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hardened bondo rising up at the seam
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Lightbulb hardened bondo rising up at the seam - 05-11-2018, 08:29 PM

This has happened a few time to me, i know sounds insane

But the seams were pretty good and flush, but on one end i felt something

I hit it with a plastic hammer and it goes away, tapping it down , probably crushing it

Ive also taken the cloth off before to see it with my eyes as bondo, hardened bondo thats seeped up

Why in the world would it happen?

My carom table isnt even heated


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05-11-2018, 10:56 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Carom Club View Post
This has happened a few time to me, i know sounds insane

But the seams were pretty good and flush, but on one end i felt something

I hit it with a plastic hammer and it goes away, tapping it down , probably crushing it

Ive also taken the cloth off before to see it with my eyes as bondo, hardened bondo thats seeped up

Why in the world would it happen?

My carom table isnt even heated
Without super gluing the slates together, you're doing nothing to keep the frame from expanding and contracting with the change in humidity which will happen. When the frame expands, the bondo won't hold it together, so it breaks apart at the seam, then when the frame shrinks, that pulls the slates together...pushing the bondo, just like wax...up out of the seam.
  
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05-12-2018, 02:43 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
Without super gluing the slates together, you're doing nothing to keep the frame from expanding and contracting with the change in humidity which will happen. When the frame expands, the bondo won't hold it together, so it breaks apart at the seam, then when the frame shrinks, that pulls the slates together...pushing the bondo, just like wax...up out of the seam.
maybe the bondo guys should switch to belzona! ROFLMAO
  
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05-12-2018, 05:21 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
Without super gluing the slates together, you're doing nothing to keep the frame from expanding and contracting with the change in humidity which will happen. When the frame expands, the bondo won't hold it together, so it breaks apart at the seam, then when the frame shrinks, that pulls the slates together...pushing the bondo, just like wax...up out of the seam.
Ill remember that next time im setting the slates thanks


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05-13-2018, 09:19 AM

About 6" in from the outside edge of the seams, and another 6" in the center of the seams.
  
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05-13-2018, 09:34 AM

Just generic super glue?
The stuff i use for cue tips?

Sometimes ill drip some on a fabric and smoke will rise up lol
A little hard to get off my finger tips for a few days, its gotten on my jeans and forgetabout it, hard spot thats not going away


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05-13-2018, 09:42 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Carom Club View Post
Just generic super glue?

The stuff i use for cue tips?



Sometimes ill drip some on a fabric and smoke will rise up lol

A little hard to get off my finger tips for a few days, its gotten on my jeans and forgetabout it, hard spot thats not going away


A medium viscosity works well, a thin version wonít work as well imop


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05-13-2018, 08:59 PM

"6" in" = a strip/section 6" wide starting right at the edge on each side? Or come in 6" and glue for how wide? Saw somewhere an installer used tabs of typing paper about 6" in but only 1" or so wide, and saturated those to insure wicking to the bottom?

Seems like it would be a good idea to keep glue a good distance from any dowels, or am i just being superstitious?

Do you use a heat gun & knife to take the slate apart to move a table? Solvent? Or does it just pop apart? Or?

Not at all a table mechanic, but mentioned in another post I used to make parts and tooling for a guy who built tables and serviced commercial tables in PA/MD/WVA. Also mentioned failing to pay any close attention when i had the opportunity. But did recall that John hated when people began using superglue, so that kind of stuck in the back of my mind. I took a heat gun along on the table my wife and i bought for ourselves last Sunday. Can't be sure it had superglue under the bondo, but it seemed to, and the heat gun was a life saver to get the knife started. (I've worked & machined slate for sinks and counters, did not overheat the slate which can spall it. But warming along the joints made a big difference).

Thanks for continuing my education!
smt

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Trip to TX - 05-14-2018, 06:48 AM

I will come to Houston in July. Let you know when you can see how it works.
  
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05-15-2018, 03:08 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Carom Club View Post
Sometimes ill drip some on a fabric and smoke will rise up lol
A little hard to get off my finger tips for a few days, its gotten on my jeans and forgetabout it, hard spot thats not going away
Smoke...The thin CA does that for some reason. I used the Thin with a white paper towel and got smokey real fast. I stick with medium.
Sticking to hands... I wear Coscto's Nitrile gloves when using CA. They seem to be ok. Latex gloves are no good...they dissolve and get stuck to the hands.




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05-15-2018, 03:37 AM

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Originally Posted by GoldCrown View Post
Smoke...The thin CA does that for some reason. I used the Thin with a white paper towel and got smokey real fast. I stick with medium.

Sticking to hands... I wear Coscto's Nitrile gloves when using CA. They seem to be ok. Latex gloves are no good...they dissolve and get stuck to the hands.


CA when mixed with cotton causes a quick exothermal reaction....cotton loves to hold moisture.

Lol I spilled a quart at my old place one time and glued my foot to my sandal man Iím glad I had acetone lol


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05-15-2018, 06:21 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssonerai View Post
"6" in" = a strip/section 6" wide starting right at the edge on each side? Or come in 6" and glue for how wide? Saw somewhere an installer used tabs of typing paper about 6" in but only 1" or so wide, and saturated those to insure wicking to the bottom?

Seems like it would be a good idea to keep glue a good distance from any dowels, or am i just being superstitious?

Do you use a heat gun & knife to take the slate apart to move a table? Solvent? Or does it just pop apart? Or?

Not at all a table mechanic, but mentioned in another post I used to make parts and tooling for a guy who built tables and serviced commercial tables in PA/MD/WVA. Also mentioned failing to pay any close attention when i had the opportunity. But did recall that John hated when people began using superglue, so that kind of stuck in the back of my mind. I took a heat gun along on the table my wife and i bought for ourselves last Sunday. Can't be sure it had superglue under the bondo, but it seemed to, and the heat gun was a life saver to get the knife started. (I've worked & machined slate for sinks and counters, did not overheat the slate which can spall it. But warming along the joints made a big difference).

Thanks for continuing my education!
smt

Drywall tape works well. Depending on how the slates were originally mounted to the frame, you may need to add additional layers.



See additional photos of the process here.

Separation is easy. No need for heat. Unless you use an excess of glue, the paper will pull right apart nicely. Clean it up with the quick scrape of a razor blade or chisel.


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Last edited by bradsh98; 05-15-2018 at 06:26 AM.
  
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05-16-2018, 08:27 AM

Wow -thanks for taking the time to post that. It's a great resource for people like me. Highly interested but starting from a base with too little knowlege.

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