Wax to seal a cue

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You lost me at bob claims


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To be honest, i only heard the shaft is full solid and when I hear that I assume this is from the manufacturers mouth and who other would say that then Bob M. himself..

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maha

from way back when
Silver Member
for 100 years no one put anything on their shafts and they worked perfectly.
trying to make a stick look new is a waste of time as it will never be new again and is a tool that if you mess it up wont work well.

no wax is going to be more slippery then a hard rubbed wood.

my take on it though.
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Renaissance wax works great, but that`s only one part of the equaition if your goal is to keep the shaft as clean as possible, how you clean and look after your shaft and how you chalk is equally important. Some new shafts are suprisingly rough right out of the box. My shafts are smooth as glass and stay that way for a long time if the customer dont mess them up with sandpaper or other nonsense.
 

Tom1234

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I too use Renaissance wax, just be careful as it dries pretty quickly and should be buffed as quickly as possible. However, let me put a plug in for a fellowAZer, Chris Hightower, as his cue wax is the best I've tried. I use a lathe to clean, seal and wax cues. Spinning the shaft seems to be the best way to keep your cues looking as new as possible. If you don't have one, the few dollars a qualified repairman charges to clean one is well worth it. JMO.
 

Tommy-D

World's best B player...
Silver Member
It's for this reason that the only guy locally that actually has a South West waited his 8 years and got it with both shafts completely clearcoated,and plays with a glove when he takes that cue out to play. Tommy D.
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
for 100 years no one put anything on their shafts and they worked perfectly.
trying to make a stick look new is a waste of time as it will never be new again and is a tool that if you mess it up wont work well.

no wax is going to be more slippery then a hard rubbed wood.

my take on it though.

Makes you about 120 years old.to make that statement .

Where you actual there 100 years ago ?


Total BS ,, a properly maintain shaft isn't as slick as a shaft that hasn't had the chalk removed from the wood pores cleaned, then sealed and waxed.


Been repairing cues for over a decade ,, I don't everything but know the difference between a shaft that's been maintained and one that hasn't .
There is no comparison …...
 

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
for 100 years no one put anything on their shafts and they worked perfectly.
trying to make a stick look new is a waste of time as it will never be new again and is a tool that if you mess it up wont work well.

no wax is going to be more slippery then a hard rubbed wood.

my take on it though.
It's not about keeping the stick smooth or slick, I use a glove. It's about keeping the cue shafts grain from getting blued from chalk and oils.

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GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Is Renaissance wax good for wood & metal? Is it liquid or paste?
 
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Ron Padilla

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Renaissance is a past that has a little bit of grit to it and can be used on both, I have read that a lot of gun collectors have used it on both wood and metal with great success!
 

angluse

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It's not about keeping the stick smooth or slick, I use a glove. It's about keeping the cue shafts grain from getting blued from chalk and oils.
I agree with KimBye, keep it smooth as possible, that's your best start. But from what I've seen, even a well-maintained shaft may show some marks, depending on how the pores in the maple are to begin with. For example, I have one Schon shaft that despite best efforts with my usual process of wipedown of shaft and tip before putting in case + regular burnish with leather + occasional clean with denatured alcohol, still it shows some marks, esp near the ferrule...whereas a shaft built from Muellers blank has stayed clean and new.
Generally I find that keeping smooth and burnish with leather (suede side), adding Renaissance or Meguiars Yellow paste or Q Wax doesn't seem to help much beyond that (of course the burnish would take it off, I mean wax alone without that step). I've heard that hand oils + leather is what makes the difference, you as a glove player, I don't know how much oil will pass through.
 

greyghost

Coast to Coast
Silver Member
You made me spew coffee on my key board brother

Definition of the truth is when the word and the deed become one ,
Anything less is a lie .

did i ever tell you his wife friended me on facebook, i immediately sent a bunch of meucci hackery photos and asked for a comment from the bob......im still holding my breath hahahahah:thumbup:
 
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