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02-14-2016, 07:30 AM

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Originally Posted by Sloppy Pockets View Post
Can't say much about shaft sanding, but I really love your avatar. I'm a huge Gracie fan from way back. Seen her live in 1970, 9 months pregnant and still out there belting out tunes and strutting her stuff while we all expected her to drop the kid at any time. I was tripping pretty heavy on Orange Sunshine and kept trying to climb into the huge bass bins to hear the music better. Best concert I ever (partially) remember. Lol
I've always thought I was born in the wrong era. Sounds like a good time!
  
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Cues - 02-14-2016, 10:20 AM

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Originally Posted by beerpressure View Post
I've only ever owned a cheap cue that came with the shaft shiny and impossible to make a closed bridge with. It needed to have the shiny coating of lacquer sanded off to be playable.

Do "good" shafts come already smooth and ready to play? I want to buy a new cue but don't want to have to sand it to make it playable.

Hi.
Its a whole different world, from a cheap cue that have some kind of clear coat over the shaft ...

The way I do my shafts, I don't know if you can get a smoother non sticky non greasy feel.

If you are buying a solid maple shaft then it can be taken down to what size you want.

Everyone has a different personal opinion on which cues they like and which ones they don't.

If you would like some help in getting a decent cue feel free to pm me and I will do what I can to get you into a cue for what ever your budget is or at least I can try.

You really need to be able to know if the cue you think you might like if the shaft can be taken down to the size you like best.

There is allot of cues that the shafts are resin reinforced or laminated or cored and all kinds of different stuff done to them that they cannot be made smaller for different reasons ..................


MMike
  
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Sealegs50
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02-14-2016, 10:32 AM

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Originally Posted by Shooter08 View Post
I thought I read a post here where a guy ran into the respected builder of his cue years later and was asked, have you ever sanded the shafts? He said no and the builder told him "thank you" or something to that extent, like people were ruining his cues by sanding the shaft.
You may be referring to a post I made recently. The cuemaker was Dan Janes. He wasn't asking a general question. He noticed when running the shafts through his fingers that they appeared to have the original taper. So he said (IIRC), "You haven't sanded these shafts, have you?". When I said "no", he responded with "thank you".

I believe my post also provided a comment from Laurie Franklin, who I called soon after buying a South West cue in 1991. I asked about care of the shafts. She told me that if she ever heard of me taking sand paper to the cue, she would take it away from me. Several years later, on an occasion when I sent the cue back for retipping, she asked me what finish I used on my shafts because they had a great feel to them. I told her that was my hand oil. Nothing else.
  
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02-14-2016, 12:46 PM

Thx, this is the post I was referring to.
  
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02-14-2016, 02:52 PM

I know, I know but I like using the green scrubbies while playing and once in a while I'll use the little q perfect sand papers.
  
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02-14-2016, 03:15 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by neonlight View Post
Shafts get sticky and bumpy. Just like tires on a car wear down. The shaft is a tool. Like a sharp chisel. The chisel needs to be sharpened to work as intended. Your shaft needs to be sanded/polished to achieve optimum performance. A 1200 grit will remove imperceptible amounts of wood. I have a Josh shaft which is 30 yrs. old. I have sanded it as needed. It is essentially the same diameter as when first purchased. I was a tool and die guy. I know how to measure to .00001". So I know what I'm saying here.
Again, the shaft is a tool to get a job done. It is not a painting to be viewed and never touched. If you do wear it down buy another one!
The smoother the shaft the smoother the stroke. Simple physics.



Wow.... It takes people thousands and thousands of posts to come up with a classic like this.

And you did it in only 26.......Bravo.

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Playing cues: Big-Pin Ivory Scruggs
Judd Wrapless (Still the All Time Fav).
Cue Case: Whitten 2x4
Tip: Searing (Hard)
Fav shaft: Gulyassy SPTX(whip it good)
  
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02-15-2016, 08:32 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildWing View Post
Then, stop doing what everybody does, chalking with your bridge hand. It just dumps chalk dust onto your bridge hand, which transfers the chalk dust onto your shaft over time. Chalk with the other hand, keeping the shaft relatively clean.
I am very confused by this comment being I chalk with my bridge hand and never get chalk "dumped" on it. As a matter of fact, being that my hand is above the chalk and the shaft tip of the stick the very natural forces of gravity prevent the chalk from going to my bridge hand but instead cause it to fall more toward my shooting hand.

I also wear a glove 100% of the time so do not need to clean my shaft very often. As a matter of fact I have probably over 200 hours actually shooting on the one I have now an don't feel it needs to be cleaned.

It certainly does not need to be sanded or burnished which I never quite understood why some people do that so much. One buddy of mine does it every time he takes his sticks out of his bag and the middle of the shaft is thinner than the rest of it. I tell him that if you are that sensitive to every little nick and nook in the thing then start wearing a glove so you don't feel them.
  
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02-15-2016, 08:43 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildWing View Post
Sanding is for reducing the diameter of a shaft, not for cleaning it. If you constantly clean with sandpaper, you're going to keep doing it, and end up with something resembling a needle.

For cleaning a shaft, rub a damp paper towel over the shaft, some prefer denatured alcohol, some don't, it's up to you. Follow up with a shaft sealer of some type, Q Slick works good, or a sanding sealer. Then finish up with either Q papers or micro cloths, or the equivalent to get the right smoothness. Some prefer to finish with wax; I don't need it. Up to you.

Then, stop doing what everybody does, chalking with your bridge hand. It just dumps chalk dust onto your bridge hand, which transfers the chalk dust onto your shaft over time. Chalk with the other hand, keeping the shaft relatively clean.

Other methods work, but stop sanding your shafts. It's not necessary. Adopt better habits.

All the best,
WW
It doesn't matter what grit sandpaper you are using. Each time you sand, you make the shaft smaller. Sure it is an tiny bit but eventually I will be able to sell you a new shaft. The damp paper towel will clean off the contaminants that are on the surface of the wood and causing the sticky shaft. Your hands should also be washed to remove the sweat and oils that cause the sticking. If, after drying, the shaft has some raised grain, Lightly sand with 600 0r 800 grit till smooth. After a few times wiping and sanding, the grain issue will be gone. Scotch brite sands wood.
  
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02-15-2016, 11:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy27 View Post
I am very confused by this comment being I chalk with my bridge hand and never get chalk "dumped" on it. As a matter of fact, being that my hand is above the chalk and the shaft tip of the stick the very natural forces of gravity prevent the chalk from going to my bridge hand but instead cause it to fall more toward my shooting hand.
When a lot of people chalk with their bridge hand, they're also holding the end of the shaft with that same hand. That hand cannot help but get chalk particles on it. Sounds like you have a better way of doing it with your palm not below the chalking. That's what I meant.
  
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02-15-2016, 01:06 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildWing View Post
When a lot of people chalk with their bridge hand, they're also holding the end of the shaft with that same hand....... That's what I meant.
That makes sense for what you said then. I was trying to picture it, but never got the image of someone holding it and chalking it with the same hand.
  
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02-15-2016, 01:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by beerpressure View Post
Do "good" shafts come already smooth and ready to play? I want to buy a new cue but don't want to have to sand it to make it playable.
Yes, at least the shafts from Predator do.


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02-15-2016, 01:33 PM

I've seen cues from manufacturers that didn't do the final sanding n the shaft. That's the only time I would sand it and I would have someone w a lathe do it.

I have a cleaner/polisher for keeping it slick.

Imo, chalk on the shaft is just a part of pool life.
  
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02-15-2016, 05:05 PM

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Originally Posted by Paul Dayton View Post
It doesn't matter what grit sandpaper you are using. Each time you sand, you make the shaft smaller. Sure it is an tiny bit but eventually I will be able to sell you a new shaft.
As a cuemaker, you are correct. Some of the other responses love to kid us, with their grinding down shafts to make themselves feel good, for whatever good that does.

It grinds down wood, people. Listen to Paul. And also Mike. Don't sand your shafts. Learn to clean and smooth your shafts.

I just cringe at all the wood that's lost.
  
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02-16-2016, 07:40 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildWing View Post
As a cuemaker, you are correct. Some of the other responses love to kid us, with their grinding down shafts to make themselves feel good, for whatever good that does.

It grinds down wood, people. Listen to Paul. And also Mike. Don't sand your shafts. Learn to clean and smooth your shafts.

I just cringe at all the wood that's lost.
I remember seeing an early '70s Palmer go from 12 1/2 mm down to about 10 over several years. Makes me shudder to even think about it


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