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Denatured Alcohol on Pool Shafts?
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ChrisinNC
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Denatured Alcohol on Pool Shafts? - 08-08-2019, 09:53 AM

Instead of 1500 grit fine sandpaper, I've recently been using Renaissance wood wax, which was recommended on a thread here by a number of members, on my Mezz WX900 shafts. I've used the wax number of times and I've recently started to feel it wasn't working as well - as perhaps too much wax was building up on the shafts from doing this.

The other day I doused a little 95% natural denatured alcohol on a cloth and rubbed down the shaft with it - it evaporates virtually almost instantly. The shaft now feels considerably smoother. Just curious if anyone knows, is there any downside to applying denatured alcohol to a wood shaft on a regular basis to keep it slick?

I know from first hand experience to never again use the denatured alcohol on a magic eraser to clean off the high gloss finish on the butt of the cue - as it will permanently dull the high gloss finish, but I wasn't sure if there were any concerns I need to be aware of in using it on the shaft portion of the cue? Thanks

Last edited by ChrisinNC; 08-08-2019 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Add
  
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08-08-2019, 10:16 AM

It's ok on non-laminated shafts.
My sealer has 20% denatured alcohol to thin it out.


  
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08-08-2019, 10:19 AM

I don't know what finish is on the shaft, but there shouldn't be a problem.

Are you buffing the wax off? If you leave it on there without a good buffing then yeh, it's going to build up. Honestly, waxing is O.K. to fill in little micro crevices, but otherwise it's not needed. I use car buffing compounds when finishing poly on hard maples, but never wax on new finishes. On older finishes I simply buff more.

Ultimately, I personally feel you've sort of went backwards in your intentions on applying wax at all. I've never seen a use case where wax is just left on over time without some sort of friction removing it (unless it's for a cosmetic purpose where friction should never occur).
  
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08-08-2019, 10:41 AM

I've been using denatured alcohol on my shafts for years. I'm known to over do it when it comes to taking care of my things. If it had any bad effects, old shafts of mine would be destroyed by now, but that's not the case. Just like waxing a car, you want to give it a good cleaning first.
  
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08-08-2019, 11:15 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisinNC View Post
Instead of 1500 grit fine sandpaper,
1500? I have been using 2500 for years.


Don't believe everything you think.

  
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08-08-2019, 11:33 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cron View Post
I don't know what finish is on the shaft, but there shouldn't be a problem.

Are you buffing the wax off? If you leave it on there without a good buffing then yeh, it's going to build up. Honestly, waxing is O.K. to fill in little micro crevices, but otherwise it's not needed. I use car buffing compounds when finishing poly on hard maples, but never wax on new finishes. On older finishes I simply buff more.

Ultimately, I personally feel you've sort of went backwards in your intentions on applying wax at all. I've never seen a use case where wax is just left on over time without some sort of friction removing it (unless it's for a cosmetic purpose where friction should never occur).
When using the Renaissance wax, after applying a little bit of it evenly on the shaft with a cloth, after no more than 60 seconds, I vigorously wipe it down with a clean dry towel, so in that respect, the wax I'm applying is not hardening on the shaft before being buffed down. Thanks
  
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KenRobbins
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08-08-2019, 01:00 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisinNC View Post
When using the Renaissance wax, after applying a little bit of it evenly on the shaft with a cloth, after no more than 60 seconds, I vigorously wipe it down with a clean dry towel, so in that respect, the wax I'm applying is not hardening on the shaft before being buffed down. Thanks
My usual routine is cleaning the balls and shaft at the same time. lol

I don't soak a microfiber cloth with the denatured alcohol, just so it's a little damp, then clean the shaft. I let the shaft sit to make sure it's dried out before waxing, usually 10 to 15 minutes. I clean half of the balls at this time, usually run the bucket for 2 minutes then wipe each one down. Then I wax the shaft and let it sit until I'm done with the other half set of balls. After that I'll buff the shaft.
  
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08-08-2019, 01:08 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisinNC View Post
When using the Renaissance wax, after applying a little bit of it evenly on the shaft with a cloth, after no more than 60 seconds, I vigorously wipe it down with a clean dry towel, so in that respect, the wax I'm applying is not hardening on the shaft before being buffed down. Thanks
I wouldn't be surprised that you're either A. Removing all wax, or B. Not buffing enough. Here are some links describing the end effect you're experiencing (it's not visible to you as under this application).

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/26127
https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com...-over-shellac/

And this link describes popular alternatives, if you really want to use wax...

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/...1549070/page-2


Under no applicable circumstance do any of those links or any other piece of literature I've read would suggest using wax on an item that will have constant wear from friction (without continuous application). A pool shaft is non-stop, 24/7 rubbed down.

I'd find an actual woodworker somewhere and get a definitive answer. I only do odds and ends at leisure, but I've never heard of using wax for such a purpose which will be under constant friction. Well, not unless it is constantly removed requiring constant application (i.e. surfing). So the problem of having to continuously apply it isn't you're only problem, you also have the problem of having to make sure it is completely (or at least evenly) removed EVERY time.

Maybe get a glove :-).

Last edited by Cron; 08-08-2019 at 01:12 PM.
  
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08-08-2019, 01:20 PM

Guido Orlandi(sp) got me using the Denatured Alcohol about 10 years ago, maybe more. He told me to never use the regular isopropyl alcohol, due to it having too much water.
The denatured works as a cleaner, then you can apply the wax.
One thing I have changed over the years is that I don't use wax any longer.
I clean the shaft with a tissue and denatured alcohol. Then a put a couple drops of Cue Silk on another tissue. Rub it on - let it dry for a few minutes and buff it off.
Keeps the shaft slicker than snot



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08-08-2019, 01:38 PM

O.K., I've wasted a hour of my life reading about this :-), don't use any wax of any type. Now this will sound crazy, because it is, but use lithium grease (probably "cleaner") or non-detergent motor oil (assembly oil).

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...7?q=nd10&pos=0 (note: you have to ask for this at O'Reillys, they don't shelve it).

Good Luck!
  
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08-08-2019, 01:55 PM

What's an inexpensive source of denatured alcohol?
  
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08-08-2019, 01:59 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by tucson9ball View Post
Guido Orlandi(sp) got me using the Denatured Alcohol about 10 years ago, maybe more. He told me to never use the regular isopropyl alcohol, due to it having too much water.
The denatured works as a cleaner, then you can apply the wax.
One thing I have changed over the years is that I don't use wax any longer.
I clean the shaft with a tissue and denatured alcohol. Then a put a couple drops of Cue Silk on another tissue. Rub it on - let it dry for a few minutes and buff it off.
Keeps the shaft slicker than snot
I just learned something today. I never spent time studying the difference between denatured and isopropyl alcohol. I actually thought it was the same. I've been using the isopropyl alcohol all this time and still don't have any issues, but will get some of the denatured from now on. The isopropyl dries up so fast and cleans also, so never gave it much more thought than that.
  
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08-08-2019, 02:00 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cron View Post
O.K., I've wasted a hour of my life reading about this :-), don't use any wax of any type. Now this will sound crazy, because it is, but use lithium grease (probably "cleaner") or non-detergent motor oil (assembly oil).

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...7?q=nd10&pos=0 (note: you have to ask for this at O'Reillys, they don't shelve it).

Good Luck!
Soak your shaft in some motor oil for us and give us a review.
  
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08-08-2019, 02:02 PM

There's different strengths of rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol, most common from Walgreens is 70% (30% water) but you can find it up to 99%. I cringe when it's suggested to use water on wood, it gets in the cells and swells them, raised the grain and so on. Use a strong isopropyl, it'll dissolve most oils and wax and cleans well without effecting the wood. Be aware that alcohol dissolves shellac and a few other soft finishes.
  
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08-08-2019, 02:07 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnysd View Post
What's an inexpensive source of denatured alcohol?
Home Depot


  
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