Making a lathe
- Thread starter gatorjoe
- Start date
Enigmaticul
Banned
This topic has been discussed before here some time ago and the general conclusion was that by the time you retrofit that wood lathe for cues you will sped more then on a decent taig lathe like this one http://www.taigtools.com/mlathe.html
It can be done but its not worth the money.
Sorry about the bad news.
But I always like some one who can prove me wrong. I built my first lathe from parts way cheaper but with the right parts from tag.
It can be done but its not worth the money.
Sorry about the bad news.
But I always like some one who can prove me wrong. I built my first lathe from parts way cheaper but with the right parts from tag.
Don't do it
I started off this way thinking it would be easy and fun! WTF was I thinking? Check it out if you want to do tips and small repairs you could do it but its going to cost you a few $$$ to get this right.
If your looking to go this way PM me I have some parts I could sell you or just sell you my set up like this. I have 3 Hightower lathes now and don't use the other!
I'm sure I will be cheaper than you starting from scratch !
I started off this way thinking it would be easy and fun! WTF was I thinking? Check it out if you want to do tips and small repairs you could do it but its going to cost you a few $$$ to get this right.
If your looking to go this way PM me I have some parts I could sell you or just sell you my set up like this. I have 3 Hightower lathes now and don't use the other!
I'm sure I will be cheaper than you starting from scratch !
It can be done, but I don't think you'll like it in the end. You'll basically need to rig up some kind tail stock that works like a head stock. The simplest thing, is, if all the planets align, would be to build some sort of steady rest, look at the Shaftmaster for ideas, that's pretty much what you'll wind up with, but bigger. I have that same HF lathe but I use it only as a spinner to clean, wax, buff, stuff like that.
What I found was that the cost of the conversion, the time spent, my level of frustration at what didn't work just got to be to much. Take that few hundred you'd spend to convert and contact midamericapool.com , that's probably the most cost effective piece of simple equipment available for what you're describing
What I found was that the cost of the conversion, the time spent, my level of frustration at what didn't work just got to be to much. Take that few hundred you'd spend to convert and contact midamericapool.com , that's probably the most cost effective piece of simple equipment available for what you're describing
Enigmaticul
Banned
The issue with a wood late conversation is that later when the addiction really starts to sink in- it starts with tips and it ends with your nest egg/ money for tuition and books sunk in it- you will have a very hard time doing anything else like joint work and shaft build.
Dont knock yoursekf out
This is the BEST and most economical way to go. Chris Hightower will help you ANYTIME>
http://cuesmith.com/index.php?menu1=menu_lathes&page=cue_lathe_micro_2
This is the BEST and most economical way to go. Chris Hightower will help you ANYTIME>
http://cuesmith.com/index.php?menu1=menu_lathes&page=cue_lathe_micro_2
Enigmaticul
Banned
Very good advice from all the peeps so far.
My loyalty sits with Bassel at custom cue lathes because he hooked me up more the once so I would recommend him first then Hightower and Tod.
Good luck gator
My loyalty sits with Bassel at custom cue lathes because he hooked me up more the once so I would recommend him first then Hightower and Tod.
Good luck gator
I made the tip lathe for about 350
Sanding/polishing lathe about 250 .but I already had a spare headstock
after a got a large bore for the TSP&B lathe
I made the tip lathe for about 350
Sanding/polishing lathe about 250 .but I already had a spare headstock
after a got a large bore for the TSP&B lathe
Chuck
Your shop is way to clean, you're making me look bad
<@>
I am making a box way(rectangular section flat slideways) lathe.It is being made with 2 pieces of 1"x1/2" flat MS stock seperated by 1/2 inch in the middle. This is mounted onto a piece of 2"x3/8" with a 5/8"x3/16" packer between them.
The 1/2 inch wide slot will create a good length to width ratio to keep things in alignment.
The whole assembly can be twisted and biased to get the required results. There will be some lapping required.This I intend to mount to a steel box section with adjustable mount points.The final assemble will be primarily mounted on the 2 airy points with extra support as required.
It is my long term project over the coming winter.
The 1/2 inch wide slot will create a good length to width ratio to keep things in alignment.
The whole assembly can be twisted and biased to get the required results. There will be some lapping required.This I intend to mount to a steel box section with adjustable mount points.The final assemble will be primarily mounted on the 2 airy points with extra support as required.
It is my long term project over the coming winter.
Nick have you read the Gingery books ? He has some great techniques that may come in handy. I appreciate that you know what you are doing but Gingery may have a few ideas for you.
http://www.gingerybooks.com/
The other outstanding book is Machine Tool Reconditioning by Connelly. I don't have it but many I respect have nothing but praise for his work.
http://www.machinetoolpublications.com/
Dave
After much research and advice i bought a Deluxe ffom Chris Hightower this past March , and i love it i highly reccomend , and yes im starting cue repairs and soon building too:thumbup:
Chris Hightower or Todd Shultz are the only two guys I would deal with. Period. They are the best, and you never hear one single bad word about them. Ive dealt with both, and will buy from them again, for sure.
Joe
Joe
Thanks for the links. The reason for the fab approach to the bed/rail assembly is that I can get a much better length to width ratio on a relatively short distance for the tailstock, steadies, and carriage assembly. Also having a T type slot down the middle of the two rails allows for a center vertical clamp of the tail stock a steady rests.Not sure of the name for them, but intend to use the 1/4 turn nuts that rotate and have a flat that becomes parallel to the underside of the rail.I think they are Rhomboid T nuts. Another feature I want to incorporate is air floating bed like is used in some CMM's, raises the assembly by about .01 or so off the bed and glides along.It will also help to keep wood dust etc out from around the slides of the saddle.
Sounds like an interesting project, I'd love to hear how it goes ... especially the air-bearing slide. I've played with cylindrical air-bearings and they are pretty neat ... spin forever they do.
Dave