I've heard of these types of shafts from different cue makers, just wondering if these shafts play similiar or are they worlds apart from each other. Which one is best and why?
Old growth ring shaft or Sunken wood shaft??
- Thread starter Onepocketking1
- Start date
tone
i get most of my shafts from older one piece house cues, some have had many hours of play, kinda neat building a new shaft knowing it might have been in a pool hall for years.
i personally like the darker shafts that have high ring count. but it turns out the best in my opinion are the ones that have the higher tonal quality. i have about 80 - 90 shafts hanging waiting to be used and you can play them, almost like an musical instrument, if you take a solid piece of wood and tap them on the side you can hear the ones that have the higher pitch. [ some drop them end first on concret ]
so my best shafts are, old wood, high ring count and higher tone, stiff taper, no ferrule.
jmo
chuck starkey
i get most of my shafts from older one piece house cues, some have had many hours of play, kinda neat building a new shaft knowing it might have been in a pool hall for years.
i personally like the darker shafts that have high ring count. but it turns out the best in my opinion are the ones that have the higher tonal quality. i have about 80 - 90 shafts hanging waiting to be used and you can play them, almost like an musical instrument, if you take a solid piece of wood and tap them on the side you can hear the ones that have the higher pitch. [ some drop them end first on concret ]
so my best shafts are, old wood, high ring count and higher tone, stiff taper, no ferrule.
jmo
chuck starkey
The answer to the question you asked is the old growth shafts play similarly to new shafts and I've done hundreds of the OG and thousands of the new.
You will probably get the best answer to this question on the ask the cuemaker forum.
As I read my post, I see Mr Dayton has posted...there's your answer from someone who knows.
My understanding is that they are distinctly different. One (lakewood) has been under the compression of water for many years. the wood is "dead" and will provide the hardest most dense form of maple shaft wood.
The old growth tends to be very dense but still lively and thus superior. This is how it was explained to me. The tight growth lines are prized and also tend to be heavier, allowing balance and taper dimensions to work well together.
The old shaft wood makes a better sound and tends to be darker in appearance thyan less dense typical shaft wood in my experience. This isn't always the case and is not necessarily an indication of better wood.
Lastly, remember that the way the shaft is consructed, and whether or not it is treated with a stabilizer as it is turned, will have more of an effect on the end product than the grain of the wood itself. Ferrule material, construction and tip have a huge impact. So does taper and diameter. Even end finish/sealant has a huge effect on the shaft "feel".
So you can probably be happy with either type of wood, you can surely play well with either, but the task is to find your own preference. Mine is old growth...not submerged.
As I read my post, I see Mr Dayton has posted...there's your answer from someone who knows.
My understanding is that they are distinctly different. One (lakewood) has been under the compression of water for many years. the wood is "dead" and will provide the hardest most dense form of maple shaft wood.
The old growth tends to be very dense but still lively and thus superior. This is how it was explained to me. The tight growth lines are prized and also tend to be heavier, allowing balance and taper dimensions to work well together.
The old shaft wood makes a better sound and tends to be darker in appearance thyan less dense typical shaft wood in my experience. This isn't always the case and is not necessarily an indication of better wood.
Lastly, remember that the way the shaft is consructed, and whether or not it is treated with a stabilizer as it is turned, will have more of an effect on the end product than the grain of the wood itself. Ferrule material, construction and tip have a huge impact. So does taper and diameter. Even end finish/sealant has a huge effect on the shaft "feel".
So you can probably be happy with either type of wood, you can surely play well with either, but the task is to find your own preference. Mine is old growth...not submerged.
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Call Guido Orlandi... he sells em, with your specs... some have upwards of 45 Rings per inch
There aren't millions left, maybe only a few thousand
Call Guido, he can explain everything about the rings per inch, the tonal quality, weight, centroid consistency & so on.
Guido 906-542-7069
There aren't millions left, maybe only a few thousand
Call Guido, he can explain everything about the rings per inch, the tonal quality, weight, centroid consistency & so on.
Guido 906-542-7069
Ask for A Sheldon Ledow- underwaterwood shaft
I have 2 underwaterwood-and a of a few Szamboti, SW. The underwater wood are stiffer and extended length. and I love them!!!!! There is high tone (underwaterwood- I am having a birdseye underwaterwood made too. I have long tapers on both
I have 2 underwaterwood-and a of a few Szamboti, SW. The underwater wood are stiffer and extended length. and I love them!!!!! There is high tone (underwaterwood- I am having a birdseye underwaterwood made too. I have long tapers on both