Anniversary project

martin35

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Guys

I start this thread to keep track of the progress of my coming table refurb project and also for asking a ton of questions down the road.

If you have seen some of my previous thread, you know that used to own a Anniversary 10ft snooker that I partially refinished. I’ve sold it locally and found what I was really looking for a for a while, an Anniversary 9ft pool table. As you can see, it is in a little rough shape but I’m planning to do a good refurb job (more than I did on my previous table). Here is a quick description form the ground up :

-Pedestal : They are in rough shape, there is 2 big patches on the side covering a hole and they are brown painted. On the plus side the aluminum band are in ok shape.

-Frame : This is not an Anniversary original frame. Overall it’s a similar design but without the big top apron for the slate, only fixation blocks on the side. I entertain the idea of modifying it to make it more similar to the original.

-Slate : A nice set of matching Brunswick slate without the raised stripes flaw with only 1 chip outside of the playing surface. The backing board are in great shape. It looks like they did not seen more than 3-4 recovering.

-Skirt : Overall in good shape except for an easily repairable split 4-5inches long.

-Casting : In good shape except for one side casting with a broken ear.

-Rails : The top rail are rough but I should be able to make them looks good. The sub rail are not beat-up but the cushion are weird, they have fitted L77 snooker cushion on a 1-3/4 pool rail . I’ve tested them very quickly when I picked-up the table and they are surprisingly lively. For sure I will need advice about that.

That pretty much it for now, I will keep you inform of my progress and for sure I will ask a ton of questions.

Thanks in advance for contributing.

Martin

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martin35

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Frame

Hello guys

Like I said in my previous post, I’m pretty sure that the frame of my table is not original. The construction quality and design is not too bad but there is couple of think I don’t like about it :

-I don’t like the way it sits on the pedestal. The beam do not sits on the pedestal, they kind of overhang each side.
-Since the foot print of the beams is bigger than the original, there is no room to fits ball return gulley and it’s something I would to do eventually.

I think this frame can be a good starting point to make one looking like the original. I’m thinking about reducing the footprint of the beams and add the top apron.

Now it’s where I need your help do double check some measurement on an original frame. I’ve put in attachment a drawing I’ve made with the measurement I need. I’ve already put some numbers but some of them are approximate. I think the overall dimension are close but I would like to confirm the dimension of the beam cross section. I’m mostly looking for measurement
E,F,G and H from the detailed view “A”.

I would really appreciate if somebody can take a minute to take those measurement.

Thanks for your help

Martin
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Steve Dickey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
F=1 5/8"
G=4 7/8"
H=3 1/8"

"E" I measured the cantilever from the face of GxH, not as you have it drawn. 6 1/8". Hope this makes sense. If not let me know.
Steve
 

martin35

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thank you Steve for the measurement

I should be able to figure out the missing dimension.

The more I dig into this the more I begin to believe that I actually have a Brunswick frame. Even if it doesnt looks like the Anniversary frame we use to see, I've found at least one other exemple of a similar frame on an Anniversary snooker on the internet (see picture). I also found a serial number on my frame matching the slates.

Also your measurement are really close to the cross section of my actual frames beam .My beams measure 6-5/8 high (close to 1-5/8 + 4-7/8) and exactly the same thickness at 3-1/8.

I think that if I can figure out if I can fit a gulley system with that frame, I will leave it as is.

Thanks again for your help , it's been really enlightening.

Martin
 

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Steve Dickey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If there is anything else you need, let me know. I have a ball return on mine as well. Good luck and enjoy the process. Steve
 

SlateMate

Banned
that's a very cool and collectible table as you likely know.... a while back i got a free 9' Robertson, Sonier Willhelm (sp) . it was styled after your Anniversary table but was a pos. i threw it away and added the slate to my patio where i have the slate from my old Gandy 8' pro. i threw that table away too. lol....
 

martin35

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Progress update

Guys

I’ve decided to leave the frame alone for now and begin to do some work on my rails. Here is some pictures of what I’ve done yet :

-Recut the face of the sub-rail to remove the old snooker cushion. I’ve used a sled on my table saw to be able to adjust my cut parallel to the featherstrip groove.
-Reinstall the rail on the slate and resurface the top of the subrail at 1-11/16” high with my router.
-Made new subrail nose out of poplar, glued and doweled.
-Recut the cloth relief
-Repair the broken tab on a side casting
-Reinstall the rails square on the slate to mark my pocket opening at the right angle than extend them to the proper length (I’ve decided to go 4-3/4” for corners and 5-1/4” on the side with 1/8” facing (with ¼” facing I can go down to 4-1/2” - 5”)
-I have one cushion installed yet. This step was making me nervous because of the unforgiveness of contact cement. Surprisingly working with 3M Scotch-Weld for the first time went pretty well since it allows slight repositioning of your work if you do not apply too much pressure. The result is not 100% perfect but I’m satisfied.

Like I said, I know that the result is not perfect but I’m satisfied so far. For me it is the more challenging part of the whole project and I’m learning a ton of stuff. BTW, thanks to the great contributors sharing knowledge on this forum, without them it would have been impossible to undertake this project.

Next steps :

-Install remaining cushions
-Install cushion facing

Thanks for watching, comments are welcome.

Martin
 

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iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’m not a mechanic, but doesn’t the evidence show you may actually have a snooker table? The frame, the cushions both point to that. And if the table was only reclothed a few times in its life, the cushions are probably original.

In either case, it looks like you are having fun.
 

martin35

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’m not a mechanic, but doesn’t the evidence show you may actually have a snooker table? The frame, the cushions both point to that. And if the table was only reclothed a few times in its life, the cushions are probably original.

In either case, it looks like you are having fun.

I think my table is a kind of hybrid. This table , I'm pretty sure, has been built in Canada and back then in Canada the vast majority of table was snooker table. My theory (may be I'm wrong) is that Brunswick was building pool table with snooker component. The rails have the thickness of a pool table (1-3/4") and the pocket was angle cut like pool, the cushions had the height to work with 2-1/4" balls and the casting have the opening of a pool table.

But on the other hand you're right saying that the cushion and probably the frame are snooker.

Martin
 
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Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
.... really just an amateur....

Martin - you are way ahead of me, i'm a "hoping to become an amateur" :wink:

Got a 1920's BBC T-rail table the wife bought, been making necessary veneers and inlays to repair the cabinet in between real work. Have not got close to any actual table work. So following along on projects like yours gives me ideas and hope. I do recognize the entire slate and rail system of these later/better tables is completely different from a T-rail, but watching someone solve table problems and occasional input from experts on some of the other posts is very informative. Also, will be very interested to see how you work out the ball return as i think you mentioned going that direction.

smt
 

martin35

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Week-end update

Guys

This week-end I've finished installing cushions, recut rails end at the right dimension which is a lot easier with the cushion on. Also I changed my mind after further reading and decided to use 3/16" neoprene facing instead of 1/8". It's seams that 3/16 is more popular amongs expert.

I'm pretty close to my 4.75 and 5.25 target and the 4 corners are consistent, I only have one side that is slighly oversized. (between 1/32 and 1/16 over ).

Sorry if I dont write long post but English is not my first language and for me it's time consuming but if you have questions feel free to ask.

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Martin
 
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bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
Martin,

It's looking pretty good. However, I recommend that your facings extend to the back of the featherstrip groove. This will make them sit tighter against the pocket, which prevents balls from hitting the exposed wood.

Nice work.
 

martin35

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thank you for your comment Geoff, it’s nice to get input from the pros. Regarding my facing, do you think adding a piece to extend them could work or should I start over ?

Martin
 
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bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
Thank you for your comment Geoff, it’s nice to get input from the pro’s. Regarding my facing, do you think adding a piece to extend them could work or should I start over ?

Martin

I thought about that... If it were me, I would start over.

However, you may be able to add a piece. To do so, it would probably be best to cut the facing a bit further ahead, so that your patch is a larger piece. Also be sure to bond the two pieces of rubber together. Keep in mind, cyanoacrylate adhesive will make the joint very hard. Use neoprene contact cement at the joint, just like you would use to bond the facing to the wood.

It looks like you will have to patch some wood, so that you have a flat, smooth surface for the extended rubber to bond to.
 

martin35

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It looks like you will have to patch some wood, so that you have a flat, smooth surface for the extended rubber to bond to.[/QUOTE]

I think so also because the extensions I've added stop at the end of the featherstrip groove. I think it will be probably better to remove the facing, extend the wood and install new facing. My only worry is to damage the cushion by removing the facing...

Anyway, I think I'll wait until I fit the pocket to see how much of a gap I have between the end of the facing and the beginning of the pocket.

Thanks Geoff
 
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