Floor covering for basement
- Thread starter nibrobus
- Start date
Sweet set up. I'm thinking of covering my one concrete foundation wall with reclaimed wood as well. Your room looks great, my hat's off to you.
I like your outcome, I'm going similar as well, but no stain. Cheers.
Forgot to check earlier. 35 inches above the playing surface.
WPA says it should be much higher and I suppose I could raise it if I used different bulbs but it works fine and its pretty rare for someone to whack it by coming p out of an awkward shot too fast. If it was a Diamond style or other light almost as big as the table and possible to bang a head on it, I could understand the WPA guidance.
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nibrobus...Something nobody has mentioned are the plastic interlocking tiles available from Costco. Thay are attractive (come in 2-3 colors), extremely durable, and keep the balls from hitting the concrete floor. I think they are less expensive than some of the earlier suggestions. Check Costco online for this great product! You can also PM Lance Cowles (Bossman69 on here). He has them installed in his 4 table room, and I think he said it was around $2K.
Scott Lee
2019 PBIA Instructor of the Year
Director, SPF National Pool School Tour
Scott Lee
2019 PBIA Instructor of the Year
Director, SPF National Pool School Tour
I've done and was always told, the bottom of the bulb should be 36'' from the play surface.
I think it really depends on the light style. A big light at that height would be a head banger. WPA actually says 65 inches or 40 minimum if it is "moveable by a referee". I suspect most of these rules were invented a few years after Edison invented the bulb and haven't been revisited since.
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I went with peel and stick 24" x 24" remnant carpet tiles from Home Depot for my garage.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kaleido...-Carpet-Tile-12-Tiles-Case-4UF12BOX/205469710
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kaleido...-Carpet-Tile-12-Tiles-Case-4UF12BOX/205469710
Tyrock is the best for an underlayment / subfloor.
100% water proof.
I put that down (after some self leveling) that my floor needed.
You can put carpet, or laminate on top of the Tyrock.
*I took out lally columns and did a whole lot more lol
ALL worth it! 9' Diamond. Zero obstructions.
Bar and small "home theater" too.
100% water proof.
I put that down (after some self leveling) that my floor needed.
You can put carpet, or laminate on top of the Tyrock.
*I took out lally columns and did a whole lot more lol
ALL worth it! 9' Diamond. Zero obstructions.
Bar and small "home theater" too.
That's why I said Bulb.
Lights with shades were always right above the table, due to the fixtures used in the past.
The nice thing about the 36'' is this. If your watching play when your seated at a normal stool height, there is NO glare in your eyes. Anytime a fixture is high, this should be a concern, ESPECIALLY in a commercial billiard room. You don't need to create a reason for your patrons to have their eyes blinded and causing them to leave sooner.
Nowadays your choices are unlimited, but keep in mind, early nineties Diamond made these HUGE table light fixtures about 4X8 outside dimensions and hung em above the tables, great lighting, but at Pheasant Run early 90's, Archer was Unable to shoot a masse' shot due to light fixture interference, too low, was probably 50'' above the table, but when your butts on the top rail, and your 58'' cue is vertical, it's in the way. He actually had someone take a cue stick and move it inward for him to do the shot.
Yes, I made that point earlier in the thread.
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Sorry didn't read all the posts. I think, like yourself only the table should have light, not the surrounding area at all. Like that one pick, with the blue light fixture....all the walls are lit up, and if a ball hits/bounces on THAT floor, it will hit a brick wall and ruin the ball. But different strokes for diff. folks.:thumbup:
The pic was taken with all lights on so you can see the custom Gold Crown I light I made and to give the OP a clear view of the flooring. During play, only the table light is on. The “brick” on the wall is peel and stick wallpaper applied to 1” rigid foam insulation.
Got it!.................:thumbup:
lgherb
Registered
We are in the process of finishing our basement and the floor is stained and waxed concrete. The product we used is called Kemiko stain and the results are pretty good.
I'm in the process of restoring a Gold Crown II (1974) and I will put a section of bound low pile carpet beneath the table. But the rest of the basement floor is stained and waxed concrete.
The stain is acid based and it is a process that takes a few days due to the drying times between cleaning, staining, cleaning the stain residue up, then waxing once everything is dry.
This is concrete that was stained and waxed 10 years ago. I'm going to run a sander over the concrete, add another coat of stain, and re-wax everything before re-assembling the table (some cabinets are also coming in, etc.). As mentioned earlier, the rug beneath the table will be replaced.
The light is pretty bright in this pic and does not do justice to the floor's finish
I'm in the process of restoring a Gold Crown II (1974) and I will put a section of bound low pile carpet beneath the table. But the rest of the basement floor is stained and waxed concrete.
The stain is acid based and it is a process that takes a few days due to the drying times between cleaning, staining, cleaning the stain residue up, then waxing once everything is dry.
This is concrete that was stained and waxed 10 years ago. I'm going to run a sander over the concrete, add another coat of stain, and re-wax everything before re-assembling the table (some cabinets are also coming in, etc.). As mentioned earlier, the rug beneath the table will be replaced.
The light is pretty bright in this pic and does not do justice to the floor's finish
raymondburke
New member
Hi,I did mine in 2 phases and 2 ends of the cost spectrum.
To just get a table in the basement I looked at whatever carpet Home Depot had in an 18 ft wide roll and bought 30 feet of it and the same amount of their cheapest pad.
Once I was ready to spend real money I used engineered wood but got a thick and wide variety that had a bit of a built in moisture protection layer on the bottom. I glued it right to the bare concrete but used a very specific mastic adhesive that is adhesive/moisture barrier/leveling compound in one. I put it down with a notched trowel like you would lay tile. Keep in mind I had 10 years of mot having any moisture plus did several tests where you tape plastic down in one square foot areas to check moisture.
I did wood only after knowing it was dry. Kitchen, bar, bathroom and walk out areas are ceranic tile but about 1200 square ft is the wood.
I just don't care for carpet in general but if I did I'd use a fairly dark commercial carpet.
The table light never really moved acid stain phoenix.
Sent from the future.
Looking for some ideas for a basement floor in my new (to me) house. I have a walkout basement that if I want to avoid messing with repositioning the outer doors has a hard limit of 2” exactly for the entire flooring system I could install. Complicating things even further, there is a wood stove in one corner...
Looking for some options?
Thanks
fattirewilly
Member
"Looking for some ideas for a basement floor in my new (to me) house. I have a walkout basement that if I want to avoid messing with repositioning the outer doors has a hard limit of 2” exactly for the entire flooring system I could install. Complicating things even further, there is a wood stove in one corner..."
Why not do a slate floor under the stove? It seems only appropriate in a pool room.
I used a low height glue down commercial carpet in my basement after having confirmed it stays dry. It's sorta burgundy and gold, doesn't show much dirt or wear. Only two issues in 15+ years is the hot water heater that leaked and dehumidifier that overflowed. Both issues made a soggy mess for about 100 SF before we caught it. In both cases, my shop vac came in super handy. Then we put a few box fans on hi and the dehumidifier took care of the rest.
At the end of the day, you should anticipate some type of water issue, use a material that will hold up, and be prepared to handle an issue if it pops up.
I have a concrete floor in my basement in my pool table room. A few times a year I clean the floor real well and spread liquid wax all over. People tell me it looks great (shiny but not too shiny) and it's cheap and easy to care for.