To sand or not to........?
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Question To sand or not to........? - 09-29-2019, 06:39 AM

Please correct me if i'm all-wet here but doesn't superglue work better with two smooth surfaces? When installing a tip is it better to lightly sand the tip or just leave it smooth as is? Thanks
  
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09-29-2019, 07:11 AM

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Originally Posted by garczar View Post
Please correct me if i'm all-wet here but doesn't superglue work better with two smooth surfaces? When installing a tip is it better to lightly sand the tip or just leave it smooth as is? Thanks
You want to remove whatever impurities are on that top shiny layer and allow better glue absorption.

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09-29-2019, 07:27 AM

Another reason for sanding the tip is to get it absolutely flat. Many tips are not flat on the glue side out of the box.
My 2 cents
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Thumbs up 09-29-2019, 08:00 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBCues View Post
Another reason for sanding the tip is to get it absolutely flat. Many tips are not flat on the glue side out of the box.
My 2 cents
Gary
Great point. Didn't even think about the being flat part.
  
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09-29-2019, 12:02 PM

Face off the ferrule. Sand your tip on a flat surface, I use a granite surface plate and some 180 grit paper. Blow off dust and debris with compressed air. Before you glue, check that both surfaces are totally flat against each other. use some denatured alchol to remove any fingermarks or other contaminants, let it dry, the glue the tip on.



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09-29-2019, 12:06 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim Bye View Post
Face off the ferrule. Sand your tip on a flat surface, I use a granite surface plate and some 180 grit paper. Blow off dust and debris with compressed air. Before you glue, check that both surfaces are totally flat against each other. use some denatured alchol to remove any fingermarks or other contaminants, let it dry, the glue the tip on.
Those are really good instructions.

Thank you
  
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09-29-2019, 12:16 PM

I sand leather tips flat with 220. Kamui Clear with 320 or 400. Face the ferrule with a razor, then briefly touch with 220 while still spinning.
Surfaces should be clean and flat, but lightly scuffed. NEVER score or drill the ferrule face in an attempt to make superglue work better. It wont.


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09-30-2019, 01:43 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by garczar View Post
Please correct me if i'm all-wet here but doesn't superglue work better with two smooth surfaces? When installing a tip is it better to lightly sand the tip or just leave it smooth as is? Thanks
One more important reason to sand the bottom of the tip a bit. Some tips have a coating, such as Le Pro and Triangle. It's probably some kind of enamel mixture, but you want to glue the leather to the pad or ferrule, not a tip coating.

All the best,
WW
  
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10-01-2019, 05:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim Bye View Post
Face off the ferrule. Sand your tip on a flat surface, I use a granite surface plate and some 180 grit paper. Blow off dust and debris with compressed air. Before you glue, check that both surfaces are totally flat against each other. use some denatured alchol to remove any fingermarks or other contaminants, let it dry, the glue the tip on.
Couldnít say it better; best advice here for a great install.
  
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10-01-2019, 11:27 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim Bye View Post
Face off the ferrule. Sand your tip on a flat surface, I use a granite surface plate and some 180 grit paper. Blow off dust and debris with compressed air. Before you glue, check that both surfaces are totally flat against each other. use some denatured alchol to remove any fingermarks or other contaminants, let it dry, the glue the tip on.
I understand eliminating the possible debris on the cue, but whatís the correlation between oil and super glue for finish bonding that makes it not viable for tips? Far too many threads on super glue finishes that mention oil prep. I find that a little skin oil from my nose rubbed on the tip and ferrule face before I glue a tip on has eliminated tips popping off for me. As in Iíve have zero failures since Iíve adopted this method. I used to use denatured alcohol to clean the ferrule after facing, I had failures with that method. Only failures I get now are from deformed thermoform plastic failures, or faulty tips. Glue bond remains strong.

And if youíre installing a malleable material tip, it doesnít need to be perfectly flat. Just close enough. The glue will slightly expand the material through absorption and the pressure applied to the tip during glue up will cause the tip to form to the ferrule end anyways. Does not apply for backed tips, clear or fiber. Or the majority of break tips.
  
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To sand or not to........?
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To sand or not to........? - 10-04-2019, 05:34 AM

The reason combining oil with CA works for finishing is the same reason it might not work for tips.

That reason is the CA cures much slower,and maybe not at all without help when you add oil.

This is why I've been wiping the ferrule with denatured alcohol for as long as I can remember,but I also prefer Loctite Pro which is a super fast setting CA,and it works 100% of the time if the ferrule is clean. Tommy D.


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10-04-2019, 06:30 AM

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Originally Posted by garczar View Post
Please correct me if i'm all-wet here but doesn't superglue work better with two smooth surfaces? When installing a tip is it better to lightly sand the tip or just leave it smooth as is? Thanks
From Scotch Brand Superglue Site.....
“For a better hold on smooth surfaces gently rough up the spot you plan to glue with sandpaper or steel wool first.”

https://www.scotchbrand.com/3M/en_US...er-glue-guide/

Adding a sprinkle of Baking Soda before application of superglue makes the bond stronger.
I can build a balsa wood airplane in a couple of days using this method.
I don’t think it would help with tips, too hard to remove later.
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10-04-2019, 12:33 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hits 'em Hard View Post
I understand eliminating the possible debris on the cue, but whatís the correlation between oil and super glue for finish bonding that makes it not viable for tips? Far too many threads on super glue finishes that mention oil prep. I find that a little skin oil from my nose rubbed on the tip and ferrule face before I glue a tip on has eliminated tips popping off for me. As in Iíve have zero failures since Iíve adopted this method. I used to use denatured alcohol to clean the ferrule after facing, I had failures with that method. Only failures I get now are from deformed thermoform plastic failures, or faulty tips. Glue bond remains strong.

And if youíre installing a malleable material tip, it doesnít need to be perfectly flat. Just close enough. The glue will slightly expand the material through absorption and the pressure applied to the tip during glue up will cause the tip to form to the ferrule end anyways. Does not apply for backed tips, clear or fiber. Or the majority of break tips.
your talking about using BLO and CA and it forms an elastomer your nose oil is doing nothing to help the tip stay on. DNA can mess with some plastics your process is probably just better now.
  
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