Of course it does draw but not like so many others I play on.
It has always been hard to draw on my 88" Beach table. Not just for me, hard for everyone who plays on it. I had Simonis 860 cloth and switched to Simonis 760 thinking the extra nylon would cause it to be more "slippery". The cloth looks exactly like what I replaced. It has no sheen as I expected the 760 to have. I felt like the supplier had some tan 860 in stock and assumed I would not know the difference so shipped me 860. There was nothing to sow it was 760 or even Simonis except the invoice and a Simonis Spot Marker. It may well be I don't know the difference but there does not seem to actually be any difference.
The cloth is "relatively tight". As tight as we could stretch it. I also steam clean it so that should keep it pretty tight, assuming the wool would shrink a little. Maybe we were just not able to stretch it correctly to begin with.
I understand draw is technique but I am the same player on other tables and the cue ball comes flying back at me. I hit a full table stop shot and the ball unexpectedly backs back two feet.
There are some full table down and back drills which are almost impossible on my table. With a perfect hit it can be done but not reliably.
Anyway the ball set came with the table and I have no clue what they are. I am using a 3 red dot Arimith cue ball but the rest are whatever they are. I am considering buying a new set of Arimith balls to see if that matters.
My questions are about which mechanical factors affect draw the most:
1. Table construction or quality of the slate - not much I can do there
2. Cloth
3. Cloth installation
4. Cue ball
5. Ball set
I might get a new set of balls just for the sake of quality, even if they would not change the draw response. If so what set would you recommend?
It has always been hard to draw on my 88" Beach table. Not just for me, hard for everyone who plays on it. I had Simonis 860 cloth and switched to Simonis 760 thinking the extra nylon would cause it to be more "slippery". The cloth looks exactly like what I replaced. It has no sheen as I expected the 760 to have. I felt like the supplier had some tan 860 in stock and assumed I would not know the difference so shipped me 860. There was nothing to sow it was 760 or even Simonis except the invoice and a Simonis Spot Marker. It may well be I don't know the difference but there does not seem to actually be any difference.
The cloth is "relatively tight". As tight as we could stretch it. I also steam clean it so that should keep it pretty tight, assuming the wool would shrink a little. Maybe we were just not able to stretch it correctly to begin with.
I understand draw is technique but I am the same player on other tables and the cue ball comes flying back at me. I hit a full table stop shot and the ball unexpectedly backs back two feet.
There are some full table down and back drills which are almost impossible on my table. With a perfect hit it can be done but not reliably.
Anyway the ball set came with the table and I have no clue what they are. I am using a 3 red dot Arimith cue ball but the rest are whatever they are. I am considering buying a new set of Arimith balls to see if that matters.
My questions are about which mechanical factors affect draw the most:
1. Table construction or quality of the slate - not much I can do there
2. Cloth
3. Cloth installation
4. Cue ball
5. Ball set
I might get a new set of balls just for the sake of quality, even if they would not change the draw response. If so what set would you recommend?