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Reload this Page Finished instructions for installing and leveling 3-piece slates
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realkingcobra
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02-21-2008, 12:31 AM

Bump back to the top.
  
The Cobra Strikes
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The Cobra Strikes - 02-21-2008, 01:26 PM

Glen, I've been thinking this was a DIY, you've blown that out of the water. Can't I just buy a used table and be careful moving it and set it back up without doing all this?
  
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02-25-2008, 05:10 PM

[QUOTE=steveharn]Glen, I've been thinking this was a DIY, you've blown that out of the water. Can't I just buy a used table and be careful moving it and set it back up without doing all this?

If its a 3 piece slate table....nope

Glen
  
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Thumbs up Thanks - 03-06-2008, 12:44 AM

Great job, thanks
  
How level is level?
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How level is level? - 03-08-2008, 03:10 PM

Glen,

I just joined this forum and read your tutorial on leveling a 3-piece slate table (thanks for the very informative post). One thing you didn't mention is just how level a table needs to be to play well. I'm using a 15" Starrett (calibrated 0.0005" per foot)on a 4 foot carpenters level to adjust a 15 year old Brunswick Medalist and I'm noticing a 2 - 3 mil (0.002-0.003") variation just by walking from one end of the table to the other. The table is on a 3/4" oak floor with a 7/8" T&G sub-floor so I would expect that much flexure (I'm not exactly a light weight d8o). If the table is generally level within 0.005" will it play well without a significant roll-off? I seem to recall Brunswick advertising that their slate is machined flat to within a 0.010" tolerance. Is that the range, say +/- 0.005", I should be striving for?
  
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03-08-2008, 08:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by fredd
Glen,

I just joined this forum and read your tutorial on leveling a 3-piece slate table (thanks for the very informative post). One thing you didn't mention is just how level a table needs to be to play well. I'm using a 15" Starrett (calibrated 0.0005" per foot)on a 4 foot carpenters level to adjust a 15 year old Brunswick Medalist and I'm noticing a 2 - 3 mil (0.002-0.003") variation just by walking from one end of the table to the other. The table is on a 3/4" oak floor with a 7/8" T&G sub-floor so I would expect that much flexure (I'm not exactly a light weight d8o). If the table is generally level within 0.005" will it play well without a significant roll-off? I seem to recall Brunswick advertising that their slate is machined flat to within a 0.010" tolerance. Is that the range, say +/- 0.005", I should be striving for?
If the table is within 0.005" that's well within my spec's

Glen
  
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03-13-2008, 04:21 PM

thank you glen
  
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03-27-2008, 07:31 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mb-1953
thank you glen
You're welcome
  
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06-01-2008, 01:16 PM

Bump back to the top

Glen
  
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07-31-2008, 10:07 AM

Bump for newcomers.
  
Make this a "Sticky"
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Smile Make this a "Sticky" - 07-31-2008, 10:15 AM

Glen may be this could be made a "sticky". Sure would be handy!!!


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07-31-2008, 10:18 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsp&b
Glen may be this could be made a "sticky". Sure would be handy!!!
How do you do that?
  
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07-31-2008, 12:31 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by realkingcobra
How do you do that?
Spray glue.
  
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08-21-2008, 02:06 AM

What a great set of instructions. Thank you so much
  
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09-06-2008, 02:11 PM

I have some questions about some points in here? will start with just some.

how do you sand off only the bondo and not any slate??

What happens when you free the slates where they were bonded with superglue?

wood shims will only have 2 points in the table, one on the slate and one on the frame and they will be on an angle right? why do they make frames flat if they are going to be shimmed with an angled shim? Would you use angled shims between the pedastels and frame irons on a GC 1, I don't think so, I wouldn't.

I only see one machinst level and one carpenter level, its impossible to view a puzzle without having a picture of it together. Isn't it better to have more levels instead of writing all over the slate?
  
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