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08-31-2016, 07:25 AM

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But a shite attitude (he does make a decent g&t though)
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08-31-2016, 10:40 AM

After reading through this thread I have a question.

Whats the difference between shims and pocket facings?

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09-01-2016, 05:22 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrCue'sProtege View Post
After reading through this thread I have a question.

Whats the difference between shims and pocket facings?

r/DCP
Well? Anybody?

What is the difference between shims and pocket facings?


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09-01-2016, 05:30 PM

Nothing. They are the same thing.

When you stack pocket facings on top of each other to change the pocket opening it is called shimming, and most folks say it is done with shims, even though you are using pocket facings.

Confusing isn't it.


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09-01-2016, 05:31 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrCue'sProtege View Post
Well? Anybody?

What is the difference between shims and pocket facings?
They're the same thing, when someone refers to pockets being triple shimmer, that just means 3 facings have been inserted on both sides of the corner pockets. Sub rail extensions is just exactly what it implies....extending the sub rail with the same type material the sub rail is made from....wood, in which after having done so there's one ONE facing material applied to the end of the rail.....one facing not thicker than 1/4"
  
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09-01-2016, 05:32 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony_in_MD View Post
Nothing. They are the same thing.

When you stack pocket facings on top of each other to change the pocket opening it is called shimming, and most folks say it is done with shims, even though you are using pocket facings.

Confusing isn't it.
Beat me to it buddy
  
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09-01-2016, 06:50 PM

I had a sub - rail extension done on my GC IV. The corners are 4 - 3/8. I love 'em - although I sometimes think MAYBE I should have made them 4 - 1/2. I KNOW I'd not be a happy camper if they were 4 - 1/4!


.........but oh - OH....those su - UMMER.......nigh - IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHTS...........❤️
  
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09-01-2016, 07:44 PM

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Originally Posted by His Boy Elroy View Post
I had a sub - rail extension done on my GC IV. The corners are 4 - 3/8. I love 'em - although I sometimes think MAYBE I should have made them 4 - 1/2. I KNOW I'd not be a happy camper if they were 4 - 1/4!
But here's the real question for you, did you have the inconsistent pocket miter angles corrected when you had that done or did you just extend the angles that were already cut to begin with?
  
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09-01-2016, 07:52 PM

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Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
But here's the real question for you, did you have the inconsistent pocket miter angles corrected when you had that done or did you just extend the angles that were already cut to begin with?
RKC,,,,you really need to make sets of these and sell them to billiard mechanics.....
...4.5 inch corners and appropriate side dimensions.

To be world legal at snooker, this template has to fit....

Name:  image.jpeg
Views: 272
Size:  22.8 KB


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09-02-2016, 05:02 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
But here's the real question for you, did you have the inconsistent pocket miter angles corrected when you had that done or did you just extend the angles that were already cut to begin with?


This was an eye opening when RKC redid my table. Every pocket was different which is why the pockets played inconsistently and this was the work done by Brunswick at the factory.

So much for qc by Brunswick.


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09-02-2016, 07:20 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by pt109 View Post
RKC,,,,you really need to make sets of these and sell them to billiard mechanics.....
...4.5 inch corners and appropriate side dimensions.

To be world legal at snooker, this template has to fit....

Attachment 432899
Actually....I do have a pocket gage I invented that when placed in the corner pockets and lined up in the feather strip Dado it point blank shows you where the sub rails need to end and the miter angles as well for any size pocket I want.... symmetrically centered. Diamond has copied it and made 3 pocket gages of their own as to be able to check their own work.....after they got a suprise using mine....but I'm not selling it
  
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09-02-2016, 07:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
Actually....I do have a pocket gage I invented that when placed in the corner pockets and lined up in the feather strip Dado it point blank shows you where the sub rails need to end and the miter angles as well for any size pocket I want.... symmetrically centered. Diamond has copied it and made 3 pocket gages of their own as to be able to check their own work.....after they got a suprise using mine....but I'm not selling it
Well, you never come to Canada.....we could use some of your expertise.
.....a set of your gauges would be great.

A family I was fond of got into making tables....using a cue, I showed them how the jaws
of the corner pockets lined up differently.....some to one diamond from the side pocket...
....some lined up to the middle diamond.

I have also played on tables where the contact point on the rails were too low.
....Pro Line was one of them.....I hit a long straight back at a good speed...
...needed a search party to find the object ball...low rail sent it air-borne.

Because of you, I also became more aware of the angle of the jaw from the top to the
slate.
I played on a triple-shimmed table once, I powered a frozen ball down the long rail...
...that shot was in on a snooker table...
....the ball hit the far jaw and went straight up.

The pool world needs those templates


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His Boy Elroy
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09-02-2016, 09:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
But here's the real question for you, did you have the inconsistent pocket miter angles corrected when you had that done or did you just extend the angles that were already cut to begin with?
I bought a used Gold Crown IV. The pockets were whatever size the factory makes them. (5 - 1/8 ?) I knew I wanted them tighter than that. I had the table delivered, and they left iit un - assembled on the basement floor. I live in Chicago. I called Jerimy Chambers. He came over to the house. We decided to do a sub - rail extension. I told him I wanted it "Diamondized" the best he could. ( I'd been reading your posts about the process and results) He said he knew how to do that.

I was going to go with 4 - 1/2; but, after learning from Jerimy that the extension would shorten the shelf a bit, I decided on 4 - 3/8. It sounded good to Jerimy, He took the rails back to the shop with him. It took him a bit longer than I expected to get them back to me. He explained that he had a back log of rails that had been mailed to him that he had to finish first.

Anyhow; Jerimy came back with the rails, set up the table, AND IT WAS WELL WORTH THE WAIT. As I said, I love 'em. Sometimes I think the pockets are a TAD to tight......but, just a TAD. I'd like to play on one of his tables with 4 - 1/2's just to see what they're like. I really suspect though, that no one has better pockets than I have.

The only reason I originally posted was to discourage the OP from making his pockets 4 - 1/4. I know there are some who want to make things more challenging on their home tables - the thinking being they will, therefore, perform better on the looser tables at the pool room. If that's the OP's motivation, I won't tell him he's wrong; but, If the O.P. wants a "Fair" table, I just can't see going tighter than my 4 - 3/8's.


.........but oh - OH....those su - UMMER.......nigh - IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHTS...........❤️

Last edited by His Boy Elroy; 09-02-2016 at 09:28 AM.
  
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09-02-2016, 09:35 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
Actually....I do have a pocket gage I invented that when placed in the corner pockets and lined up in the feather strip Dado it point blank shows you where the sub rails need to end and the miter angles as well for any size pocket I want.... symmetrically centered. Diamond has copied it and made 3 pocket gages of their own as to be able to check their own work.....after they got a suprise using mine....but I'm not selling it:thumbup:
Serious, but curious, question. Why not sell them? It is obvious you care about quality work on pool tables and that you cannot do all of the ones people would like you to do. It is also obvious that you are basically a helpful person who does not mind exposing hacks but who has also devoted significant effort in educating mechanics who want to be better through your videos. Selling your gauge/template would help identify hacks and would help the good guys do a better job. And make you a few bucks. What is the down side, other than exclusivity?
  
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realkingcobra
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09-02-2016, 03:54 PM

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Originally Posted by KissedOut View Post
Serious, but curious, question. Why not sell them? It is obvious you care about quality work on pool tables and that you cannot do all of the ones people would like you to do. It is also obvious that you are basically a helpful person who does not mind exposing hacks but who has also devoted significant effort in educating mechanics who want to be better through your videos. Selling your gauge/template would help identify hacks and would help the good guys do a better job. And make you a few bucks. What is the down side, other than exclusivity?
I just stopped to grab something to eat, I'm heading to Seattle on my motorcycle. Saw what you asked and don't have enough time to answer your question right now, but maybe later tonight I will, but I don't think you'll like my answer
  
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