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Custom Revo Weight Choices - balance point
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Custom Revo Weight Choices - balance point - 10-29-2019, 01:46 PM

Now that Predator allows you to choose between 3.5oz, 4.0oz, and 4.5oz; how would you go about deciding which weight is going to be best.

Assuming you are ordering the shaft for an existing butt, I guess you could just decide what you want your total cue weight to be and let that guide your decision.

I'm wondering if it's worth it to find the balance point with another shaft on the cue and decide if you want more or less weight forward just based on feel.

Is there some generally accepted ideal balance point for a cue?
  
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10-29-2019, 02:49 PM

I feel like anyone sensitive to a balance point should have a weight bolt kit and focus more on moving them forward and back in the butt. Im not sure Id let shaft weight be a driving factor in balance expectations.


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10-29-2019, 02:54 PM

With any cue I ever owned it was a matter of I liked it or didn't. Especially shafts. Never considered it's weight.





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10-29-2019, 03:13 PM

When I'm ever in doubt about something and I have no idea what to do, I usually pick the middle size.
  
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10-29-2019, 04:24 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolfiend View Post
Now that Predator allows you to choose between 3.5oz, 4.0oz, and 4.5oz; how would you go about deciding which weight is going to be best.

Assuming you are ordering the shaft for an existing butt, I guess you could just decide what you want your total cue weight to be and let that guide your decision.

I'm wondering if it's worth it to find the balance point with another shaft on the cue and decide if you want more or less weight forward just based on feel.

Is there some generally accepted ideal balance point for a cue?
Do this:

Find a revo shaft that will fit your cue.

Weigh the shaft.

Subtract the shaft weight from "your ideal" shaft weight.

Use ^^^^^^^^^^ result to add lead tape to the bottom two inches of the shaft.

Take medical paper-tape (very thin and will not hurt the shaft) and put one layer around shaft. Then weigh out enough of the lead tape to make the shaft equal your desired weight and put it on top of the paper tape.

Run a few drills with it.

Add a little and do the drills again.

Take some off and do them again.

Other that^^^^^^^^:

Weight bolts in cue butt or a mid-cue extension.

Good luck,

Jeff


I knew a fellow that thought he was a good boxer because he was in a position to befriend a lot of "professional boxers". It cost him azzwhippens till he realized he wasn't what he thought/wished he was.

Do you know anyone like the "wannabe" boxer in the pool world?
  
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10-29-2019, 04:35 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolfiend View Post
Now that Predator allows you to choose between 3.5oz, 4.0oz, and 4.5oz; how would you go about deciding which weight is going to be best.

Assuming you are ordering the shaft for an existing butt, I guess you could just decide what you want your total cue weight to be and let that guide your decision.

I'm wondering if it's worth it to find the balance point with another shaft on the cue and decide if you want more or less weight forward just based on feel.

Is there some generally accepted ideal balance point for a cue?
These days neutral balance point is around 18 to 19 inches from the bottom when the cue is joined ( 58" cue ).
Below 18 would be rear balanced.
Beyond 19" would be considered forward balanced.


  
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10-29-2019, 05:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyInCali View Post
These days neutral balance point is around 18 to 19 inches from the bottom when the cue is joined ( 58" cue ).
Below 18 would be rear balanced.
Beyond 19" would be considered forward balanced.
True.....

And depending on where his cue butt is balanced will determine which shaft weight he would want to order.

The cue butt weight as a whole doesn't matter when talking about balance. I learned a long time ago that a heavy and light cue can have the same balance point or two light cues may differ in balance point by a great deal.

Some people don't think it matters. To me, its very important.

Jeff


I knew a fellow that thought he was a good boxer because he was in a position to befriend a lot of "professional boxers". It cost him azzwhippens till he realized he wasn't what he thought/wished he was.

Do you know anyone like the "wannabe" boxer in the pool world?
  
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10-29-2019, 09:17 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MattPoland View Post
I feel like anyone sensitive to a balance point should have a weight bolt kit and focus more on moving them forward and back in the butt. Im not sure Id let shaft weight be a driving factor in balance expectations.


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if you need a forward balanced cue it helps if your shaft is on the heavier side of things. theres only so much you can do with weight bolts. If you like back balanced cues it's easier to get what you want.
  
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10-29-2019, 10:04 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkspider View Post
if you need a forward balanced cue it helps if your shaft is on the heavier side of things. theres only so much you can do with weight bolts. If you like back balanced cues it's easier to get what you want.
Another true statement.

I have to have a forward balanced cue. I prefer my cues balance point between 19.5 and 20 inches from very end of butt when butt and shaft together.

Its hard to get that with most production cues. What I've always done for production cues to move the point that far forward is to have the wood drilled out of butt......

Only thing is, it's not usually a good idea to remove the entire amount from the same area. I had my cue guy take a .24" bit with a very long extension and remove half of desired weight from about two inches behind the A-joint. Then use a 3/8" bit to take the remaining weight as far back as possible without damaging weight bolt threads in case I decide to sell or trade it.

^^^^^^^^^^^ way has worked very well for me. It keeps the butt more balanced IMO, and will not change the hit the maker intended......much...lol.

Just make sure your cue guy knows what he is doing and make sure you know what you want before doing it cause its easy to remove wood from a-joint area but extremely hard to put back....if at all.

Lead tape and paper tape is your friend for RnD.

Jeff


I knew a fellow that thought he was a good boxer because he was in a position to befriend a lot of "professional boxers". It cost him azzwhippens till he realized he wasn't what he thought/wished he was.

Do you know anyone like the "wannabe" boxer in the pool world?
  
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10-29-2019, 10:48 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrctherake View Post
Another true statement.

I have to have a forward balanced cue. I prefer my cues balance point between 19.5 and 20 inches from very end of butt when butt and shaft together.

Its hard to get that with most production cues. What I've always done for production cues to move the point that far forward is to have the wood drilled out of butt......

Only thing is, it's not usually a good idea to remove the entire amount from the same area. I had my cue guy take a .24" bit with a very long extension and remove half of desired weight from about two inches behind the A-joint. Then use a 3/8" bit to take the remaining weight as far back as possible without damaging weight bolt threads in case I decide to sell or trade it.

^^^^^^^^^^^ way has worked very well for me. It keeps the butt more balanced IMO, and will not change the hit the maker intended......much...lol.

Just make sure your cue guy knows what he is doing and make sure you know what you want before doing it cause its easy to remove wood from a-joint area but extremely hard to put back....if at all.

Lead tape and paper tape is your friend for RnD.

Jeff
One trick I picked up is, if you have a non-insert joint (ie 3/8-10, radial, etc) is to experiment by adding washers in between your shaft and your butt so you can see if adding a certain weight around the joint area can shift the balance closer to your ideal. If it does and if you have space in your shaft (measure the depth first) you can add a weight like lead putty or something. Im not sure if it is reversible though.

Mezz also has a sws shaft weight system that pretty much does the same thing. But usually a denser shaft is more ideal
  
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10-29-2019, 11:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkspider View Post
One trick I picked up is, if you have a non-insert joint (ie 3/8-10, radial, etc) is to experiment by adding washers in between your shaft and your butt so you can see if adding a certain weight around the joint area can shift the balance closer to your ideal. If it does and if you have space in your shaft (measure the depth first) you can add a weight like lead putty or something. Im not sure if it is reversible though.

Mezz also has a sws shaft weight system that pretty much does the same thing. But usually a denser shaft is more ideal
Great minds think alike. I did the washers a few times. Only reason I didn't mention it was because I only had bigger (diameter wise) washers and I almost damaged my table because the washers was sticking out a lot and I forgot about it and got in my normal stance with cue close to level.

It would have really, really sucked because it was less than a week after a recover.

It works like a charm though. Great suggestion.

Jeff


I knew a fellow that thought he was a good boxer because he was in a position to befriend a lot of "professional boxers". It cost him azzwhippens till he realized he wasn't what he thought/wished he was.

Do you know anyone like the "wannabe" boxer in the pool world?
  
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10-30-2019, 05:42 AM

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Originally Posted by jrctherake View Post
Great minds think alike. I did the washers a few times. Only reason I didn't mention it was because I only had bigger (diameter wise) washers and I almost damaged my table because the washers was sticking out a lot and I forgot about it and got in my normal stance with cue close to level.

It would have really, really sucked because it was less than a week after a recover.

It works like a charm though. Great suggestion.

Jeff
high five.. i think OP by now should have more than enough info to work with. plus a bonus tip not to try the washer experiment on his own table lol
  
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10-30-2019, 05:57 AM

I like the washer idea and will probably experiment with it.

However, NB for the less familiar/machine oriented: Not all washers are created flat. Grade 8 & mostly grade 5 usually are. Plain old stamped "washers" often aren't & can even sometimes have burrs that will mar if not damage the joint faces.

Main point being if you stack up a couple or 3 plain unflat washers for an experiment, and your cue seems to shoot funny, is it due to the weight/balance or is it due to no longer being straight with the washers installed?

smt
  
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10-30-2019, 07:10 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssonerai View Post
I like the washer idea and will probably experiment with it.

However, NB for the less familiar/machine oriented: Not all washers are created flat. Grade 8 & mostly grade 5 usually are. Plain old stamped "washers" often aren't & can even sometimes have burrs that will mar if not damage the joint faces.

Main point being if you stack up a couple or 3 plain unflat washers for an experiment, and your cue seems to shoot funny, is it due to the weight/balance or is it due to no longer being straight with the washers installed?

smt
exercise prudence i guess?

well if the faces have burrs definitely its risky placing it against the joint face of your cue. if the washers arent flush and theres a gap in between then i wouldnt risk hitting a ball if there a risk that i may damage the shaft threads

i cant speak for jeff but for myself i would just get into my shooting stance and stroke the cue. i wouldnt even bother to strike the ball. im only interested to see if the balance point shifts sufficiently/favourably enough before i bother to explore further. if you happen to have a friend that has the mezz powerbreak 2 the washers are pretty handy for this if the pin can fit through hole. assuming that theres enough clearance of course
  
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10-30-2019, 07:31 AM

Thanks everyone for the thoughtful advice and suggestions.

My cue weighs exactly 16oz without the shaft. It's a cog so it's a little shorter than standard.

I measured the balance point this morning with a 29" shaft that weighs 3.8oz. It felt pretty good and the balance point was 18.25" from the butt. I think I'm going to go with the 4oz shaft. That will put the cue at exactly 20oz with about an 18.5" balance point.

Thanks again.
  
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