Trying to become a fan of LD

Gaelic7

Registered
I’ve now tested out a few LD shafts. Honestly am not seeing a big difference between these and solid maple shafts. At least not as large of a difference as I expected.

The amount of change in my aim adjustment seems to be minimal across the entire spectrum of shots. Wondering if it’s the physics of my stroke, squirt, etc? Has anyone else noticed this?

P.S. Most of my play is on 8’ Olhausen and 9’ Gold crown, both w/ Simonis 860.
 

DecentShot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’ve now tested out a few LD shafts. Honestly am not seeing a big difference between these and solid maple shafts. At least not as large of a difference as I expected.

The amount of change in my aim adjustment seems to be minimal across the entire spectrum of shots. Wondering if it’s the physics of my stroke, squirt, etc? Has anyone else noticed this?

P.S. Most of my play is on 8’ Olhausen and 9’ Gold crown, both w/ Simonis 860.

The point of an LD shaft is so you don't have to adjust your aiming, the aiming stays the same, its just the CB stays on its line "better."
 

336Robin

Multiverse Operative
Silver Member
I’ve now tested out a few LD shafts. Honestly am not seeing a big difference between these and solid maple shafts. At least not as large of a difference as I expected.

The amount of change in my aim adjustment seems to be minimal across the entire spectrum of shots. Wondering if it’s the physics of my stroke, squirt, etc? Has anyone else noticed this?

P.S. Most of my play is on 8’ Olhausen and 9’ Gold crown, both w/ Simonis 860.

If you used a lot of spin you would notice quite a big difference.
 

Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
I’ve now tested out a few LD shafts. Honestly am not seeing a big difference between these and solid maple shafts. At least not as large of a difference as I expected.

The amount of change in my aim adjustment seems to be minimal across the entire spectrum of shots. Wondering if it’s the physics of my stroke, squirt, etc? Has anyone else noticed this?
Some actual amounts for comparison:

Let's say an average shot length is 30" - over that distance a typical regular-squirt cue squirts up to 1/2" to 1" more than a typical low-squirt cue.

pj
chgo
 
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Island Drive

Otto/Dads College Roommate/Cleveland Browns
Silver Member
I’ve now tested out a few LD shafts. Honestly am not seeing a big difference between these and solid maple shafts. At least not as large of a difference as I expected.

The amount of change in my aim adjustment seems to be minimal across the entire spectrum of shots. Wondering if it’s the physics of my stroke, squirt, etc? Has anyone else noticed this?

P.S. Most of my play is on 8’ Olhausen and 9’ Gold crown, both w/ Simonis 860.

Set up a draw shot....you should notice the difference.

If your not playing at a high level yet and are unable to draw a shot....lets say 5' straight back, then that's totally understandable. What I've found, getting back into it, the cloth slippage with backspin is waaaaaaaaay more than lets say the Simonis of the 90's. And now hard tips I'm hearing are not allowing LD shafts to do their work as easily as with the soft tips. Quite a change from the days of ivory ferrules when it was just the opposite. There are tho some woods that I know must play this way, as I heard Busty still uses wood, tho it may be wood with a LD core. Never did ask em.
 

DecentShot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Set up a draw shot....you should notice the difference.

If your not playing at a high level yet and are unable to draw a shot....lets say 5' straight back, then that's totally understandable. What I've found, getting back into it, the cloth slippage with backspin is waaaaaaaaay more than lets say the Simonis of the 90's. And now hard tips I'm hearing are not allowing LD shafts to do their work as easily as with the soft tips. Quite a change from the days of ivory ferrules when it was just the opposite. There are tho some woods that I know must play this way, as I heard Busty still uses wood, tho it may be wood with a LD core. Never did ask em.

Zan medium + LD = Control heaven.
 

Island Drive

Otto/Dads College Roommate/Cleveland Browns
Silver Member
Zan medium + LD = Control heaven.

Since I'm trying different tips (3 so far) in one week, where is the lea$t expensive supplier of this tip? Have not found one that meets my needs yet.
Thx for your help.
 

HawaiianEye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member

Island Drive

Otto/Dads College Roommate/Cleveland Browns
Silver Member
If you like soft layered tips, try an Ultra-skin black soft.

I have them on my carbon and wood shafts.

They are cheap. You can get 10 for about the same price you pay for one Kamui and I think they are 100 times better.

https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?p=6576037#post6576037

Yeah, that's one on my list, I did see em on AZ for about 2.50 + $3 shipping. if you buy ten. I'll get the 10 pack mixture of em and see how that goes. I just talked with Brunstedder today, and that was his recommendation, but Jerry grew up on Elkmasters/Me La Pro, also trying next week/Milkduds..... thx
 

DecentShot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Since I'm trying different tips (3 so far) in one week, where is the lea$t expensive supplier of this tip? Have not found one that meets my needs yet.
Thx for your help.

Lost in the expense of all my hobbies, I don't even think about the price of a tip. But I will say Zan has the beautiful "grippy" feel of a sniper tip, but without the hollow feel (and sniper's fall apart), Zan Med. have a wonderful full feeling while still gripping the CB for whatever you need to do.
 

Island Drive

Otto/Dads College Roommate/Cleveland Browns
Silver Member
Lost in the expense of all my hobbies, I don't even think about the price of a tip. But I will say Zan has the beautiful "grippy" feel of a sniper tip, but without the hollow feel (and sniper's fall apart), Zan Med. have a wonderful full feeling while still gripping the CB for whatever you need to do.

Since I used to play at a High level, I'm able to judge tip differences quickly. I grew up playing Varner, when hard tips were the preferred choice.

Fats used to put tips in his pockets, with his Money/sweat/body oils and at times would lick em to help cure em.

Evelyn said this helped cure the leather.

NowaDAZE............ there are so many choices, I have no clue I at a restart.

Never played with a measels ball, now I am, never played with an LD shaft, just got two, have not played on the new cloth, now I am.

I used to play with a 13mm, now it's a 12.75.

So I'm searching for what works for my style of play and the right mix.

There are soooooo many different choices, it will take awhile before I figure out whats best for my game.

I may even go to a new cue, time will tell.

I thank you all your thoughts. BM
 
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Gaelic7

Registered
Some actual amounts for comparison:

Let's say an average shot length is 30" - over that distance a typical regular-squirt cue squirts 1/2" to 1" more than a typical low-squirt cue.

pj
chgo

That is substantial, and more than I would’ve guessed. Am wondering though, how much aim adjusted is required for 1/2” difference at 30” away?
 

Straightpool_99

I see dead balls
Silver Member
Is this true? I’ve played an LD shaft for a long time. Never used a soft tip. Maybe I’m missing out!



Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums

Nope, its weapons grade baloney. Shaft will deflect with or without soft tips.

Probably good reasons to use a soft tip. I personally can't think of any, but maybe someone else can? You get more spin? NOPE. You get more control? Well, personally I like to feel my tip hitting the ball, rather than trying to gauge a feather bouncing off a marshmellow. Can you jump full cue with it? NOPE, at least not half as well as with something harder. Can you break with a soft tip? You really shouldn't if you want to keep it soft. Does the tip wear faster? Hell yes. Most players who play with soft tips take the tip down significantly as well, to get some measure of feeling with what the hell is going on with the cueball. You need that when you have a wad of pillow stuffing on the ferrule. Guess what happens when you take down the tip like that? The tip starts out lower, and now it hardens up faster and wears out faster. Once it's hard, it starts playing better, because duh. Then the cycle continues, the player buys a new soft tip, which plays like crap until it hardens up again.

The only real reason I've come up with is trying to take speed off the cueball. IMO it doesn't work great for that either. Stroke work will do that job a lot better. There are also a couple of specialty shots, that come up more often in carom than pool, where I will admit the soft tip is preferable. One is the "nip-draw". There are a couple of others, but again, they are rare and IMO not worth it.
 
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HawaiianEye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Since I used to play at a High level, I'm able to judge tip differences quickly. I grew up playing Varner, when hard tips were the preferred choice.

Fats used to put tips in his pockets, with his Money/sweat/body oils and at times would lick em to help cure em.

Evelyn said this helped cure the leather.

NowaDAZE............ there are so many choices, I have no clue I at a restart.

Never played with a measels ball, now I am, never played with an LD shaft, just got two, have not played on the new cloth, now I am.

I used to play with a 13mm, now it's a 12.75.

So I'm searching for what works for my style of play and the right mix.

There are soooooo many different choices, it will take awhile before I figure out whats best for my game.

I may even go to a new cue, time will tell.

I thank you all your thoughts. BM

Try a Becue and you may quit looking for cues.
 

HawaiianEye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Nope, its weapons grade baloney. Shaft will deflect with or without soft tips.

Probably good reasons to use a soft tip. I personally can't think of any, but maybe someone else can? You get more spin? NOPE. You get more control? Well, personally I like to feel my tip hitting the ball, rather than trying to gauge a feather bouncing off a marshmellow. Can you jump full cue with it? NOPE, at least not half as well as with something harder. Can you break with a soft tip? You really shouldn't if you want to keep it soft. Does the tip wear faster? Hell yes. Most players who play with soft tips take the tip down significantly as well, to get some measure of feeling with what the hell is going on with the cueball. You need that when you have a wad of pillow stuffing on the ferrule. Guess what happens when you take down the tip like that? The tip starts out lower, and now it hardens up faster and wears out faster. Once it's hard, it starts playing better, because duh. Then the cycle continues, the player buys a new soft tip, which plays like crap until it hardens up again.

The only real reason I've come up with is trying to take speed off the cueball. IMO it doesn't work great for that either. Stroke work will do that job a lot better. There are also a couple of specialty shots, that come up more often in carom than pool, where I will admit the soft tip is preferable. One is the "nip-draw". There are a couple of others, but again, they are rare and IMO not worth it.

The majority of what you wrote is total bullshit.

I have used a soft tip for years and I am currently using Ultra-skin black soft tips on all my cues that I'm playing with...carbon and wood.

I prefer the tips to be "tall", not short.

I break with them and make just as many balls as do most of the people with their break cues. Maybe they don't know how to break or they break like sissies.

My tips have never mushroomed.

My tips last for a very, very long time.

I can feel the tip hitting the ball with my soft tip. I like the softer tip because it allows me to "dampen" my stroke and HIT the ball. Not BABY it around the table with a hard tip on fast tables. I don't like playing pachinko. The soft tip gives me more control because I can now HIT the ball and not bunt it.

Just because you don't like them, doesn't mean it isn't the tip of choice for other players.
 
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