https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQYXtf0O_uo Watch and then fire away boys. I'm just the poster. System works pretty well. If you don't like it don't use it. Just another tool to use(or not).
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Like other systems, these system alignments are just fixed markers across the range of cut angles - it's up to you to learn which markers go with which cut angles....there is no way to know when the aim changes from the outside of the ferrule to the next section of the ferrule etc.
Try it for a while and it becomes pretty clear. It also depends on your shaft diameter. I use a 12.9mm and i usually use just edges and center but after first video and pj's drawing i'm trying the in-between points also.Simple explanation and pretty well explained on the video.
My only issue is that there is no way to know when the aim changes from the
outside of the ferrule to the next section of the ferrule etc..
Simple explanation and pretty well explained on the video.
My only issue is that there is no way to know when the aim changes from the
outside of the ferrule to the next section of the ferrule etc..
My issues are two balls went in because that's a 7-footer with home table pockets.
And backhand English does not solve everything .
You will still visualize ( on many distance shots ) the ball or side of the side of the ferrule outside of the edge of the ob when you put outside english.
He's gonna knock it regardless. He's made that pretty clear. We get it.Works on 9ft diamonds no issues :smile:
I find that aiming the inside/edge of the shaft to the ob edge creates about a 3/8 cut shot (a little less than 38°) regardless of whether or not the ob is 30" from the cb or 70". It might look like the shot will be hit thinner from a greater distance, but any portion of the shaft aimed from the cb to the edge of the ob will have a proportional end result at the ob end of the shot.
Yes, if you really align the shaft's edge (or any other part) with the OB's edge (or any other part), that line doesn't change with distance.I find that aiming the inside/edge of the shaft to the ob edge creates about a 3/8 cut shot (a little less than 38°) regardless of whether or not the ob is 30" from the cb or 70". It might look like the shot will be hit thinner from a greater distance, but any portion of the shaft aimed from the cb to the edge of the ob will have a proportional end result at the ob end of the shot.
I find that aiming the inside/edge of the shaft to the ob edge creates about a 3/8 cut shot (a little less than 38°) regardless of whether or not the ob is 30" from the cb or 70". It might look like the shot will be hit thinner from a greater distance, but any portion of the shaft aimed from the cb to the edge of the ob will have a proportional end result at the ob end of the shot.
Yes, if you really align the shaft's edge (or any other part) with the OB's edge (or any other part), that line doesn't change with distance.
Also, of course the exact cut angles depend on your shaft's width - here are the cut angles (with the inside edge aligned with the OB edge, as you mention above) for shafts ranging from 10mm to 14mm:
View attachment 538495
For reference, an actual 3/8 cut = 38.7°, so no typical shaft will produce quite that much of a cut with that alignment.
pj
chgo
Have you shot a long distance thin cut using the inside of the ferrule and the OB edge? I tried a few last night, works pretty well. Might be the only shot i would consider using the system with.
Yes. And I agree. But it also seems to work out on shorter thin cuts as well, as long as I don't focus too much on making sure the ref line is perfectly lined up. My biggest problem with it is the fact that I can't estimate a contact point very accurately unless there's a specific spot on the ball that I can actually see. So those super thin cuts are the only thing I'd consider because the edge of the ob can be used instead of the cp.
My usual nitpick: the method doesn’t line you up just right (as you confirm in the first paragraph above), you line yourself up right using the method’s alignments as “estimation guides”.At first glance it looks like my cue edge is lined to the contact point, but if I freeze it right there and go lower to sight straight down the edge of the cue shaft, it isn't leading to the contact point.
It is pretty cool, when taking into account the perspective of the ob at a distance, compared to the cue tip diameter, just how often the method appears to line you up just right.
Have you shot a long distance thin cut using the inside of the ferrule and the OB edge? I tried a few last night, works pretty well. Might be the only shot i would consider using the system with.
Good luck when the hit is thin.
Tried it and it didn't even come close .
Unless you make that cue ball squirt with inside english.
But, as the pic shows, you are better off lining up edge to edge or overlap.
I disagree. I've used this method for long distance thin hits about 10 times lately in straight pool matches. I wasn't playing to make the ball, just playing safe. It's a great tool to have.
No english, straight center ball hit
Well, you were not shooting to make the ball.
And if it's better than edge to edge, good then.
I think for the purpose of thinning a ball 6 or more feet away from the CB it is the way to go.