Compound Tapper add on for atlas lathe 101.07301 -

D

duaine

D-Cues
Compound Tapper add on for atlas lathe 101.07301
I just bought a atlas lathe 101.07301-- I don't know anything about an attachment to make compound tappers on my shafts. I think they make one but don't know where to look.
I have a been making my sticks with a Cue Smith but feel I have out grown it and need to move on to a metal lathe.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
The sticks I have done so far http://www.dcues.com
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
What I did was adapt a taper bar from Chris to my Atlas lathe. Both butt and shaft tapering happens on that lathe.
Dave
 
D

duaine

D-Cues
Hi Dave
When you say Chris, I don't know who that is?
Could you give me more information on how you made yours work and what taper bar your using?
Maybe a picture?
Thanks.
Duaine
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Chris is Chris Hightower that built your cuesmith lathe. I will take pics and post when I get a chance
Dave
 
D

duaine

D-Cues
Thanks Dave
I would like to see how you attached the tapper bar to the lathe
On the Carriage Slide on the Cue Smith there is a spring and a release of the Slide. This pushes rollers into the tapper bar.
I would think I would need something like that or a way to convert my Atlas Lathe.
Can you help?
Thanks
Duaine
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Here are some pictures showing the basic concept. I attached the bars to a frame, then attached the frame to the lathe bed using forged beam clamps that take 3/8x16 bolts. Then using other beam clamps, I threaded in long bolts to use as stabilizers to make it more rigid. You will have to remove the nut that is in the cross slide so that it will free float to allow the springs to hold the bearing arm tight to the taper bars. I made a bracket that bolts on the end of the cross slide, using existing holes, to be the spring base, then the springs just get hooked on the bolt heads that tighten up the compound rest. The bearing arm needs a spacer made, with a slight angle to it to get the arm level, then I drilled/tapped 2 holes for 3/8x16 for a locator pin, and the bolt to hold it on.
Hope this helps.
Dave
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D

duaine

D-Cues
Thanks Dave
The pictures should be a lot of help.
You put together an impressive lathe for yourself.
Thanks for sharing it with me.
I have a lot of work ahead of me to make my setup work.
Again without your help I would be stalled or stopped.
Thanks
Duaine
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
duaine said:
Thanks Dave
The pictures should be a lot of help.
You put together an impressive lathe for yourself.
Thanks for sharing it with me.
I have a lot of work ahead of me to make my setup work.
Again without your help I would be stalled or stopped.
Thanks
Duaine
Click to expand...

Your very welcome, anytime. If you have any questions, just shoot me a pm
Dave
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Here is what I added for the leadscrew power, instead of using the gear feed. Using 2 toothed pulleys, a belt, windshield wiper motor, 12volt dc 10 amp supply and a cheap speed pwm motor speed control from china. I machined an extension that screws onto the end of the leadscrew to mount that pulley and similar on the motor. Now, I can fine tune the feedrate for tapering. I also added a sensor assembly and power controller to auto shutdown the powerfeed and the router when the carriage has reached the end of the wood....saves on router bits and live centers...lol
Dave
IMG_20131104_235328_113.jpg

IMG_20131104_235342_778.jpg

IMG_20150716_171057_492.jpg
 
captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
Dave38 said:
Here is what I added for the leadscrew power, instead of using the gear feed. Using 2 toothed pulleys, a belt, windshield wiper motor, 12volt dc 10 amp supply and a cheap speed pwm motor speed control from china. I machined an extension that screws onto the end of the leadscrew to mount that pulley and similar on the motor. Now, I can fine tune the feedrate for tapering. I also added a sensor assembly and power controller to auto shutdown the powerfeed and the router when the carriage has reached the end of the wood....saves on router bits and live centers...lol
Dave
View attachment 507524

Dave, do you know vehicle that wiper motor fits? I want to add one to my set up...
Click to expand...
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
captainjko said:
Dave38 said:
Here is what I added for the leadscrew power, instead of using the gear feed. Using 2 toothed pulleys, a belt, windshield wiper motor, 12volt dc 10 amp supply and a cheap speed pwm motor speed control from china. I machined an extension that screws onto the end of the leadscrew to mount that pulley and similar on the motor. Now, I can fine tune the feedrate for tapering. I also added a sensor assembly and power controller to auto shutdown the powerfeed and the router when the carriage has reached the end of the wood....saves on router bits and live centers...lol
Dave
View attachment 507524

Dave, do you know vehicle that wiper motor fits? I want to add one to my set up...
Click to expand...

Basically any geared DC wiper motor can work, as long as there is a way to mount it, and there is enough of a threaded stud to mount the pulley to. I believe this one came from a jeep, don't remember for sure. I have a few....
Dave
Click to expand...
 
captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
Dave38 said:
captainjko said:
Basically any geared DC wiper motor can work, as long as there is a way to mount it, and there is enough of a threaded stud to mount the pulley to. I believe this one came from a jeep, don't remember for sure. I have a few....
Dave
Click to expand...

Thanks... The reason I asked was, the one I have has 5 wires on it. 3 of them ohm to ground and 2 do not. I have tried every way to get it to run and it will not. It may be bad. So I was going to buy one like yours if you knew what it came from....
Click to expand...
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
captainjko said:
Dave38 said:
Thanks... The reason I asked was, the one I have has 5 wires on it. 3 of them ohm to ground and 2 do not. I have tried every way to get it to run and it will not. It may be bad. So I was going to buy one like yours if you knew what it came from....
Click to expand...

If you know what yours came from or a part number, then you can lookup a wiring diagram. It may also just be bad. The older ones without intermittent wipers, are easier to hook up
Dave
Click to expand...
 
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