i have a question for the cue makers please. Im starting to process a bunch of handles to get into my pipeline of wood. trying to get it ready for assembly down the road. my question is how much material can i take out when cutting my tenon for A joint and my approx 5 inch tenon for coring my butt sleeve. im thinking i should take it out in incremental bites but not sure how much i should take at a time. or is taking it off all at once ok any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks :thumbup:
question about cutting handle tenons for A JOINT and butt sleeve
- Thread starter mrkdenton
- Start date
Chris,
You want to cut in increments and let it warp (move) if it wants to.
When it stops moving you can use it for a cue.
Takes some time depending of the atmosphere in your shop.
If you don’ t control the temp and humidity in your shop you will only make a stable cue by accident.
Bill S.
You want to cut in increments and let it warp (move) if it wants to.
When it stops moving you can use it for a cue.
Takes some time depending of the atmosphere in your shop.
If you don’ t control the temp and humidity in your shop you will only make a stable cue by accident.
Bill S.
Plan on at least 5 cuts.
More importantly, do it on your taper machine.
Do not do it on your lathe using a lathe bit.
Use the router and a sharp bit.
And nobody says you have to take it down to .750".
.875" works for me.
More importantly, do it on your taper machine.
Do not do it on your lathe using a lathe bit.
Use the router and a sharp bit.
And nobody says you have to take it down to .750".
.875" works for me.
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I cut them incrementally and them let them hang slightly oversize until I am ready to use them. I only make the final cuts to my tenons right before glue up. When doing your final turn you can see right away which ones are stable and which ones are not. The good ones will run true before that final cut.
.875 - 7/8" B/S tenon dia. seems to be gaining in popularity of late.
Likely due to the possible warp issue. The concept has been around for a while.
My contribution to this thread is that the B/S tenon doesn't need to be of
the same wood as the wrap-handle. Coupled with a 7/8" dia., warp is history.
KJ
Oh ok. So your saying join the butt sleeve tenon into the handle kind of like the A joint. If your using different wood for it.
He's saying use a 7/8 coring dowel for the handle .
Sleeve the 12" long handle sleeve and use a 17" long dowel.
Once you start making a bunch of coring dowels, you no longer have to worry about the butt sleeve tenon.
An .875" dowel will need an .880" or so gun drill.
Some people use phenolic tube in the A-joint cavity but that's another story.
Ahhhh. Ok. I understand now. Lol. Thanks!!!!
No I'm not. Where the hell did you get that ?
You know my position on coring. I'm not suggesting coring at all here.
I'm quite capable of speaking and writing for myself; I don't need a translator.
I'm talking a B/S tenon and only a tenon, 1 1/2 - 2" deep into the base of the wrap-handle wood.
I knew that concept would be too foreign for some. About as foreign as coring is for me.
Y'all have a GREAT day. Now that coring is being introduced to the thread....I'm gone.
Since it has been introduced, I guess nobody will mind if I say that I core my handlesI do it the way Joey described, 12" handle with 16.5" core. Movement is not an issue.
Thanks for the input. What size do u do your dowels for cores.
Since I'm new to cue building. I welcome all styles of building process. Just trying to soak it all up like a sponge. Thanks guys.
. Much appreciatedI use a .775" core. When the sleeve is ready to install, I shave the tenon down to .750". IMO, the diameter of the tenon is irrelevant. The exception is weight distribution. The butt sleeve serves a bigger purpose than simply aesthetics. Case in point, a cocobolo nose with maple handle will be front heavy. The cocobolo butt sleeve counterweights the front for balance. The larger the tenon, the less the cocobolo sleeve will weigh, the less it will be able to counter the front tilted balance. Of course you can add weight bolts in attempt to manipulate balance. Contrarily, a maple front with cocobolo points & maple handle will not be near as front heavy as a cocobolo front. Using a larger diameter tenon in this cue makes sense to prevent the cocobolo sleeve from placing the balance too rearward.
These are often ignored details that I put a lot of thought into with a cue build. This kind of stuff is critical throughout the build from tip to bumper. Certainly somebody can dismiss it as wading in the weeds, but their success or lack thereof reflects their approach. Point being, put some thought into your cues. Try to grasp what's going on, why things get done the way they do. If you don't fully understand the purpose for each component and how it relates with the rest of the cue, then you are building blind. Further yet, if you don't understand the purpose, you cannot figure out ways to make it better. We have plenty makers who build a so-so hitting cue that are really pretty. Don't be another one.
These are often ignored details that I put a lot of thought into with a cue build. This kind of stuff is critical throughout the build from tip to bumper. Certainly somebody can dismiss it as wading in the weeds, but their success or lack thereof reflects their approach. Point being, put some thought into your cues. Try to grasp what's going on, why things get done the way they do. If you don't fully understand the purpose for each component and how it relates with the rest of the cue, then you are building blind. Further yet, if you don't understand the purpose, you cannot figure out ways to make it better. We have plenty makers who build a so-so hitting cue that are really pretty. Don't be another one.