More beginner questions...

rack runner

Registered
Hey everyone, back with more questions. Im hoping it doesnt offend the seasoned cuemakers digital ears too much.

Starting small, gearing up. Still have to get some machinery together. But, when making house cue conversions, often times you have to extend the butt after cut, for said reasons. The dimension at the joint where you would need to cut to be, for example, .840", would make the cue come out too short and youd rather not turn down the entire blank just to do a house cue conversion. So to make up the additional 3-3.5 inches you add a buttsleeve of whatever wood combined with a collar after and bumper.

Im a machinist at work, am familiar with lathe work but, not specifically cue work...so...
Heres the newbie question. What kind of mechanism/design do cuemakers (you guys) use to join the end of your (now cut) 25.500" house cue so that the total length comes out to 29", while still maintaining balance.

Been pouring over the web and this forum looking for answers!!!
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
Add a buttsleeve. Either with a tenon that's part of the sleeve, or on a core. Select your materials depending on the weight of the pieces you have, what you'll use as a pin, what the total weight needs to be.
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Threading the tenon adds to the build.

Specially when that section gets slammed to the floor a lot.
5/8 18 is a good one for that purpose.
You can then turn down the outside of that butt bottom that has the threads to 7/8.
When you slide in the sleeve, the outside of the threaded part will now have two glued surface plus the threads.
If you use 3/8 16 connecting screw, you then add a little more weight to the bottom.
 

WilleeCue

The Barefoot Cuemaker
Silver Member
Start with a longer house cue?

I dont understand how cutting and joining a house cue reduces the overall length more than about 1/4 inch.
Most house cue conversions will require a new shaft or at least re-tapering the original shaft.
 

Mase

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Start with a longer house cue?

I dont understand how cutting and joining a house cue reduces the overall length more than about 1/4 inch.
Most house cue conversions will require a new shaft or at least re-tapering the original shaft.

Most house cues start at 57".
 

rack runner

Registered
Start with a longer house cue?

I dont understand how cutting and joining a house cue reduces the overall length more than about 1/4 inch.
Most house cue conversions will require a new shaft or at least re-tapering the original shaft.

sorry maybe wasnt clear how i phrased. only reason length would be significantly reduced if im trying to get to a certain dim at the joint collar. certain house cue blanks have one taper angle and that being said ramps up/ramps down significantly throughout the length of the cue.
 

JC

Coos Cues
sorry maybe wasnt clear how i phrased. only reason length would be significantly reduced if im trying to get to a certain dim at the joint collar. certain house cue blanks have one taper angle and that being said ramps up/ramps down significantly throughout the length of the cue.
I only like house cues with a lot of meat in the area that would be the joint. Fortunately this is mostly older ones that you can get for cheap or free due to their messed up shaft section. Mic the cue 30 inches up and if it's under about .870" or so pass on it.

Personally I like to add a butt sleeve with about a 1.5-2 inch threaded tenon on the front that's all one piece.and just thread it into the handle with what you're doing. Unless you are using outer wood that's not stable then a dowel would be better. This area of the cue is tougher than nails.
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
sorry maybe wasnt clear how i phrased. only reason length would be significantly reduced if im trying to get to a certain dim at the joint collar. certain house cue blanks have one taper angle and that being said ramps up/ramps down significantly throughout the length of the cue.
It's a little more work, but you could add a handle (around 18" lets you attach a piece of the original as a buttsleeve). That gives you another 12" or so to play with. Or leave the buttsleeve off, and wrap all the way to a buttcap.
 

JC

Coos Cues
It's a little more work, but you could add a handle (around 18" lets you attach a piece of the original as a buttsleeve). That gives you another 12" or so to play with. Or leave the buttsleeve off, and wrap all the way to a buttcap.
It's a good way to get started learning how you want your processes to be but eventually you realize if you're going to do that much work you may as well start with blank wood and make something better than a bar cue conversion. I still have a few bar cue butts I "grew out of" and never went any further with.
 

JC

Coos Cues
no value added............ none of my 300 cues have fallen apart
A long time ago before I started building cues I put a slide on friction fit butt extension on a cue that belonged to my brother in law. It fit pretty snug and when I pulled it off the butt cap and lower rings came with it. The cue was built by a very respected builder.

Probably would have been a handy spot for some threads. (y)
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
A long time ago before I started building cues I put a slide on friction fit butt extension on a cue that belonged to my brother in law. It fit pretty snug and when I pulled it off the butt cap and lower rings came with it. The cue was built by a very respected builder.

Probably would have been a handy spot for some threads. (y)
If someone is extending the bottom of the cue and not threading that new tenon, he's just being lazy or is not equipped to do it .
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
If you're equipped for threading, you're likely also equipped to glue a tenon properly. Both are going to require some experience and knowledge, regardless of equipment.
 
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