My Black Crown project - need some tips

Gold Crown Service Manual

https://www.classicbilliards.net/antique-parts-accessories/miscellaneous/gold-crown-4-service-manual-1998.html

GCIV End Sag Fix

See: #7 https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=132359&highlight=frame

Add an extra leveler on each corner and at the center seam area.

Here is a link to a free copy of the IV Manual.
https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=493932

Use 1” strips of notebook paper or thin blotter paper at 3 or 4 places between the seams, then use superglue liquid. The paper soaks up the glue and secures it.

Search for “How to level a table” posts by Real King Cobra’s (RKC) he has experienced suggestions.
https://forums.azbilliards.com/search.php?searchid=23781964

mchnhed said:

GCIV End Sag Fix

See: #7 https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=132359&highlight=frame

Add an extra leveler on each corner and at the center seam area.

Here is a link to a free copy of the IV Manual.
https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=493932

Use 1” strips of notebook paper or thin blotter paper at 3 or 4 places between the seams, then use superglue liquid. The paper soaks up the glue and secures it.

Search for “How to level a table” posts by Real King Cobra’s (RKC) he has experienced suggestions.
https://forums.azbilliards.com/search.php?searchid=23780866

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Your leveling link is gone.

1. Some use 8". I use 12" starret's.
2. Auto Bondo
3. 100 grit, stay on the bondo areas!!
4. That frame is awesome, between the 4 leveling feet and the levelers in the frame you should be able to dial that table in nicely.
5. You're welcome for the FREE copy of the GC4 manual :thumbup:

Are you planning on doing new rubber, subrail extensions, new neoprene pocket facings?

Trent from Toledo

I miss alot said:

I'm refinishing a Gold Crown 3. I have completely tore down the table and finished sanding every piece of wood, staining will begin tonight. I sent all metal to the powder coat shop to be gloss black (castings, feet, grill, emblems etc..) I'm having the trim on the apron vinyl wrapped (did a test today and it was pretty cool, looked great) also in gloss black. I'll be putting tournament blue 860 on it etc... I need some advice on leveling this table. I'm very mechanical in other areas but have never rebuild a table before and want to shim the slate myself as I'm having a hard time getting a reliable mechanic and really want to learn this. Here are my questions

1. Is a 8 inch machinest level long enough or go bigger?
2. What compound do you use if you don't want to use beezwax for the seams? Is it simply automotive bondo? And do you fill in every slate screw hole as well?
3. What grit sand paper is best when cleaning up the slate.
4. The frame of my table is from a GC4 which has the leveling bolts instead of needing to use shims. (any advice here is appreciated.)
5. Anyone know where to get a GC4 manual?

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Yes....thank you Trent for the GC Manual.

To the OP....

Trent has some good suggestions, also.
Be sure to ask nicely for info from Table Mechanics....they bite!

The link to RealKingCobra should be fixed.
If not go to “Community” and do a “Members Search”.
Also, search the Ask a Mechanic section for leveling.

I miss alot said:

I want to put the Artemis Intercontinental No. 66 (K55 Profile) cushions on these rails. Id like this to play similar to the blue label Diamond Professionals. Very curious if anyone has ever done this before on a GC and how it played.

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Again, search for it in the Talk to a Mechanic Section.
You’ll get a lot of info on those cushions and trying to make them work on a GC.

Search the terms....Diamondizing a Gold Crown.
You’ll need a true Table Mechanic to help you thru the weeds.

I miss alot said:

I was also looking at my wet sanded rail tops today and they don't look bad but I'd really like them to come back to life a bit more. I was able to get all the scratches out but I wonder if I could take them to a autobody shop and see if they could put a high speed polishing/buffing wheel on them. Anyone have any experience with that or thoughts?

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Where are you located? It sounds to me like you will be in need of a good mechanic to do the work you are describing.

Trent from Toledo

p.s. There are only a handful of guys I would trust to do the subrail mods to go to Artemis Cushions. Jack Z is who I use for that kind of rail work and it is always solid.

I miss alot said:

I’m in Virginia and have spoken to most of the mechanics here over the years. Will the Artemis cushions not be a direct replacement to the oem super speeds without modifications? I won’t be “diamondizing” or modifying the rails to get the shelf’s the same at this point just more work than I realized. I would just like to put the Artemis cushions on instead of the SS and shim the pockets.

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I would not put Artemis on it "as is" unless it is a GC4. RKC says they are bolt on for the newer GC's. Shimming the pockets makes them play incorrectly. Wood subrail extensions are not hard to do. This forum has plenty of info, pictures on how to do it and what it should look like.

If you are asking how to hack up your table, you dont need anyones help with that, just try it all your own way and it will naturally come out hacked!!
Good Luck to You!

Trent from Toledo

I miss alot said:

Lol Na, I’ll hire to my weakness for sure before I do that. So which cushions do you recommend (as far as the quality and durability) to put on my GC3? I’d really like to try these Artemis but I’m not sure if I should even order them if I don’t know if they will properly fit. Very confused as I thought my GC3 was K55 and I could simply purchase another K55 cushion regardless of brand. I hear the SS have quality issues etc..

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Any cushion you use: Artemis, SuperSpeed (newer version is not the same as the old version), Diamond Black, Klematch, Championship will all require subrail calibrating to fit properly.

If the table is an early Gold Crown III, it will have Monarch cushions installed. They are not a true K55 cushion profile. That said, if it is a later model Gold Crown III, you could install a standard K55 cushion profile, without much downside. To get the table to play to its full potential, the angle of the sub-rail should be modified, though it wouldn't be an absolute necessity.

From what I have read of your postings, you don't want to make the investment in extending the sub-rails (for tighter pockets). If that's the case, I might suggest that you don't spend the $350+ for Artemis cushions. You might better spend ~$50 on MBS cushions (a pretty decent playing cushion). In the future, when you decide that you'd like to tighten the pockets properly, you won't have to drop another $350+ on Artemis cushions AGAIN.

In regards to Brunswick Superspeed cushions: There was a time, through the late 80's-early 90's, when the rubber would prematurely harden. This issue has been resolved. The current issue is in the manufacturing process. There is a heavy line of mold flash along the top and bottom edges of the cushions. This will need to be sanded off, before installing the cushions. This process usually takes me about an extra 20-30 minutes (depending on my mood).

I miss alot said:

Lol Na, I’ll hire to my weakness for sure before I do that. So which cushions do you recommend (as far as the quality and durability) to put on my GC3? I’d really like to try these Artemis but I’m not sure if I should even order them if I don’t know if they will properly fit. Very confused as I thought my GC3 was K55 and I could simply purchase another K55 cushion regardless of brand. I hear the SS have quality issues etc..

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The early GC3's seem pretty rare in my area and in my travels. I have only bought one so far. Brunswick Superspeed's are what I always use on GC3's. The Artemis will no doubt need a subrail mod to be installed correctly. They are very expensive and unless you are going to go all the way and have the subrails done, I would not waste the money. Gold Crowns play great. I go though 25-30 sets of Superspeeds a year, no issues I have noticed.

Trent from Toledo

bradsh98 said:

There is a heavy line of mold flash along the top and bottom edges of the cushions. This will need to be sanded off, before installing the cushions. This process usually takes me about an extra 20-30 minutes (depending on my mood).

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I like to cut that mold flash off with a sharp scissors. Works fine and is much easier and quicker than sanding, IMO. Give it a try.

JZMechanix said:

I like to cut that mold flash off with a sharp scissors. Works fine and is much easier and quicker than sanding, IMO. Give it a try.

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Thanks Jack! I've tried it in the past, but had mixed results. I've got some nice new shears, so I'll give it a try on my next replacement.

Also, if you remove the flashing before mounting the cushions, it makes it easier to align them more precisely to the top of the subrail.

JZMechanix said:

Also, if you remove the flashing before mounting the cushions, it makes it easier to align them more precisely to the top of the subrail.

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Definitely!