Spot on the wall kicking system?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkr9z0bwLUE

Been around forever..... I have used it on occasions. It's well worth learning.



Tor's version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp2VuwN5Tkw

Spot on the wall is a system I use often. Once you determine the adjusted 5 to 3 track three rails to the opposite corner...it comes in handy for all other shots that are not on that line. The spot now plays to the corner from anywhere. I will say that at or past the side pocket requires about a balls adjustment longer. I've also noticed to be exact, the spot can't be closer than 5 foot from the rail, or farther than 10 foot from the rail. This will make sense if you spend about 15 minutes trying it for yourself. I had a table run last week in league that began with a 3 rail spot on the wall kick when the other team thought I was frozen locked up with no shot at all. It was not lucky, except that it was through traffic and I got shape on the next ball after the shot.

Ha. Now I watched the link. That was not spot on the wall so much as it was a parallel shift for the two railer for the corner. Nice kick anyway.

alstl said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZONvoN0un4

100:14 of the video for those watching on a device which doesn't start at the appropriate time.

I was watching Melling's match and noticed he was pulling off a few nice kicks. he appeared to be aiming at something away from the table and I remember a discussion about the "spot on the wall" system. I don't understand why you wouldn't just use the diamonds but it seems to work for Melling.

Just one of several examples during the match.

Click to expand...

For the 3 rail kick to get the cue ball to come around towards the corner pocket, it doesn't work to use the diamonds as your reference point of what diamond (or between diamonds) to aim for will differ depending on where the cue ball is, but for spot on the wall, chair leg or whatever you want to call it aiming system, that spot stays constant. Don't ask me the physics behind how / why it works and it doesn't seem to matter how far that wall/chair or whatever is away from the table, but it does!

the spot on the wall is sometimes quicker than figuring out all the numbers with the diamonds
you out the imaginary cueball close to where it is where the calculation is easy
find the spot on the wall and shoot the cue ball at that spot
in your link
i think once chris decided where on the rail he had to hit he used the side pocket as his reference point
his hit was 3 diamonds down
he used the plus 2 system found 3 and the spot on the wall and aimed at that
the track was so close he could have paralleled over as mentioned above
jmho
icbw

Jimmy Reid was a proponent of the "spot out there" method.
If you can mess around the table some before the match, it can be done by setting into position a beer bottle, a glass, edge of a chair, etc. etc. stuff like that.
Of course if someone moves your object then you're a dead duck.
When I was just a kid (in another century) the old generals would stick thumbtacks in the wall around certain tables and use those as the aiming points for this kicking system.
The reasoning was each table played a little different, long or short, and the diamonds just were not precise enough.

Regardless of what "aiming method" you use, if you don't possess an accurate and repeatable stroke you'll have a more difficult time adjusting. :grin: All tables play a little different from one another. The player who can adjust more quickly to the table conditions will always have the advantage. Notice it took Dr Dave 4 tries to adjust to the 3 rail kick. IMO using the diamonds and knowing how to adjust quickly is much easier (and more accurate) than the 'spot on the wall' method. Dave's way of teaching the 2 rail kicks, using the spot on the wall, is much more complicated, than using the diamonds, and adjusting spin and speed to hit the target...again, just my opinion

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

mr3cushion said:

The SOTW system only works pretty good if the THAT spot you pick out, is only 5"-6" away from the table you are playing on!

Click to expand...

I’m guessing you meant feet not inches. It works in any size room but is much harder with small rooms and really big ones.....key to a short length is seeing it off a vertical axis instead of horizontal ones.....and hypotenuse it lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Must be magambo like shadow banking with direct lighting...

alstl said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZONvoN0un4

100:14 of the video for those watching on a device which doesn't start at the appropriate time.

I was watching Melling's match and noticed he was pulling off a few nice kicks. he appeared to be aiming at something away from the table and I remember a discussion about the "spot on the wall" system. I don't understand why you wouldn't just use the diamonds but it seems to work for Melling.

Just one of several examples during the match.

Click to expand...

Spot on the wall, chair, table, glass etc..etc

If you know what your doing, you can use spot on the wall for ALL banks and kicks.

I sometimes use spot on the wall for 1 tall cross side.... 1 long rail......2 rails to corner......2 rails to side...... 3 rails to corner and EVEN 4 rails to corner if you spend enough time figuring it out.

Some say it's not the best way, well, it depends on the situation. Sometimes SONT works best. Then again, a learned diamond system is priceless as well....

Rake

alstl said:

... 100:14 of the video ...

Click to expand...

1:00:14 (ah, the importance of a colon :smile

The quick-playing Mr. Melling pondered that kick for about 3 minutes!

I prefer Mary Jane and jagermeister.

greyghost said:

I’m guessing you meant feet not inches. It works in any size room but is much harder with small rooms and really big ones.....key to a short length is seeing it off a vertical axis instead of horizontal ones.....and hypotenuse it lol


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Click to expand...

I did! ty.

Black-Balled said:

I prefer Mary Jane and jagermeister.

Click to expand...

Be a shit talkin funny walk-in son of a gun lol


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Low500 said:

If you can mess around the table some before the match, it can be done by setting into position a beer bottle, a glass, edge of a chair, etc. etc. stuff like that.
Of course if someone moves your object then you're a dead duck.
When I was just a kid (in another century) the old generals would stick thumbtacks in the wall around certain tables and use those as the aiming points for this kicking system.
The reasoning was each table played a little different, long or short, and the diamonds just were not precise enough.

Click to expand...

All of that really isn't necessary and moving the objects is not hurting you if you are prepared.

All you need to get is some practice time for all four corner holes for each new table you play on. Let's say you got a perfect table and you have to hit the same "2nd" diamond opposite the corner pocket each way - like demonstrated in Tor Lowry's video. Let's say someone moved that bottle and you did not have any other reference point memorized. No problem. You still remember the shot from the corner to the second diamond. Just go back to that corner pocket and imagine the line from this pocket to the 2nd diamond. Then search for a "new" spot on the wall in the distance. Then go back to your cue ball and aim for that "new" spot on the wall.

If you had done this before the game with all four corner pockets you know that 1) there aren't any hidden defects in the table (like being slightly tilted, the rails reacting slightly differently etc.) and 2) you have 4 spots in the wall and on the table (which in my case would be the 2nd diamond opposite in each case). If the table is not perfect you may have to remember up to 4 different points on the rail and figure out the corresponding ones on the wall.

I like this method as an alternative to the spot on the wall method.
https://billiards.colostate.edu/resources/Marcel_magic_spot_mirror_image_kick.pdf

Scott Lee said:

Regardless of what "aiming method" you use, if you don't possess an accurate and repeatable stroke you'll have a more difficult time adjusting. :grin: All tables play a little different from one another. The player who can adjust more quickly to the table conditions will always have the advantage. Notice it took Dr Dave 4 tries to adjust to the 3 rail kick. IMO using the diamonds and knowing how to adjust quickly is much easier (and more accurate) than the 'spot on the wall' method. Dave's way of teaching the 2 rail kicks, using the spot on the wall, is much more complicated, than using the diamonds, and adjusting spin and speed to hit the target...again, just my opinion

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Click to expand...

if you test the table before hand
you know what diamond to aim at
then you can use the spot on the wall for that table
jmho

The beauty of the spot on the wall system is that it will work on almost any table, whether you've tested it out or not, and will get you real close. Sometimes it can be a life saver.

Eons ago I played Efren in a US Open One Pocket match and he was tying me into knots with his safety play. At one point I was frozen behind a ball near my side pocket and the only way out was a three rail kick to get behind some balls in front of his hole and I was lost. Then I remember the SOTW (though in the version I knew you had to choose a spot about 10' away). There was an standup ashtray about that distance away. I chose a side of the ashtray, took aim, and execute a perfect escape. The crowd applauded

Lou Figueroa