Where did you get your cutter? I need one like that!
Ferrule threaded on or no?
- Thread starter captainjko
- Start date
I wonder how many of you guys thread your ring work?
Well why not?
Well why not?
I don't know why that would be needed .
The collar on top of them are threaded .
The threaded collar pushes them flush to the walls of the forearm/handle or sleeve.
Counterbore the bottom of the threaded collar to the size of the tenon give you more room for the rings not to hit the threads.
Don't need to.....the ring packs are captured between threaded parts (collars).
Shouldn't ever come loose for 100 + years .
What Dave and Joey said :thumbup:
I think you will find it follows the same line as with ferrules, those who have the machinery to live thread do and those who can't live thread don't.
And I think quite a few of those whos happy with a sleeve type connection might not know what they are missing out on. As Barenbrugge pointed out, once you screw a part down, you no longer have to worry about glue lines and such.
I don't know about the other makers who live thread, but I make my parts as tight fitting as possible, no slop at all, so if I have rings that go between the wood and the ring/buttcap/joint collar, those rings wan't go anywhere, just from the preassure of the screwed on part alone.
Laughed my ass off when I read this. I have some rings that are .015" thick, I will thread them from now on, yup.
Kudos to Renegade, some people got the humor.
Don't need to.....the ring packs are captured between threaded parts (collars).
Shouldn't ever come loose for 100 + years .
Maybe thats what screw on tips were for.
Frank...are you bored?
The ferrule is the part of the cue which receives the most abuse other than the tip. If there would be one area which could benefit from the extra strength of threading that would be it. Threading also has the added side benefit of not having to clamp.
Just out of curiosity are you set up for live threading?
I have seen hundreds of glue failures from non threaded ferrules and only a handful of failures with threaded ferrules. So capped and threaded has been my standard for almost 30 years. I occasionally do a short non threaded ferrule and I always cut grooves in the tenon to hold glue.
LMAO, yes!
But, suppose I was making a joint to a fix two pieces of steel together and I was gonna weld them together, would i gain anything by threading them first? I've done this a hell of a lot of times over the last 40+ years and never had a need to use both threads and weld. It's the same thing really. I'm not convinced 2 mechanical bonds are required but then again, I don't build anybody elses cues, and have had no problems with mine. It's just what I do, but I'm not saying it is any better, just don't see the need so far.
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Are you comparing glue or epoxy to a weld??
You're not really comparing welded steel to glued plastic to wood, are you ?
Why not press fit those two steels and epoxy them?
Oh no, you did not just compare threading and gluing on a pool cue to welding two pieces of steel together, did you?
The threads in a ferrule and on a wood tenon are what I would consider only one mechanical bond. Each part is 1/2 of the total. The glue is not what I would consider a mechanical bond...it's a glue bond and help keeps the mechanical bond from unwinding itself. That's all the glue is used for on the cues I build.
I can assemble a plain cue (no points or rings) with the only glue on the entire cue (shaft and butt) holding the tip on. IMO, you just don't get any more solid than that.
But, that of course, is just my opinion. That's why I call them custom cues. Not just because they may be made to some personal spec for an individual player but because I do some things most would never consider doing in their cues and probably think I'm crazy for doing it in mine.
I have the do it once and do it right mission statement for my end product. Now does that mean I've never had one of cues come back? No one building cues can say that and not be stretching the truth.
Frank, you do what you feel comfortable with and feel what is best for your end product...I'll do the same. I'm not trying convince you or anyone else what's right or what's wrong, I'm just trying to explain the correct way of doing things.
When you shoot a finish you need a chemical bond As Well as a mechanical bond for a proper finish, so id you finish with epoxy as some do, is it not mechanical as well as chemical. Of course it is, so therefore epoxy in a joint is mechanical as well.
I never said it was wrong for anyone to thread, I just said I don't thread ferrules because I don't have trouble with them.
You may be correct to an extent....however, with both the epoxy and the spray finish I use both manufacturers tell me if I apply a second coat within 48 hrs there is no scuffing necessary....hence no mechanical bond.
But...the discussion is about threading ferrules vs slip fitting ferrules.
If you'd like, I could explain proper finishing techniques at a later time. :wink: