Can the typical cue maker work with Paulownia or Balsa?

C

Cron

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm looking to have a butt made out of 1 of these 2 materials, should they be able to work the wood and finish it? If a cue maker says they can do it, but ask for the wood to be supplied, which dimensions are best?

Looking for a lighter butt, I'm wondering if Balsa can be finished in a way to add a lot of strength but little weight. If not, I'm targeting Paulownia as a second option as that appears to be just twice the weight with nearly a 5x in hardness.
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
What is your target OAL weight? what does the shaft weigh?
dave
 
S

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Beyond weight, do you have a sense of how certain wood characteristics could influence the "hit" you desire?

Comparing figures for modulus of rupture, Elastic modulus, and crushing strength could be factors.

Would a hollow tube attain your goals? Either bored, or rolled veneer (the original carbon fiber)

If you can accept drilled for weight, western red cedar might be at a nexus that could provide other useful properties that influence "hit" & is one of the few besides balsa that can be easily acquired with really straight grain.

You will need a hardpoint/slightly denser wood for the joint screw. You've probably considered G10 as the screw type if low mass cue is your goal.

Any of the wood mentioned so far (Janka 350 & under) might benefit from a denser wood "collar", or phenolic at the joint, to resist the crushing effects of actually playing with the cue.

It's an interesting project.

smt
 
C

Cron

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
There isn't a desired feel at all. The G10 pin is probably a must, I have a cue with a radial G10 already, but does a G10 only come in radial and is radial the lightest choice?

As far as construction and finishing I'm open to anything honestly (although I'd prefer to have a weight bolt chamber if possible). I understand that a deformation and/or breaking factor comes into play, so if it breaks I'd write it off as beta 1 and try again with the makers suggestions. Your suggestion of a collar seems like a must as well, so thank you for that.
 
C

Cron

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So, just about any given cue maker should be able to do this right? Nothing out of the ordinary would be required like special lathe blades or what ever may be?
 
H

Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Cron said:
So, just about any given cue maker should be able to do this right? Nothing out of the ordinary would be required like special lathe blades or what ever may be?
Click to expand...

A certain degree of insanity to work with such unstable woods.
 
aphelps1

aphelps1

Phelps Custom Cues
Silver Member
The only way to hit your 6 oz. parameter would be with a full balsa wood butt, which would probably crumple on the first hit. A fully cored balsa butt would likely come in around 9.5 oz.

Alan
 
H

Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
aphelps1 said:
The only way to hit your 6 oz. parameter would be with a full balsa wood butt, which would probably crumple on the first hit. A fully cored balsa butt would likely come in around 9.5 oz.

Alan
Click to expand...

Keep in mind, Cron is the same user who argued that carbon fiber wasn’t strong enough for jumping or breaking.
 
PRED

PRED

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Get your maker to turn down a broom handle and glue some foam pipe insulation on it for a grip. 6oz - no problem and no costly coring.
 
C

Cron

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
aphelps1 said:
The only way to hit your 6 oz. parameter would be with a full balsa wood butt, which would probably crumple on the first hit. A fully cored balsa butt would likely come in around 9.5 oz.

Alan
Click to expand...

Well, I believe you but I already have a 28" Shedua butt from Schmelke that is 10.5oz (without bumper), but of course I don't know how it's constructed.

Thanks to all that helped! I will pass along Ssonerai's idea of a drilled for weight Western Red Cedar (that looks great as well), as the cue maker I might be able to commission is kind of new (or new'ish at least).

Thanks again!
 
Last edited:
cubswin

cubswin

Just call me Joe...
Silver Member
Balsa makes a fine crankbait, fairly strong when sealed. Can't imagine getting it made into a cue though.
 
JC

JC

Coos Cues
You can use a heavier wood like unstabilized spalted maple and then insert those penis implant balloons in the center and fill them with hydrogen.

Just keep the smokers away.

Or better yet can we gamble?
 
S

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A certain degree of insanity to work with such unstable woods
Click to expand...

Paulonia is unstable.
Not sure about balsa.
Reason i suggested WRC, if he actually follows through. Straight grain old growth is pretty stable, but heavier than he wants. It is also fairly stiff compared to the others.

smt
 
aphelps1

aphelps1

Phelps Custom Cues
Silver Member
Cron said:
Well, I believe you but I already have a 28" Shedua butt from Schmelke that is 10.5oz (without bumper), but of course I don't know how it's constructed.

Thanks to all that helped! I will pass along Ssonerai's idea of a drilled for weight Western Red Cedar (that looks great as well), as the cue maker I might be able to commission is kind of new (or new'ish at least).

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Best of luck with your venture.

Alan
 
desi2960

desi2960

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Way too soft

You do know that I can take my thumb nail and cut into balsa wood. I believe you could easily snap a piece of balsa wood the size of a cue.
I use balsa wood to core my l.d. shafts and work with it a lot.
 
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