Leather Wrap Seam

Canadian cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The white glues work well for bonding the leather to the wood but I have found that on some leathers the cleanup is an issue. PVA's clean up with water and the water is hard on some finishes they put on the leathers. The contact cement uses a solvent clean up and when you get some on the finish it usualy just rubs off.
One place I found to be a great resource to learn more about leather was the local shoemaker. Those guys work with all kinds of leather and if they have been doing it for a while they really know there stuff. The shoe supply wholesaler is also a great place to get leathers in bulk.
 

ratcues

No yodeling, please.
Silver Member
There is a lot of good advice and methods here for you to try. Trial and error is the most effective way to learn. It isn't always the fastest or the cheapest but it is the most effective. Buy some leather. Buy some glue. Set aside some time to experiment. See which combination works best, for you, and run with it.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Michael,
I don't get how the leather stays in place until the glue dries. Do you bind it some way?

Thanks,
Alan

Hi Alan
Elmers dries very quickly, mix a little water in it and it gives you more working time. What I like best about it compared to contact cement is, the customer can't lift it. I have seen that done quite a bit. As for the roller used on the seam, any hardware store sells the little wall paper roller, I like the wooden one as compared to the plastic one. Just my opinion of course.
 
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SK Custom Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
tap, tap, tap...I'll add it is important to have contact cement thinner on hand to keep the cement at a good working viscosity. Having your own burnishing(mine is made of ivory), rolling and detailing tools help a great deal as does a magnifying visor and good lighting.

Martin

That is very interesting Martin. Where does one get a magnifying visor, and I would love to see a picture of these tools made out of ivory....
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
can you tell us why tight bond is better contact cement..

Hi,

Darrin Hill of "Hills Cues" got me to believe in the tight bond after I watched him complete a perfect leather wrap job in about 20 minutes at his shop 2 weeks ago. When you use regular titebond the process is much faster and much easier. No waiting 15 minutes for the cement to dry before you contact it.

I just did my first one last week and it came out great. When you put the wrap on it does not stick in place right away and you have time to move it or stretch a little at the steps. It wipes off the finish real easy with water and when it holds firm much faster than I had expected.

After I put on the leather I was cutting the seam after about 10 minutes. When you squeeze the seam the titebond on that side is still viscous and the process is much easier on the thumbs. I just use some tape to hold areas of the seam while it cures. I also used the tape when I used the contact cement. With contact cement I was always worried about the cement getting on a new finish and I wasted a lot of time with tape to protect the finish for the contact"s chemicals.

The tight bond holds the leather to the wood as you have to use the pliers to get it off after it cures just like the contact cement. Darrin told me he believes it bonds better as he said, "taking off a tightbond glue warp is a real pain in the butt".

Rick Geschrey
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi,

Darrin Hill of "Hills Cues" got me to believe in the tight bond after I watched him complete a perfect leather wrap job in about 20 minutes at his shop 2 weeks ago. When you use regular titebond the process is much faster and much easier. No waiting 15 minutes for the cement to dry before you contact it.

I just did my first one last week and it came out great. When you put the wrap on it does not stick in place right away and you have time to move it or stretch a little at the steps. It wipes off the finish real easy with water and when it holds firm much faster than I had expected.

After I put on the leather I was cutting the seam after about 10 minutes. When you squeeze the seam the titebond on that side is still viscous and the process is much easier on the thumbs. I just use some tape to hold areas of the seam while it cures. I also used the tape when I used the contact cement. With contact cement I was always worried about the cement getting on a new finish and I wasted a lot of time with tape to protect the finish for the contact"s chemicals.

The tight bond holds the leather to the wood as you have to use the pliers to get it off after it cures just like the contact cement. Darrin told me he believes it bonds better as he said, "taking off a tightbond glue warp is a real pain in the butt".

Rick Geschrey

I used that on a few cues, won't do that again, had to recut the channel when they wanted a different wrap installed. At least contact cement can be cleaned away with laquer thinner and elmers, all you need is a wet sponge.
 

hangemhigh

Known Sinner
Silver Member
Practice is the key. When you do it a thousand times you develop a perfect routine. I would never put tape on any wrap, that is why I like the contact cement.
 

hillscues

American Craftsmanship
Silver Member
I have put hundreds on and I like the wood glue so I can move and slide it .each leather wrap has it own personality never the same , win some lose some, you have to be in stroke to do your best leather job. practice, practice, practice you will find what works and what doesn't. darrin hill
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have put hundreds on and I like the wood glue so I can move and slide it .each leather wrap has it own personality never the same , win some lose some, you have to be in stroke to do your best leather job. practice, practice, practice you will find what works and what doesn't. darrin hill


If you have to change one of your wraps, Do you use something to break down the wood glue or do you re-cut the channel?
 

hillscues

American Craftsmanship
Silver Member
If you have to change one of your wraps, Do you use something to break down the wood glue or do you re-cut the channel?

I have found if I boil a pot of water and make steam to run the handle over it carefully , not getting it to hot it comes right off. within a day or two of putting it on it comes off pretty easy, its after weeks that i need some steam.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have found if I boil a pot of water and make steam to run the handle over it carefully , not getting it to hot it comes right off. within a day or two of putting it on it comes off pretty easy, its after weeks that i need some steam.

Thanks for your answer, Interesting method.
 

stevel

Lomax Custom Cues
Silver Member
I use contact cement 90% of the time.I also use the elmer's glue on certain wraps. I guess it's all good,different strokes for different folks.

Best Wishes,

Steve
 

FLYINGSNAIL

Koo Cues
Silver Member
I have always use CONTACT CEMENT 100%:thumbup:
SEAM??? PRACTICE...PRACTICE....PRACTICE... JUST LIKE POOL:D
 

jazznpool

Superior Cues--Unchalked!
Gold Member
Silver Member
Right on Kenny! One trick at the seam with (properly thinned) contact cement is to not let the cement dry completely before moving the leather into position at the seam. Another skill to attain is the ability to micro-shave the ends of a wrap channel to custom fit a wrap with a sharp utility blade. I'm glad to assist my wrap customers in any way I can to help them learn or get better results.

Martin


I have always use CONTACT CEMENT 100%:thumbup:
SEAM??? PRACTICE...PRACTICE....PRACTICE... JUST LIKE POOL:D
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Another skill to attain is the ability to micro-shave the ends of a wrap channel to custom fit a wrap with a sharp utility blade. I'm glad to assist my wrap customers in any way I can to help them learn or get better results.

Martin

Okay, tell us. Does that mean, the channel is a little deeper just on the out side.
 

FLYINGSNAIL

Koo Cues
Silver Member
How to?????

Hey Martin,

Are you having leather wrap class. I want to register for your class:D count me in..

Kenny:thumbup:

Right on Kenny! One trick at the seam with (properly thinned) contact cement is to not let the cement dry completely before moving the leather into position at the seam. Another skill to attain is the ability to micro-shave the ends of a wrap channel to custom fit a wrap with a sharp utility blade. I'm glad to assist my wrap customers in any way I can to help them learn or get better results.

Martin
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey Martin,

Are you having leather wrap class. I want to register for your class:D count me in..

Kenny:thumbup:

riginally Posted by jazznpool View Post
Right on Kenny! One trick at the seam with (properly thinned) contact cement is to not let the cement dry completely before moving the leather into position at the seam. Another skill to attain is the ability to micro-shave the ends of a wrap channel to custom fit a wrap with a sharp utility blade. I'm glad to assist my wrap customers in any way I can to help them learn or get better results.

As he said, you have to be one of his customers before he'll help. ARE YOU?:rolleyes:
 
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