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09-23-2019, 06:46 AM

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Originally Posted by poolhustler View Post
Ohhh my bad … I thought this was a GC restoration thread. Didn't realize it changed to a Gabriel's table restoration thread. Thanks for clarifying Glen .. LOL
I thought it was a corvette restoration thread??
  
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Skirt Repair Completed
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rexus31
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Skirt Repair Completed - 09-23-2019, 07:08 AM

Pocket and I wrapped up the repair on his skirts yesterday. Using the mating pieces as a guide, we drilled the mounting holes. We test fit the pieces together and they are a perfect fit. Not RKC approved but effective nevertheless.





We are both going with nylon fasteners (5/16"-18x3/4") to secure the corners. They work great.



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Last edited by rexus31; 09-23-2019 at 11:47 AM.
  
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09-23-2019, 07:30 AM

Looks great Scott !!!


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09-23-2019, 07:37 AM

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Looks great Scott !!!
Thanks, man!


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09-23-2019, 07:37 AM

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Originally Posted by poolhustler View Post
Ohhh my bad … I thought this was a GC restoration thread. Didn't realize it changed to a Gabriel's table restoration thread. Thanks for clarifying Glen .. LOL
Look it up yourself😎

1. Alligatoring Paint

This occurs when*oil-based paints*have gone beyond their usable lives. As oil-based paints age, they become harder and more brittle.

This makes for a great hard finish on trim, windows and doors, but eventually they become too brittle to keep up with the constant expansion and contraction of wood. Soon, the paint starts cracking in a way that looks like a subway map of Manhattan
  
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realkingcobra
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09-23-2019, 07:44 AM

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Originally Posted by rexus31 View Post
Raffi (pocket) and I wrapped up the repair on his skirts yesterday. Using the mating pieces as a guide, we drilled the mounting holes. We test fit the pieces together and they are a perfect fit. Not RKC approved but effective nevertheless.





We are both going with nylon fasteners (5/16"-18x3/4") to secure the corners. They work great.

Spring clamps work real good, are easy to remove when you need to tighten the rail bolts later on. But who knows, maybe these experts on here will think rail bolts on a GC1 never come loose. But when you're putting the table together, take a look at the access to each rail bolt so you can see how ti get to it later on.
  
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09-23-2019, 07:54 AM

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Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
But when you're putting the table together, take a look at the access to each rail bolt so you can see how ti get to it later on.
Thanks. What's the torque spec for the rail bolts?


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09-23-2019, 07:55 AM

Isn’t it 15 ft pounds


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realkingcobra
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09-23-2019, 07:59 AM

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Originally Posted by rexus31 View Post
Thanks. What's the torque spec for the rail bolts?
Depends on the rail bolt anchors Steve rebuilds your rails with, but at least 12ftlbs for the factory anchors, and up to 15ft lbs for the threaded inserts Diamond uses.

Over tightening the rail bolts is what causes so many problems with the factory Brunswick capture nut used in the rails. You have a 1/4" thick nut, with 3 threads used to hold a 3/8"ths thick bolt tight. Because only a few threads are actually holding the rail bolt tight, over tightening them stretches the threads on the bolt. That's what happens when you got to take out the rail bolt and it locks up in place and won't back out, or when installing it, the threads no longer line up in the capture nut. Everyone just assumes the bolt was installed cross threaded, but it's not, the threads no longer match up.

The inserts we use in the Diamond rails have 1 1/8" inch of threads to tighten the bolts with, there is no thread stress with that much thread surface contact.

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rexus31
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09-23-2019, 08:12 AM

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Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
Depends on the rail bolt anchors Steve rebuilds your rails with, but at least 12ftlbs for the factory anchors, and up to 15ft lbs for the threaded inserts Diamond uses.

Over tightening the rail bolts is what causes so many problems with the factory Brunswick capture nut used in the rails. You have a 1/4" thick nut, with 3 threads used to hold a 3/8"ths thick bolt tight. Because only a few threads are actually holding the rail bolt tight, over tightening them stretches the threads on the bolt. That's what happens when you got to take out the rail bolt and it locks up in place and won't back out, or when installing it, the threads no longer line up in the capture nut. Everyone just assumes the bolt was installed cross threaded, but it's not, the threads no longer match up.

The inserts we use in the Diamond rails have 1 1/8" inch of threads to tighten the bolts with, there is no thread stress with that much thread surface contact.
Thanks. When we last spoke, Steve was on the fence on using threaded inserts or the OEM factory anchors.


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09-23-2019, 08:15 AM

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Thanks. When we last spoke, Steve was on the fence on using threaded inserts or the OEM factory anchors.
It's a lot more work to use the threaded inserts, and I don't know if Steve is set up to do that or not.
  
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09-23-2019, 08:22 AM

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Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
It's a lot more work to use the threaded inserts, and I don't know if Steve is set up to do that or not.
I believe he is.


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Ron Padilla
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09-23-2019, 08:50 AM

I turned wrenches all my life and there is one thing for sure and that is all bolts stretch when torqued to the mfg recommendations! At some point all bolts will fail maybe not so much in this case as that table has not been torn down very many times! But it is something to consider!


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09-23-2019, 09:21 AM

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Originally Posted by Ron Padilla View Post
I turned wrenches all my life and there is one thing for sure and that is all bolts stretch when torqued to the mfg recommendations! At some point all bolts will fail maybe not so much in this case as that table has not been torn down very many times! But it is something to consider!


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Ron Padilla
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09-23-2019, 09:46 AM

What occurs when torquing a dry bolt to spec is that it galled the metal and makes it difficult to both remove and reinstall! It has been mentioned some where on azb about using oil and was said that, you probably wouldn’t want to do that around a pool table! However some type of dry lube would do 2 things, allow for proper torque and easy removal when it come time for disassembly! Now someone is going to ask just what could be recommended to do that with out making a mess especially around a table with cloth! And to that I would say is search out the alternatives for a dry lube!


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