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eihi
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09-23-2017, 11:01 AM

I would guess it was probably sanded as well, but I know my grandpa had a cue like that which wasn't sanded at all. He said it was a double taper. I looked on the ole internet and found this

"Besides a "gradual taper", our first kind of taper, or our second, delayed for a foot from the front of the cuestick, a third type of shaft has a "double" taper. These shafts narrow at first, starting a few inches behind the tip, then widen again, making the shaft thinnest near its middle.

The expert, who often uses a double taper, has the touch required for the most demanding shots. A light, thin shaft is helpful for delicate moves through the stroke. The actual weight of the shaft is changed.

The additional lathe work needed for a second taper may raise a cue's price. Novices should have no concerns about this type of ​shaft, if they choose to spend the extra money to buy one."


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whammo57
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09-23-2017, 12:19 PM

I have seen several players that have a habit of rubbing their shaft with a scotch brite or a steel wool pad after every turn at the table............. their shafts do get "hourglassed" after a time............... they also get out of round............ I have made new shafts for 2 of these people and made them stop that habit.............. the rest are incouragable ........ LOL


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captainjko
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09-23-2017, 06:46 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by str8eight View Post
Hard to believe someone sanded nearly .020 to clean a shaft.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
I was not saying "someone sanded .020 off to clean the shaft" in one cleaning.... I was saying that this happened over time.... Scotch pad is usually the culprit in this situation... Shaft feels a little sticky...... Whip out out the scotch pad.... Sand sand sand.... Now its better... Until next time....... Over several months or years, this is what you are left with....


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09-25-2017, 08:47 PM

Completely agree with captainjko. I used to use a green scotch brite pad before I knew any better, thinking it was better than sandpaper. Usually very lightly, but if sticky sometimes firmer. Over a year or two I created a hourglass shape in my shaft about the same - 12.4 at the tip, 12.2 a little farther down, then back to normal and okay from there. Shaft still played fine but could cause some wall thinness issues with certain types of hollow LD shafts. But you'll know when that happens.

Can avoid this by sanding on one direction only and not double dipping when you change direction by the ferrule / tip. Or better yet, do what I do now and not use anything abrasive on the shaft...

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jimmyco
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09-26-2017, 06:13 PM

Thank you all for responding.


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