Anniversary Frame Bolts

Boxcar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As you know, the four corners of the base frame on an Anniversary table are held together by four 1/2" #13 x 7" square head bolts. What size 8 point socket do you use to take them out?

Thank you.

Boxcar
 

Lawnboy77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As you know, the four corners of the base frame on an Anniversary table are held together by four 1/2" #13 x 7" square head bolts. What size 8 point socket do you use to take them out?

Thank you.

Boxcar

Well I don't have any 8 pt. sockets, but a 23 mm 12 point socket works great on the head and 24 mm 12 point works fine on the nuts. In SAE sizes that would be somewhere around 7/8" and 15/16", and that should also be 12 pt, I don't think a 6 pt. will work for you.
 

kid

billiard mechanic
Silver Member
I think an open wrench would work better. 3/4 ‘’
Would be the right size if i remember correctly


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant AzBilliards Forums
 

Lawnboy77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Yeah an open end wrench is not going to work on the 4 corner frame bolts, those are counterbored. You could use an open end wrench on the pedestal nuts, but you would still need a socket to hold back-up on the head since those are also counterbored. The sizes I posted are correct. I fit tested those before posting. In the pic it's showing a 24 mm on the head, but really a 23 mm on the head and 24 mm on the nut would be the best fit.

1f95b5940a97ba14646263862abe388d.jpg
85c44ec25d56e8e00690b59f9b85bfd2.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Boxcar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Gentlemen,

Thank you very much for your replies. Lawnboy, thank you for back-checking your first response. I just got word back from an off-site inquiry that a 3/4" 8pt. socket is the exact fit, but I don't have one. I do, however, have a barn full of metric sockets, so I'm good to go.

I'll be bringing most of "Baby" home next week. I'll have to wait for my son to help me bring the slates, but we all know that I have my work cut out for me before I'll ever need to install the heavy stuff.

Again, THANKS!!!!! This project is making me feel like a kid again.

Best regards,
Boxcar
 

Lawnboy77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Gentlemen,

Thank you very much for your replies. Lawnboy, thank you for back-checking your first response. I just got word back from an off-site inquiry that a 3/4" 8pt. socket is the exact fit, but I don't have one. I do, however, have a barn full of metric sockets, so I'm good to go.

I'll be bringing most of "Baby" home next week. I'll have to wait for my son to help me bring the slates, but we all know that I have my work cut out for me before I'll ever need to install the heavy stuff.

Again, THANKS!!!!! This project is making me feel like a kid again.

Best regards,
Boxcar

Sounds like a good plan and glad to help out. Those 8 pt. sockets must be real old school. I'm nearing 60 years old and don't think I have ever seen any.

The torques should be relatively low so no problem using the metric 12 pt. sockets. If you have the space for transport I'd suggest just leaving the frame assembled.
 

Boxcar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I like the way you think! We might be able to bring the frame home when we get the slates. Are there any deep pitfalls associated with taking the frame apart?

I appreciate the help.

Boxcar
 

Lawnboy77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I like the way you think! We might be able to bring the frame home when we get the slates. Are there any deep pitfalls associated with taking the frame apart?

I appreciate the help.

Boxcar

No, nothing big about taking it apart, just a little more time and effort than what is needed in my opinion, that is if you have the room in the transport vehicle. If you don’t then by all means, take the frame apart being careful to assemble it just as the factory did, and don’t lose any hardware. The movers that moved mine lost bolts and nuts. It might be hard finding exact hardware if you are a stickler for all things being original.

Edit: I would for sure remove the two bridge holders that mount to the frame. Those are expensive to replace. BTW I need one more for mine if anyone knows of a good source, I’d appreciate the info. Thanks.
 
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trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
I like the way you think! We might be able to bring the frame home when we get the slates. Are there any deep pitfalls associated with taking the frame apart?

I appreciate the help.

Boxcar

Be careful not to break off the dowels! That is the only risky part. Mark the frame with a marker. There are stamps in the wood, but, can be hard to see. Much easier to move apart :)

Trent from Toledo
 

iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member

Boxcar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Lawnboy,

Thanks for the update. I'd like to take it apart so I can get all of the misc. parts on the workbench for review and repair as needed. It will be much easier for me to move if it is separated, so your feedback is valuable.

Trent,

Once the bolts are removed, can I use a rubber mallet and gently bump the sides off the ends? How tight is the dowel fitting? Did the factory glue both connecting points?

IusedtobeRich,

You, Sir, are absolutely correct! Thanks for going to the trouble to resource the 8pt. sockets for me. I placed the order for the 3/4" 8pt. socket and it is, as we speak, hurtling toward my waiting hands. Good call.

Thanks to everyone for the support.

Best regards,
Boxcar
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
Lawnboy,

Thanks for the update. I'd like to take it apart so I can get all of the misc. parts on the workbench for review and repair as needed. It will be much easier for me to move if it is separated, so your feedback is valuable.

Trent,

Once the bolts are removed, can I use a rubber mallet and gently bump the sides off the ends? How tight is the dowel fitting? Did the factory glue both connecting points?

IusedtobeRich,

You, Sir, are absolutely correct! Thanks for going to the trouble to resource the 8pt. sockets for me. I placed the order for the 3/4" 8pt. socket and it is, as we speak, hurtling toward my waiting hands. Good call.

Thanks to everyone for the support.

Best regards,
Boxcar


The dowels are not tight, bring a mini sledge and a block of wood just in case. No glue.

I have been using a socket like lawnboy posted for about 6 years now with very little issue( a few bolts have given me trouble, seee in capital letters below). One hitch about tryin to fit a socket perfectly on the square headed bolt like that is this: THE HEAD OF THE BOLTS VARY IN SIZE SLIGHTLY. Must be the lack of precision technology in the 40's and 50's...

The forum has this issue: people who don't know things like this post far to often.... Can be very misleading and sometimes just WRONG>

Good luck!

Trent from Toledo
 

Boxcar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Trent,

Thank you for all of your support! I particularly appreciate the copy of the Installation Manual. I saved it and now can blow it up in order to see the detailed sketches and read the "fine print." Great work!

Now, this note to All:

I would be terribly remiss by not acknowledging the many contributions made to my project by a very special artist, Derrick at Billiard Restoration Service. Derrick was generous to a fault. He shared freely and openly and greatly broadened my knowledge of The Brunswick Anniversary Pool Table from its inception. When he responded to my question about the 8pt. socket, he not only gave me the correct size but he gave me the manufacturer's name and their part number. The 3/4" Armstrong USA Socket, part #12-424, is the perfect socket for the job.

My "new" Anniversary Table will be my "forever table." I'm 73 years old, so I've got about 25 good years of pool left. I will restore my table to its earlier glory. I'll do my best to keep those who are interested abreast of the latest developments. Like my grandfather used to say, "The mystery continues."

Best regards,
Boxcar
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
Trent,

Thank you for all of your support! I particularly appreciate the copy of the Installation Manual. I saved it and now can blow it up in order to see the detailed sketches and read the "fine print." Great work!

Now, this note to All:

I would be terribly remiss by not acknowledging the many contributions made to my project by a very special artist, Derrick at Billiard Restoration Service. Derrick was generous to a fault. He shared freely and openly and greatly broadened my knowledge of The Brunswick Anniversary Pool Table from its inception. When he responded to my question about the 8pt. socket, he not only gave me the correct size but he gave me the manufacturer's name and their part number. The 3/4" Armstrong USA Socket, part #12-424, is the perfect socket for the job.

My "new" Anniversary Table will be my "forever table." I'm 73 years old, so I've got about 25 good years of pool left. I will restore my table to its earlier glory. I'll do my best to keep those who are interested abreast of the latest developments. Like my grandfather used to say, "The mystery continues."

Best regards,
Boxcar

You are welcome! The manual came to me for free and share it freely!
As for the socket, I am interested to hear how that works out :) As I mentioned in my earlier post the bolt heads are not always the same size, so bring more than one option :) Good luck with your table and keep us posted with pictures!

Trent from Toledo
 

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
In a pinch, you can use an open-end wrench. Place the wrench on the bolt, perpendicular to the typical fashion. Insert a long screwdriver through the box-end, and use it like a T-handle.

It's not proper, and it does put stress on the open-end jaws. If not careful, you could break your wrench. But, it does work, if you don't have a socket.
 
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