I don't knock anyone's techniques. The most important factor is, and always be, take the time and really educate yourself about the glue you use. I don't care what it is. If you use stock phenolic. The inside is shinny. Scuff it up and well too. That means. Go to the plumbing section of Home depot and buy round wire brushes. They have 5/8 and 3/4. Put a section of tubing in your lathe and run it in reverse. It will be nicely scuffed and not shinny anymore. Nice scrathes for the glue to sit in. If you use a parting tool? Sand both sides for proper adhesion. Pretty simple rules. Myself. I buy undersized i.d. tubes and bore them to the size I want.
The scuffing of the interior surface is a must.
Epoxy doesn't adhere well to shiny smooth surfaces any better than clear-coat does.
You want to 'break' the shiny and expose porosity in the mtrl.
There are many ways to do this. Point is, break the shiny.
I take this a step further. Final step is to run a tap thru the hole.
IE, go measure a 5/8 tap. You'll find it to be larger than .625".
What the tap does is to provide micro threads within the collar, (locking key ways).
The tenon remains at full dia. and unscathed.
Anyone in the world is entitled to construct their jnts. and collars in the manner they see fit.
Obviously there are many ways and examples. Think YOUR methods thru and own them.
Please don't adapt a method just because you read it on AZ. KNOW why it's being used.
Update: An afterthought led me to look at a 16x1.5mm tap, knowing it was slightly larger than 5/8".
The 16mm tap is .638" dia. Cuts a nice thread also. My 5/8 tap is going back in the set.