Will this work?

billsey

Registered
I've got a junker cue I'm using to learn my way around on the Mid Size Cue Lathe from Chris Hightower. I sanded the finish off (splotchy brown stain, looks like they used a sponge to make it look exotic) and found some OK birdseye maple underneath. It's a wrapless cue and I'd like to put an Irish linen wrap on:

That means cutting 0.025 off along the taper over a foot or so (is that length right, or should it be shorter or longer on a standard size cue?) to allow room for the thread. I don't have any tapering tools, unless there's something I don't realize about what I do have. :) I measure about 1/8 inch difference between the start and the end of the wrap area. I recognize I need to actually taper by 0.0625 instead of 0.125 because I'm cutting both sides at once. Can I do marks on the surface every (12 / 62.5 = 0.192) ~2/10 inch and cut in to the 0.025 depth between marks, then move 0.001 in or out depending on my direction, then cut another 2/10 inch across?

I believe that gives me a stair step that sort of matches the taper, and some cleanup with sandpaper (maybe I should cut less than 0.025 to allow for sanding?) should help smooth it enough that you wouldn't feel it on the final product. I've got the linen and the foot speed controller so I think I can do the wrap OK. I'm building myself a linen press using three skateboard wheels and some scrap. I've got an iron and can pick up starch easily enough. What am I forgetting?

Bill
 

jokers_wild96

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If your pin has a center hole you can off set your tail stock to cut straight along the cue with out having to step cut or whatever it is your working out. That would make things easier. You still have to figure out your off sets to get it right. Hope that helps a bit.
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Get a 30" rod with center holes .
Measure the joint diameter and the bottom diameter of the cue .
If it's .400 difference , offset the tail stock .200 or a little less.
It does not hurt to keep the handle taper a little more gradual and just sand it with 6" wide 220 grit.
The key is cutting the shoulders square at around .020" deep.

You will need a nice pointy insert for that.
 

billsey

Registered
OK, I can cut a centered hole in the back with the way I've got it on the lathe right now. The steady rest its in doesn't do offset, but I bet with a little ingenuity I can figure out a way to put a live center on that I can offset. That seems much easier than what I was thinking. Wouldn't the offset cause weird strains where it chucked up though, since it's be rotating at an angle to the rest of the lathe? Or is there enough slop in a chuck to deal with that?
 

SpiderWeb

iisgone@yahoo.com
Silver Member
If the cue has any wobble you will have problems. You have a big job and I want to see a finished product.
 

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I don't know your equipment but it has to be between centers at both ends. Dog or spur driver at the headstock end. You are correct to be concerned. & with offsets, maybe the centers should be balls or ball ended. But i don't know if cue makers do any such thing.

If it is not put between centers & instead you just try to chuck one end, it is asking to have it come out with a *bow. Even between centers, there is some agitating going on when offset that is trying to wear the center holes at each end. Possibly you will have a metal/accurate work mandrel screwed on the pin end, that has its own center?

*you might think it would not matter, but the chuck fighting the offset TS causes the butt to bow at rest. When running, the bow will run around the stick and bve sort of balanced or diminish. But it will still tend to maintain in the weakest direction. after turning, it will spring the other way and the stick will have a bow.

smt
 

Keith E.

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've got a junker cue I'm using to learn my way around on the Mid Size Cue Lathe from Chris Hightower. I sanded the finish off (splotchy brown stain, looks like they used a sponge to make it look exotic) and found some OK birdseye maple underneath. It's a wrapless cue and I'd like to put an Irish linen wrap on:

That means cutting 0.025 off along the taper over a foot or so (is that length right, or should it be shorter or longer on a standard size cue?) to allow room for the thread. I don't have any tapering tools, unless there's something I don't realize about what I do have. :) I measure about 1/8 inch difference between the start and the end of the wrap area. I recognize I need to actually taper by 0.0625 instead of 0.125 because I'm cutting both sides at once. Can I do marks on the surface every (12 / 62.5 = 0.192) ~2/10 inch and cut in to the 0.025 depth between marks, then move 0.001 in or out depending on my direction, then cut another 2/10 inch across?

I believe that gives me a stair step that sort of matches the taper, and some cleanup with sandpaper (maybe I should cut less than 0.025 to allow for sanding?) should help smooth it enough that you wouldn't feel it on the final product. I've got the linen and the foot speed controller so I think I can do the wrap OK. I'm building myself a linen press using three skateboard wheels and some scrap. I've got an iron and can pick up starch easily enough. What am I forgetting?

Bill

The maker of your lathe also has informative books and DVDs for sale. Best of luck with your project(s).

Keith
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
You need a lathe insert to go on the joint, or make one out of wood or plastic. Then you need a live center for the tailstock. Next you need a spur driver or dead center to hold the cue between centers. Off set the tailstock until you have the cue on the exact angle it was originally cut on. Now comes the dangerous part. Cutting without a router gives a lot of vibration and can gouge the cue. Try experimental cuts in the middle of the cue until you are getting nice clean cuts before attempting the two finished ends of the wrap groove. If you are not happy with the results you can put the tailstock back on center. Chuck up right near where the wrap would start and use your coss slide dial to hand blend the first inch at each end with your super sharp tool bit. That eliminates the vibration. Then get some heavy sand paper and take the rest of the wrap groove down by hand. That also eliminates you having to offset the tailstock or the need for a spur driver.
 
Top