Just like throwing I imagine. Past the apex; apogee? Cool sounding word. You want your bicep out of the loop as soon as possible though.
Arm past perpendicular at address, common with the greats of the past?
- Thread starter Snooker Theory
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biceps
You caught my attention with the comment about getting the bicep out of the loop as soon as possible. I have always felt just the opposite, The big muscle of the biceps keeps the shot on a straight line through the contact with the cue ball.
How and why do you try to eliminate the effect of the bicep? I apologize if I am asking for a lot of typing, this is the reverse of my thinking and I'd like to know if I need to reconsider things.
Thanks in advance,
Hu
You caught my attention with the comment about getting the bicep out of the loop as soon as possible. I have always felt just the opposite, The big muscle of the biceps keeps the shot on a straight line through the contact with the cue ball.
How and why do you try to eliminate the effect of the bicep? I apologize if I am asking for a lot of typing, this is the reverse of my thinking and I'd like to know if I need to reconsider things.
Thanks in advance,
Hu
Sorry missed this. I find having anything but momentum on the stick can and more than likely will deflect the shot. And this is presuming you didnt slow down the hit with a misjudged impact. What cue weight do you favor? If you are habituated to "curling" the ball, go up an oz and try a free swinging stroke. There's a big zone where the results are comparable to those achieved with the lighter cue.
With my stroke there's a break right between 19 and 20 oz. ie. for a given stroke, the 19 runs the ball and the 20 kills it. I favor a 20 nowadays for the consistency (more cue less effort) and throttle back the hit to run the ball.
You may get a book now!
I generally use about a sixteen ounce cue. It is wrapless and a bit grabby to use a slipstroke so when practicing the slipstroke I swap to an old wrapped cue that is probably more like nineteen or twenty ounces.
Long ago I experimented with cue weights. I went from 15 to 22 ounces then jumped to 32 ounces. Thirty-two ounces was like driving tacks with a sledge hammer!
My experience was a lot like yours, somewhere around 19-20 ounces is the sweet spot for easy play or was back then. I think a little lighter might be the sweet spot with today's cloth and cushions but my testing was back in the seventies. Even then, over twenty ounces seemed to overpower most tables.
Then a friend turned me on to a twelve ounce snooker cue with the original milk dud on it from the man generally credited as the inventor. It was hard to play with even on a bar table, maybe especially on a bar table with the big and heavy cue balls. Now I was trying to drive a thirty penny nail with a tack hammer. Took me awhile to get used to doing all of the work myself, plus this cue with an 11mm tip was low deflection long before low deflection was cool!
Once I mastered that cue pretty well I had a level of cue ball control scarcely to be believed. Once I had it with one stick I was able to move that control over to other sticks too. That twelve ounce cue was one piece to get that light and awkward to tote.
My findings, which was also true with pistols incidentally, was that the easiest thing to use isn't necessarily the best. I still plan to build myself a very light cue with a G-10 pin but probably one more thing I will never get around to.
Hu
I generally use about a sixteen ounce cue. It is wrapless and a bit grabby to use a slipstroke so when practicing the slipstroke I swap to an old wrapped cue that is probably more like nineteen or twenty ounces.
Long ago I experimented with cue weights. I went from 15 to 22 ounces then jumped to 32 ounces. Thirty-two ounces was like driving tacks with a sledge hammer!
My experience was a lot like yours, somewhere around 19-20 ounces is the sweet spot for easy play or was back then. I think a little lighter might be the sweet spot with today's cloth and cushions but my testing was back in the seventies. Even then, over twenty ounces seemed to overpower most tables.
Then a friend turned me on to a twelve ounce snooker cue with the original milk dud on it from the man generally credited as the inventor. It was hard to play with even on a bar table, maybe especially on a bar table with the big and heavy cue balls. Now I was trying to drive a thirty penny nail with a tack hammer. Took me awhile to get used to doing all of the work myself, plus this cue with an 11mm tip was low deflection long before low deflection was cool!
Once I mastered that cue pretty well I had a level of cue ball control scarcely to be believed. Once I had it with one stick I was able to move that control over to other sticks too. That twelve ounce cue was one piece to get that light and awkward to tote.
My findings, which was also true with pistols incidentally, was that the easiest thing to use isn't necessarily the best. I still plan to build myself a very light cue with a G-10 pin but probably one more thing I will never get around to.
Hu
What do "curling", "running" and "killing" the ball mean?
Thanks in advance,
pj
chgo
you curl the cueball in your hand to warm it up. cueballs like to be warm and will respond to your wishes.
he mistyped running the cueball. it is gunning the cueball. just like you gun your cars engine to get that jump in speed. give that cueball the gun and off it goes into the stack with a force never seen.
killing it is self explanatory surprised you didnt see that. when the stupid cueball goes awry and wont do what it is supposed to, it needs to be struck with the butt of your cue or thrown down to the floor to teach it common manners. that is known as killing the cueball.
he mistyped running the cueball. it is gunning the cueball. just like you gun your cars engine to get that jump in speed. give that cueball the gun and off it goes into the stack with a force never seen.
killing it is self explanatory surprised you didnt see that. when the stupid cueball goes awry and wont do what it is supposed to, it needs to be struck with the butt of your cue or thrown down to the floor to teach it common manners. that is known as killing the cueball.
^lol^
Curling refers to the weight bar exercise for the biceps. You want to avoid doing this with a cueball.
Kill and run are ambulatory
terms.
20oz tends to displace the ball more than 19 oz. This delays the default onset of perfect rolling. Obviously you can hit the ball to produce immediate rolling but even that will require differing "attacks" between differing weights.
IOW
kill = a negative effect on on ball action (ball roll or angle 'size' and rebound speed if cushions are involved)
run = a positive effect on ball action. (active propulsion bias to direction and exit angles if cushions are involved)
Obviously if cushions are involved, include side spin as a factor.
Curling refers to the weight bar exercise for the biceps. You want to avoid doing this with a cueball.
Kill and run are ambulatory
terms. 20oz tends to displace the ball more than 19 oz. This delays the default onset of perfect rolling. Obviously you can hit the ball to produce immediate rolling but even that will require differing "attacks" between differing weights.
IOW
kill = a negative effect on on ball action (ball roll or angle 'size' and rebound speed if cushions are involved)
run = a positive effect on ball action. (active propulsion bias to direction and exit angles if cushions are involved)
Obviously if cushions are involved, include side spin as a factor.