Another Difficult Shot

DrCue'sProtege · Nov 15, 2018

I was breaking some racks again this morning since we had an ice/sleet storm come through last night and this morning. Nothing else to do so I headed downstairs to the table.

On this shot, since there is so much distance between the CB and the 1B and a somewhat thin hit, you really have to put some oomph, hit it hard, to keep the low left in effect at contact or else you wont get position on the 2B. So I hit it twice, both times I hit it too hard, and ended up where the gray and red CBs are in the diagram.

How do you instructors/posters handle this shot. Due to the distance you have to hit it hard so the effects of the low/left will still be in play at contact. But since you have to hit it hard it seems to me like you will overrun your target area.

Thoughts?

r/DCP

https://pad-v1.chalkysticks.com/33ca0.png

Bob Jewett · Nov 15, 2018

DrCue'sProtege said:
... Thoughts?...

Shoot it softer with more draw. Alternatively, you could play that with inside.

It would help if you posted a picture rather than a link. Here is such a picture. It can be made easily with many different screen-capture tools. I use a free one called "Cropper".

DrCue'sProtege · Nov 15, 2018

Bob Jewett said:
Shoot it softer with more draw. Alternatively, you could play that with inside.

Bob,
If you hit it softer you lose the effect of the low English and therefore you wont come around for position. That's my whole point. You have to hit it hard enough so when contact is made you maintain the effects of the low or low/left. And since you have to hit it hard enough you then overrun your position.

r/DCP

FranCrimi · Nov 15, 2018

You guys need to learn the art of the kill shot. It's a great way of slowing down the cue ball and it's a necessity if you want to advance your game.

BilliardsAbout · Nov 16, 2018

Your choice of shape zone/landing area is quite small. I'm not going to give "the answer" but I would start by considering banking the two or playing safe. I would want to explore the options before returning to that shape on the two again.

bbb · Nov 16, 2018

..............................

Tony_in_MD · Nov 16, 2018

I play it with soft with low left spin because my table fairly quick with simonis 760. The low helps me hit the bottom rail at a 45 degree angle and the left spin carries the cueball to the target zone which is center table even with a soft shot.

DrCue'sProtege · Nov 16, 2018

Tony_in_MD said:
I play it with soft with low left spin because my table fairly quick with simonis 760. The low helps me hit the bottom rail at a 45 degree angle and the left spin carries the cueball to the target zone which is center table even with a soft shot.

This is my whole point. Its a fairly long ways from the CB to the 1B. Hitting it soft means you lose the effect of the low by the time the CB contacts the 1B.

You HAVE to hit it hard enough for the effects of the low English to come into play.

r/DCP

bbb · Nov 16, 2018

if the hit is thin enough you could play follow with a" touch of inside"

for draw
re read frans post about "kill" shot
yes you have to hit it firm not hard to have spin on it when you contact the object ball and have enough left over to go the distance required
but how fast the cue ball is rolling at contact is under your control
ie lets say a 4-5 speed is needed to have spin on contact with object ball and go to landing zone
but you are hitting it with 7 speed
you need to be able to hit it with the correct speed
also using only draw with no spin to get the angle out of the corner will "kill " some distance off the rails
jmho
icbw

Tony_in_MD · Nov 16, 2018

If you don't hit the CB low enough, you will lose the spin when hitting it slow. How low are you hitting the CB?

DrCue'sProtege said:
This is my whole point. Its a fairly long ways from the CB to the 1B. Hitting it soft means you lose the effect of the low by the time the CB contacts the 1B.

You HAVE to hit it hard enough for the effects of the low English to come into play.

r/DCP

philly · Nov 16, 2018

Tony_in_MD said:
I play it with soft with low left spin because my table fairly quick with simonis 760. The low helps me hit the bottom rail at a 45 degree angle and the left spin carries the cueball to the target zone which is center table even with a soft shot.

Not an instructor but this is my choice and if you have enough low left you can hit it pretty softly and your spin will get the CB there. Watch the side pocket below the 2.

Patrick Johnson · Nov 16, 2018

Tony_in_MD said:
I play it with soft with low left spin because my table fairly quick with simonis 760. The low helps me hit the bottom rail at a 45 degree angle and the left spin carries the cueball to the target zone which is center table even with a soft shot.

And hitting it low slows the CB but not the spin, so you get a "juiced" amount of spin-to-speed, which also helps. Of course, it also "juices" the swerve, so you gotta practice it.

pj
chgo

skipbales · Nov 22, 2018

DrCue'sProtege said:
I was breaking some racks again this morning since we had an ice/sleet storm come through last night and this morning. Nothing else to do so I headed downstairs to the table.

On this shot, since there is so much distance between the CB and the 1B and a somewhat thin hit, you really have to put some oomph, hit it hard, to keep the low left in effect at contact or else you wont get position on the 2B. So I hit it twice, both times I hit it too hard, and ended up where the gray and red CBs are in the diagram.

How do you instructors/posters handle this shot. Due to the distance you have to hit it hard so the effects of the low/left will still be in play at contact. But since you have to hit it hard it seems to me like you will overrun your target area.

Thoughts?

r/DCP

https://pad-v1.chalkysticks.com/33ca0.png

The diagram you show doesn't indicate any draw at all. The rebound looks to be a pure 90 degree stun line. Draw wears off but left and right not so much. Smarter people than I can correct me but I say more left, less worry about the draw wearing off and you won't have to hit so hard.

measureman · Nov 22, 2018

FranCrimi said:
You guys need to learn the art of the kill shot. It's a great way of slowing down the cue ball and it's a necessity if you want to advance your game.

Yup
Low left skid shot.
That's how I would do it.

iusedtoberich · Nov 22, 2018

Did we have a wwyd with this type of 2 rail angle before? It looks familiar. I’d like to try it but my table is full of clothes in boxes on the cloth

Maybe next week.

FranCrimi · Nov 22, 2018

measureman said:
Yup
Low left skid shot.
That's how I would do it.

Tap tap tap

Bob Jewett · Nov 22, 2018

I went to a table and tried it. I had good success with plain draw. Unfortunately this shot depends a lot on the equipment and if you have sticky cloth it will be hard to have any draw when you get to the object ball without shooting too hard.

On good cloth it is possible to also shoot this shot with some left or right side spin, but I'd suggest starting with no side spin and just draw.

sparkle84 · Nov 28, 2018

It would be helpful to know what kind of table, cloth, cueball,etc. you are playing on.
Makes a difference in what you might want to do.
As to the shot, regardless of equipment, you keep touching upon the fact that you have to hit it hard to maintain the draw effect. If you have a good stroke there isn't much problem executing this shot at a softer speed.

Imac007 · Nov 29, 2018

Check out Ralph Eckert’s reference line 2 on YouTube

A plain ball shot would return to near the original cue ball location. The shot on the 2 would be longer but an across and back stun shot on the 2 gets you to the 3. Speed is easier to control without english and so is the pot. Off the contact the cue ball gets some naturally acquired outside english which widens the angle off the next two rails.

skipbales · Nov 30, 2018

Imac007 said:
A plain ball shot would return to near the original cue ball location. The shot on the 2 would be longer but an across and back stun shot on the 2 gets you to the 3. Speed is easier to control without english and so is the pot. Off the contact the cue ball gets some naturally acquired outside english which widens the angle off the next two rails.

By "plain ball" I am guessing you mean a ball arriving with a naturally rolling cue ball, regardless of how it started. So a center ball, slightly above, or even a low hit drag shot, just don't hit hard enough to preserve any back spin or slide.

This would be an easier shot to control but as you mention leave a little harder next shot. This is a shot maker's approach. You sound like a snooker player. :smile: The problem with this is the across and back shot for the 3. That is pretty much what he is struggling with on the first shot, a controlled stun shot.

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