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10-09-2019, 05:54 AM

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Originally Posted by xianmacx View Post
2700 above grade with 2700 basement.

I am a big fan of the modern california houses. I tried to find a balance of modern but not looking too out of place in an Ohio neighborhood.
Why did I think you were in Oregon? My feeble old mind is playing tricks on me again. I grew up in Dayton and have spent time in just about every city (there used to be a lot of big cities in Ohio) and most every pool hall back in the 60's and 70's. Back then every major city had at least a dozen pool rooms! Oh the good old days.


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10-09-2019, 06:01 AM

It was interesting about the beam process. In my first meeting with builder, I explained my requirements of removing the 2 poles. The basement was originally going to be 9ft, but they used a 16" tall ibeam instead of 8" and switch all floor joist from 10" to 12". Since the beam was going to increase 8", I decided to go with 10" basement to compensate. The cost seemed reasonable to me, 3000$ to change to 12" joists and 1500$ for the larger ibeam.

The picture is a bit deceiving, but the ibeam is quite large.
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10-09-2019, 06:02 AM

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Originally Posted by xianmacx View Post
Thanks for sharing pics, I have a few questions for you if you don't mind.

1. What did you do to the floor? Is that stained concrete? It looks great.
2. My basement is unfinished as well and I plan on hanging LED panels from the floor joists as well. On the LED sites, I see pre-made hanging kits with wire and fittings. Did you use a pre-made hanging kit? Any other tips you can share? I have a feeling hanging the lights will be a bit tedious.
Granted you weren't asking me, I have used a product on several houses from home depot that I really love! They have this Behr three-part concrete stain system, first you apply an etcher, then primer, then stain. A lot of cool effects, they have the wet look sealer if you like the gloss look. It has been durable, and I couldn't be happier after several years.
  
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10-09-2019, 06:05 AM

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Originally Posted by jay helfert View Post
Why did I think you were in Oregon? My feeble old mind is playing tricks on me again. I grew up in Dayton and have spent time in just about every city (there used to be a lot of big cities in Ohio) and most every pool hall back in the 60's and 70's. Back then every major city had at least a dozen pool rooms! Oh the good old days.
Ha, yes I was confused when you said Oregon. Dee Adkins put on a big one pocket tournament last week just north of Cincy at Michaels. Many of the Dayton players were there.
  
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10-09-2019, 06:08 AM

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Originally Posted by xianmacx View Post
Thanks for sharing pics, I have a few questions for you if you don't mind.

1. What did you do to the floor? Is that stained concrete? It looks great.
2. My basement is unfinished as well and I plan on hanging LED panels from the floor joists as well. On the LED sites, I see pre-made hanging kits with wire and fittings. Did you use a pre-made hanging kit? Any other tips you can share? I have a feeling hanging the lights will be a bit tedious.
Iím leaving work now, but will reply in full when I get home. Lots of info to pass along.
  
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10-09-2019, 06:11 AM

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Originally Posted by Snooker Theory View Post
Granted you weren't asking me, I have used a product on several houses from home depot that I really love! They have this Behr three-part concrete stain system, first you apply an etcher, then primer, then stain. A lot of cool effects, they have the wet look sealer if you like the gloss look. It has been durable, and I couldn't be happier after several years.
Thank you for sharing, that sounds interesting. I just looked on behr site and reading about it now...
  
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10-09-2019, 06:36 AM

Looks like its coming along great! Those prices for the upgraded beams and etc are really fair. Usually cost more for just the engineering plans/certification.
  
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10-10-2019, 04:25 AM

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Originally Posted by xianmacx View Post
It was interesting about the beam process. In my first meeting with builder, I explained my requirements of removing the 2 poles. The basement was originally going to be 9ft, but they used a 16" tall ibeam instead of 8" and switch all floor joist from 10" to 12". Since the beam was going to increase 8", I decided to go with 10" basement to compensate. The cost seemed reasonable to me, 3000$ to change to 12" joists and 1500$ for the larger ibeam.

The picture is a bit deceiving, but the ibeam is quite large.
This was the best move on your part. Just eliminate the poles.
The builder, architect and I went offsetting the ibeam and going with 16' joists on one side with 12 foot joists on the other...Already had 12" joists with planned 9 ft ceilings unfinished...so this gave me the 16 feet I requested at no extra cost. The 10 foot table is playable from all angles with a full size cue, but in the end I still wish the beam wasn't there for possible seating. So good choice in pushing for the steel ibeam upgrade.



As far as the basement floor goes, I didn't want to go with anything too permanent since I was still unsure of how I wanted the floor. I really wanted to keep the concrete look, but then I remembered about how my knees feel shudder some long sessions playing on a hard concrete floor.
So I've done some research and there were industrial grade carpet tiles with foam backing that feel great (home depot website). My next project is to install a foam backed carpet tile standing surface on the 5 feet all around the tables. But for now, I went with 3 coats of Behr Wetlook Sealer from Lowes. It was my cheap option and I applied it myself. To go more permanent, a flooring company can polish the cement to give it a permanent shiny look (like you would see in the floor of home depot). There are also Epoxy clear products that can be applied to give it a more durable and shiny finish. But you have to factor in the wear and tear of the product.
In its second year, the Behr Sealer has started peeling up in areas of high traffic (the kids have a circuit they drive with their scooters and big wheels and it's starting to show). But at least the sealer allowed me to seal in the concrete and prevent the dust from taking over the basement.

I had a company come in and seal the basement right after it was finished and that sealer absorbed right into the concrete and dried out in a matter of months. The basement will be curing and drying for a while (also moisture is elevated in the area while this is happening) I noticed in the second year, the moisture level dropped significantly.

So the decision is to carpet or not to carpet...I like the compromise of a playing surface of cushioned carpet tile so I can still get that industrial concrete floor look in the rest of the basement. But definitely something to stand on is a must for comfort in playing long hours.
  
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10-10-2019, 04:52 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by xianmacx View Post
Thanks for sharing pics, I have a few questions for you if you don't mind.

1. What did you do to the floor? Is that stained concrete? It looks great.
2. My basement is unfinished as well and I plan on hanging LED panels from the floor joists as well. On the LED sites, I see pre-made hanging kits with wire and fittings. Did you use a pre-made hanging kit? Any other tips you can share? I have a feeling hanging the lights will be a bit tedious.
I purchased my lights through Lite-Systems.com and I'm extremely satisfied with them. They have these installation devices that feed through the steel aviation wire that attaches to the frame of the light. I thought it was pretty innovative and it was really easy to install the lights and level them out at the desired height.





I'll update this with a close-up of the actual hanging device that locks in the wire and when pressed, can release the wire as well.
If you click on the images above and zoom in on the full sized image you can see the installation gadget Lite-Systems sent me.
  
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10-11-2019, 08:43 AM

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Originally Posted by Cardigan Kid View Post
This was the best move on your part. Just eliminate the poles.
The builder, architect and I went offsetting the ibeam and going with 16' joists on one side with 12 foot joists on the other...Already had 12" joists with planned 9 ft ceilings unfinished...so this gave me the 16 feet I requested at no extra cost. The 10 foot table is playable from all angles with a full size cue, but in the end I still wish the beam wasn't there for possible seating. So good choice in pushing for the steel ibeam upgrade.


As far as the basement floor goes, I didn't want to go with anything too permanent since I was still unsure of how I wanted the floor. I really wanted to keep the concrete look, but then I remembered about how my knees feel shudder some long sessions playing on a hard concrete floor.
So I've done some research and there were industrial grade carpet tiles with foam backing that feel great (home depot website). My next project is to install a foam backed carpet tile standing surface on the 5 feet all around the tables. But for now, I went with 3 coats of Behr Wetlook Sealer from Lowes. It was my cheap option and I applied it myself. To go more permanent, a flooring company can polish the cement to give it a permanent shiny look (like you would see in the floor of home depot). There are also Epoxy clear products that can be applied to give it a more durable and shiny finish. But you have to factor in the wear and tear of the product.
In its second year, the Behr Sealer has started peeling up in areas of high traffic (the kids have a circuit they drive with their scooters and big wheels and it's starting to show). But at least the sealer allowed me to seal in the concrete and prevent the dust from taking over the basement.

I had a company come in and seal the basement right after it was finished and that sealer absorbed right into the concrete and dried out in a matter of months. The basement will be curing and drying for a while (also moisture is elevated in the area while this is happening) I noticed in the second year, the moisture level dropped significantly.

So the decision is to carpet or not to carpet...I like the compromise of a playing surface of cushioned carpet tile so I can still get that industrial concrete floor look in the rest of the basement. But definitely something to stand on is a must for comfort in playing long hours.
Thanks you for the detailed response. I have similar thoughts, not sure if I will change my mind for carpet in the future. I will get the wetlook sealer and test a few areas.

You mentioned having come in and seal the basement? what was the reason for this?
  
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10-11-2019, 08:46 AM

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I purchased my lights through Lite-Systems.com and I'm extremely satisfied with them. They have these installation devices that feed through the steel aviation wire that attaches to the frame of the light. I thought it was pretty innovative and it was really easy to install the lights and level them out at the desired height.



I'll update this with a close-up of the actual hanging device that locks in the wire and when pressed, can release the wire as well.
If you click on the images above and zoom in on the full sized image you can see the installation gadget Lite-Systems sent me.

Thanks for sharing the link. I plan on finishing my basement down the road and so currently looking for a less expensive lighting option. I found a wire kit that is supposed to allow for easy install of the LED panels you can buy at home depot. I will report back how they work.

I always wondered if you could stand on a table if needed. I guess this image answers that question as well.

Ian
  
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10-11-2019, 08:59 AM

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Originally Posted by xianmacx View Post
Thanks for sharing the link. I plan on finishing my basement down the road and so currently looking for a less expensive lighting option. I found a wire kit that is supposed to allow for easy install of the LED panels you can buy at home depot. I will report back how they work.

I always wondered if you could stand on a table if needed. I guess this image answers that question as well.

Ian
Ian, if a pool table won't support your weight, you don't want that table. We always got on the table to repair or replace lights.


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10-12-2019, 10:28 PM

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Thanks you for the detailed response. I have similar thoughts, not sure if I will change my mind for carpet in the future. I will get the wetlook sealer and test a few areas.

You mentioned having come in and seal the basement? what was the reason for this?
After the basement floor is poured and cured, it continues to dry, the #1 issue was the dust....we were fighting dust for half a year after completion of the houseó upstairs there was the drywall dust that got in every crack and crevice and just seemed to emerge around the hardwood floors. But the basement would generate dust at willóas in unlimited and never ending dust.

In anticipation of this, I had a concrete flooring company come in to seal the basement floor...all 1,800 sq feet of it, about a month after it was poured. They used a spray application industrial sealer that when applied was to lock in the concrete...so the top layer doesnít dry out. The problem was that only lasted about 3 months and Iím guessing it was absorbed into the concrete, the result was never ending dust once again. Even after multiple sweeps and mopping. The floor would dry and you could run a broom over it and generate concrete dust.

So I determined multiple coats of sealer was needed.

There are more expensive options I could have gone óbut at the time, we were using the extra funds for furniture and whatnot.

I wanted to do an acid etch/stain on the concreteówhich there are many options, and then lock it in with a wet look sealer. But, I know my limitations and didnít want to screw it up. The quote for that in the basement was around $2.50 sq/ft or $5,000 for the entire basement....a little too steep for an area i may be covering with carpet tile.

Then there is the epoxy flooring which looks great and lasts foreveróbut say goodbye to the concrete look. Those are popular in garages, oil spills clean nicely on them. Those can be applied with metal flake for design or they have really beautiful additives and coloring options to give it a deep artistic look. This is also the most expensive option. I believe I was quoted at $5 sq/ft in my garage. If I wanted to do it myself, the epoxy product alone at Home Depot was around $1,000 for the 1,000 sq feet area in my garage. Again, there was also the risk of possibly screwing it up and having something permanently applied that needs to be ground off to go back to base concrete and start over.

So I went with option 3 and for about $300 I purchase many gallons of the Behr wetlook sealer and using a paint roller and pole handle, applied three coats to the basement floor. The dust stopped and the concrete was sealed in. The product has worked really well, but I have to make a decision soon, because with all the foot traffic around the pool tables, the sealer is starting to scratch and peel away, and a reapplication will be needed.

I want to research a concrete polishing serviceówhich is basically someone with a large circular buffer continually buffs the concrete with an applied product and brings it to a glassy shine. Itís what I was told all the floors of Home Depotís and Loweís have. This is a rugged, but permanent way to take care of the dust. Not as glossy as the epoxy, but not as susceptible to scratches and peeling as the sealer is. If I could rent the machine, I might be able to do it myself. Just another thing to put on the list of stuff to do.
  
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11-15-2019, 09:19 PM

Just closed on house Tuesday. Jack and Todd are coming tomorrow to move and setup the tables. Here is the billiard table ready to go.












  
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11-16-2019, 10:33 AM

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Just closed on house Tuesday. Jack and Todd are coming tomorrow to move and setup the tables. Here is the billiard table ready to go.












Love the home. Stair rails are especially slick, imo. Love the kitchen too...wait, did you steal mine? Lolol. I suspect you will enjoy your new domicile.
  
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