you get them down to the tenon.

Then you change a ferrule and as you get to the tenon the ferrule is actually part of the tenon it is glued so well. You know this cue maker understands how glue works. The information is all there for study. In fact you should not take anyones word for it, do the research.

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I have noticed that I can pick the epoxy off the wood with my fingernail on ferrule replacements I've done. This is on factory installed ferrules and ones I've done. Since the factory installed ferrules seemed the same I didn't think mine we're bad, wet out never occurred to me. I'm not a wood guy by any means. Your explanation makes perfect sense to me, I will be using slow set epoxy from now on. I'm not in any hurry when I'm doing ferrule replacements anyway. (I don't have a customer waiting because I don't have customers) thanks for the info!
Tom

I use Loc Tite rubberized gel. I haven't ever seen any 454 around my neck of the woods.

I keep mine in the freezer, even after I open one. Of course, I have read where storing it in the fridge doesn't do any good after it is opened.

My containers are marked so I know when the glue is getting old whether Its done or not.

I don't throw it out as it can be used for other house hold fixes. I just don't use it on tips
any longer.

I don't like wasting things, must be the bit of Scottish in me.

That and the Loc Tite is 8 bucks and change up here.

cueman said:

Five minute epoxy for ferrules and Loctite Ultra Gel for tips.

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Ditto here.

Hi,

All glue tests are performed where glue is applied and then a clamping force is applied.

When gluing a ferrule to a tenon, there is no clamping force except for a jacking force applied to the end grain from the threads or the tail stock pressure on through ferrules. So when you sand the tenon to get your correct interference fit between the ID and the OD I don't think that the wicking is that critical in that application where there is no way to clamp the ferrule to the tenon. But lets face it we are really splitting hairs here.

Threading the ferrule or filing keyway groves creates an intricate foundation structure for glue that creates a mechanical joint when the glue cures.

The adhesion of these glues today is very good so whatever you use all things should be fine if your tolerances are correct for your tried and true method that you have had success with over a long period of time is practiced.

There is no right or wrong. Stick to what is proven to be successful for your shop and practices. Only through observation over a long period of time will anyone establish 100% confidence in any procedure or work practice

It is great that we all come here on this forum and share our thoughts about important things like this because we all gain insight to other ways to approach a topic by reading.

JMO,

Rick

Blue Hog ridr said:

I use Loc Tite rubberized gel. I haven't ever seen any 454 around my neck of the woods.

I keep mine in the freezer, even after I open one. Of course, I have read where storing it in the fridge doesn't do any good after it is opened.

My containers are marked so I know when the glue is getting old whether Its done or not.

I don't throw it out as it can be used for other house hold fixes. I just don't use it on tips
any longer.

I don't like wasting things, must be the bit of Scottish in me.

That and the Loc Tite is 8 bucks and change up here.

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be careful storing opened CA glues in a freezer/fridge where there is also food. vapors leak out and get into any food items. you may not smell it or taste it, but it is there in minute quantities and it's quite bad for you. factory sealed containers should be OK.