What do I want in my custom cue ??

Mickey Qualls

You study the watch......
Silver Member
I read stories on the forums, and when I get the chance I talk to people about why they chose this type of taper, or this joint, this tip, this ferrule, balance point, etc. I usually get an earful about the difference between a production cue and a custom cue.
And more often than not, I see or hear that these players go back to the cue they had prior to the custom job, because the custom "didn't like the way it hit", or something similar.

How does a player know what to order for thier own custom cue ?
 

dr9ball

"Lock Doctor"
Silver Member
I read stories on the forums, and when I get the chance I talk to people about why they chose this type of taper, or this joint, this tip, this ferrule, balance point, etc. I usually get an earful about the difference between a production cue and a custom cue.
And more often than not, I see or hear that these players go back to the cue they had prior to the custom job, because the custom "didn't like the way it hit", or something similar.

How does a player know what to order for thier own custom cue ?

Experience
 

Mr. Wiggles

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Cue specs

I read stories on the forums, and when I get the chance I talk to people about why they chose this type of taper, or this joint, this tip, this ferrule, balance point, etc. I usually get an earful about the difference between a production cue and a custom cue.
And more often than not, I see or hear that these players go back to the cue they had prior to the custom job, because the custom "didn't like the way it hit", or something similar.

How does a player know what to order for thier own custom cue ?

Foremost IMO would be shaft size, weight of cue, taper, in that order. Other things like ferrule material and tip can be changed anytime. The HIT of a cue is a combination of many variables but joint material and construction is probably the biggest. People swear by ivory or stainless joints, whatever! Hell, my joint is made from a cue ball and plays just fine. I just like different stuff. They say antler horn plays great! Forward weighted seems in vogue right now but I can pick up my full splice, butt heavy Bludworth and play pretty sporty. I will never get rid of my cheapest cue ever bought ($45) John Guffy sneaky pete. A true sneaky with invisible joint. Hit as many cues as you can and try to figure what you like which sometimes becomes eliminating things you don't like. Be advised there are some really great playing WOODEN shafts made by great cue makers as opposed to the LD craze which has swept the universe and maybe even the galaxy. Good luck in your journey for the greatest cue which we all pursue all our lives! If your a chump playing with a Zamboti, your still a chump!
 

brandoncook26

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Experience

What he said.

1. Try as many friend's cues as you can get your hands on. When you like something, measure it, weight it, etc.

2. Or, keep buying a butt load of cues and playing with them until you figure out what you want.

3. Or, have a cuemaker make his favorite type of cue and play with it until you're good with it.

That's about all I can think of.
 

strokerace

"The Hustler"
Silver Member
trail and trail

I agree with most posters here..i have been playing for 40+ years..always

used a Meucci..then i got a Steel jointed Joss way later on..then i wanted

a custom cue..and now to date i have owned more than 30 custom cues..

Scruggs..McDaniel..BlueGrass..Phillippi..Josswest..Southwest..Dieckman..

cues avarage price new around $2500..using their shaft..the nicest shaft

of all was the BlueGrass..but the hit was blunt..and i can go on and on

about the others..i tried other not so well known makers..Al Link..Jerry

Terbrock..Mark Moore..and others that guys had at the Hall..and i ended

up keeping the Wrapless Terbrock Cue..the cue balanced with me well and

the hit is Fluid..been using it now for 1 year constant..will never try go to

another cue..it sold for $1100 new..i paid $750 and its a Beauty..if i had

to sell this cue and buy a cheaper one..well..Meucci Original would be my

only choice!!!..To Order a cue and pay alot of money for it and it doesn't

"Feel" right would suck..i think thats why alot of high dollar cues are for sale..

when it feels right it will be right no matter the Cost or Specs of the Cue..SA
 
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Georgia Boy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would say experience, try as many cues as you can to get the basics of the cue. You want to know, up front, things like overall weight, overall length, taper, tip size, ferule type, joint type, wrap or no wrap, wood types. The hit is dependant upon many of these especially joint type in my opinion. What I will also be asking for on my next custom cue is a small extension that can screw into the butt, maybe 6-9".

Once you decide these you can decide the cosmetics of the cue, things like points, splices, inlays, rings etc.

Get the basics right first.
 

quadrary

Custom Leather Cue Cases
Silver Member
know what you want

first know that 95% of hit is in joint shaft ferule and tip. Then try as many cues as you can get your hands on making note of the type of the 4 things above used in that cue and compare one to another till you narrow down the type of joint then shaft type and taper then ferule tip combination then order that in the weight and balance point you want.
 

pwd72s

recreational banger
Silver Member
Have you tried a Keith Josey? Yeah I love mine. BUT...one thing I've noticed after having been here a few years. That is, others with Keith Josey cues have kind of settled into that groove. Not really collectables, they are just a great playing cue.
 
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