making pocket shelves more friendly

nine o nine said:

Our communitie's table, an 8' furniture piece, will be re-clothed soon. While the hired company's mechanic is here doing that job I want to adjust the pocket shelves...they are too deep and many balls hang in the pocket throat. The players are retired recreational guys and the pocket geometry takes much of the fun out of the game. I propose to shorten the shelf by changing the radius of the openings since the bed cloth will be off for an hour or two while the mechanic is doing the rail cloth. His company won't allow him to do this?????
I'm fully capable of doing a good job but I hope my plan is good (I was an airplane mechanic for years and have good hands with tools) and a full understanding of table geometry.
I hope to get a couple of answers from the pros on this forum. "A" is simply reshaping the pocket radius a legitimate idea rather than a whole recut of the slate? Recutting the slate is not an option. "B" Is a rasp the best tool to use followed by sanding for smoothness?
I think increasing the radius 1/4" out would make a big difference in the playability of this table.
I've measured the pocket angles and they're generally a bit off in three or four spots too but I can't talk the association into letting me mess with those.
Thanks for listening RKC, Trent, Geoff and all the other pros here for making this forum possible. Mitch

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Please don't mess with the slate.. The best way to adjust the pocket difficulty is by adjusting the rail angles. It will be more expensive, but you won't ruin the table. Cutting slate is always an absolute last resort.

Furniture style tables always have bucket pockets, with poor rail angles. Depending on the manufacturer, the facings may be junk. Or, there is also the possibility that the cushion ends were cut poorly, which also makes a pocket play bad.

My point is: I think that you are focused on the wrong aspect. What is the make/model? Olhausens are commonly known for difficult playing pockets. However, if you change the rail angles to 141° x 13°, it really makes the table play much more forgiving, even with a tighter opening. I typically adjust all of my rails to 141°. However, I may change the down draft angle, depending on the table. Brunswick Gold Crowns/Anniversaries/etc.. I almost always go with 12° down draft angle.

Also, a harder durometer facing will make the pocket play a bit more forgiving. Cushion rubber is usually somewhere in the range of 50A. I typically use 60A neoprene rubber facings. You could go harder, but I wouldn't recommend it. Some guys use 40A, but that will really make a pocket play springy.

Again, a lot of options here. But, cutting the slate is never ideal. Unless, of course, there isn't a large enough radius on the edge of the pockets, which causes ball impacts to cut through the cloth. However, you really only need about 1/4" radius.

nine o nine said:

Our communitie's table, an 8' furniture piece, will be re-clothed soon. While the hired company's mechanic is here doing that job I want to adjust the pocket shelves...they are too deep and many balls hang in the pocket throat. The players are retired recreational guys and the pocket geometry takes much of the fun out of the game. I propose to shorten the shelf by changing the radius of the openings since the bed cloth will be off for an hour or two while the mechanic is doing the rail cloth. His company won't allow him to do this?????
I'm fully capable of doing a good job but I hope my plan is good (I was an airplane mechanic for years and have good hands with tools) and a full understanding of table geometry.
I hope to get a couple of answers from the pros on this forum. "A" is simply reshaping the pocket radius a legitimate idea rather than a whole recut of the slate? Recutting the slate is not an option. "B" Is a rasp the best tool to use followed by sanding for smoothness?
I think increasing the radius 1/4" out would make a big difference in the playability of this table.
I've measured the pocket angles and they're generally a bit off in three or four spots too but I can't talk the association into letting me mess with those.
Thanks for listening RKC, Trent, Geoff and all the other pros here for making this forum possible. Mitch

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Brad gave you some good solid advice, and I'll go a little further as well. Maybe check with an optometrist and get some pool playing glasses, being as good as I am, it's getting harder for me to see all the time. Or, you might even consider letting your grandkids shoot for you when it's your turn....LOL but my one question of concern is, do you still work on airplanes, and if so.....which ones in particular?:thumbup:

I got my A+P licence in 1961. I worked mostly helping local home-builders with their projects. Did a total airframe and engine restoration on a J-3 Cub and was confident enough to teach and solo my son when he was sixteen...got my instructor's certificates too. I taught single and multi engine, instrument , single engine seaplane as well as glider.

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I moved a GC III into my basemen

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Why couldn't you have been my neighbor!

EAA 45 yrs, started separate flying club about 15 yrs ago with C140, pre-war J3. Used to own and make parts for C175. (Under A&P "supervision") Sonerai 2L project now. Oh, & BBC 1927 9' "Royal"project.

I'm just 10 yrs younger and starting to wonder - how do you make it in life (will to go on living :smile: ) without a shop as a person ages out. Or do you have access to some?

smt

Nice plane. Good luck with your table project.