I have always used good old elmers. I'm not alone.
Michael,
I don't get how the leather stays in place until the glue dries. Do you bind it some way?
Thanks,
Alan
tap, tap, tap...I'll add it is important to have contact cement thinner on hand to keep the cement at a good working viscosity. Having your own burnishing(mine is made of ivory), rolling and detailing tools help a great deal as does a magnifying visor and good lighting.
Martin
can you tell us why tight bond is better contact cement..
Hi,
Darrin Hill of "Hills Cues" got me to believe in the tight bond after I watched him complete a perfect leather wrap job in about 20 minutes at his shop 2 weeks ago. When you use regular titebond the process is much faster and much easier. No waiting 15 minutes for the cement to dry before you contact it.
I just did my first one last week and it came out great. When you put the wrap on it does not stick in place right away and you have time to move it or stretch a little at the steps. It wipes off the finish real easy with water and when it holds firm much faster than I had expected.
After I put on the leather I was cutting the seam after about 10 minutes. When you squeeze the seam the titebond on that side is still viscous and the process is much easier on the thumbs. I just use some tape to hold areas of the seam while it cures. I also used the tape when I used the contact cement. With contact cement I was always worried about the cement getting on a new finish and I wasted a lot of time with tape to protect the finish for the contact"s chemicals.
The tight bond holds the leather to the wood as you have to use the pliers to get it off after it cures just like the contact cement. Darrin told me he believes it bonds better as he said, "taking off a tightbond glue warp is a real pain in the butt".
Rick Geschrey
I have put hundreds on and I like the wood glue so I can move and slide it .each leather wrap has it own personality never the same , win some lose some, you have to be in stroke to do your best leather job. practice, practice, practice you will find what works and what doesn't. darrin hill
If you have to change one of your wraps, Do you use something to break down the wood glue or do you re-cut the channel?
I have found if I boil a pot of water and make steam to run the handle over it carefully , not getting it to hot it comes right off. within a day or two of putting it on it comes off pretty easy, its after weeks that i need some steam.
I have always use CONTACT CEMENT 100%:thumbup:
SEAM??? PRACTICE...PRACTICE....PRACTICE... JUST LIKE POOL
Another skill to attain is the ability to micro-shave the ends of a wrap channel to custom fit a wrap with a sharp utility blade. I'm glad to assist my wrap customers in any way I can to help them learn or get better results.
Martin
Right on Kenny! One trick at the seam with (properly thinned) contact cement is to not let the cement dry completely before moving the leather into position at the seam. Another skill to attain is the ability to micro-shave the ends of a wrap channel to custom fit a wrap with a sharp utility blade. I'm glad to assist my wrap customers in any way I can to help them learn or get better results.
Martin
Hey Martin,
Are you having leather wrap class. I want to register for your class count me in..
Kenny:thumbup: