Shaft Edge Alignment (Identifying the correct Perception in CTE Pro One)

S

Se7en6ix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Pro One is an objective aiming system.

Have you ever experienced being in a dilemma on which perception to use for a certain shot? Stan advises us that we should test it out so that we can charge it to experience. But as user of Pro One, we want a definitive procedure on how to identify this aim-points. Should we wait for our experience feed us the best and accurate perception to use? The answer is YES, but wouldn't it be fun, and exciting if we know a method that can exactly identify what perception is to use for a given shot? I'm sure it would, because it did for me.

I believe that a perception can be identified by either or all of the following:

  • Diamond Calculation (OB & CB Distance, OB distance to Rail/Pocket, CB Distance to Rail/Pocket)
  • Shaft Edge Alignment (This Topic)

But Today I’ll discuss the easiest method, the Shaft Edge Alignment. This method will surely save those whose still in the first step of learning Pro one, those who are confused/dilemma in which perception to use, and those proficient in Pro-One as they can add this technique for teaching or… well just knowing it. Hehehe :thumbup:

Let's Begin

SHAFT EDGE REFERENCES

Our Cue Shaft will be the deciding factor on which perception is to use when coupled with Object Ball Perception Points. There are two simple things to remember:

  1. 1. Left Cut Shots MEANS we’ll use the Left Shaft Edge (LSE)
  2. 2. Right Cut Shots MEANS we’ll use the Right Shaft Edge (RSE)

*Use the EDGE of the shaft which is identical to the direction of the cut.

See Image Below

shaft.PNG

=========================================================================

CUE PIVOTS

  1. 1. Align your cue behind the object ball (as close as possible, but don't get fouled) through the center of the intended pocket or aim.
  2. 2. Now pivot your cue while maintaining the cue tip at rest until we reach the center of our cue ball via specific Pool Cue/Cue Shaft Edge (in this example, it’s the Right Edge because it’s a right cut.)

See Image Below

Pivots.jpg

=========================================================================

CONNECTING WITH OBJECT BALL PERCEPTION POINTS

Now that we know how to align, pivot and identify which shaft edge is to use, we now identify which aim perception is to be used for a given shot.

OBJECT BALL PERCEPTION REFERENCES
The image below shows and object ball marked at the quarters with 15, 30, 45 and 60 Degrees.

See Image Below

Perception References.jpg

The following images below show how the object ball is divided by Zones (15°, 30°, 45° and 60°).
Again the deciding factor here is the edge of your shaft (Left or Right)

Cuts.jpg

FOR LEFT CUTS If the Left Edge of your shaft falls:

  1. 1) Within 30 & 15 (up to the left quarter of the object ball), then you are to use a 15° Perception (AIM POINT A)
  2. 2) Within 45 (1 mm inside the actual 45) & 30, then you are to use a 30° Perception. (AIM POINT B)
  3. 3) Exactly at the right outer edge (45°) the then you are to use a 45° Perception. (AIM POINT C)
  4. 4) Outside (right) of the object ball, then that’s a 60° Perception (1/8 Overlap).

FOR RIGHT CUTS If the RIGHT Edge of your shaft falls:
  1. 1) Within 30 & 15 (up to the right quarter of the object ball), then you are to use a 15° Perception (AIM POINT C)
  2. 2) Within 45 (1 mm inside the actual 45) & 30, then you are to use a 30° Perception. (AIM POINT B)
  3. 3) Exactly at the left outer edge (45°) the then you are to use a 45° Perception. (AIM POINT A)
  4. 4) Outside (left) of the object ball, then that’s a 60° Perception (1/8 Overlap).

=========================================================================

SAMPLES (Right Cuts to the Side Pocket) :grin-square:

samples.jpg

=========================================================================

And that’s it! It’s EASY, SIMPLE & ACCURATE.
Additionally this method can be also used for banking especially if you have knowledge about diamond systems (Zero X Kicks/Banks).
Although testing each perception is advantageous and true, there are times that you can’t wait for experience to kick in.

Thanks to Stan for bringing Pro One. I Hope you (PRO1 users) enjoyed this post.
 
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S

stan shuffett

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Se7en6ix,
Very nice perception guide. I like it a lot......well enough to use it as an insert in my teaching manuals.
Thank you very, very much for your keen interest in CTE PRO ONE.
Stan Shuffett

***In trying this technique out for various perception checks this morning, it does work very well but does break down for some distance shots where the 30 is ruled out because of distance. ( This is not a problem if one understands distance and Aimpoint B)
I will continue my checks.

By following the CTE PRO ONE distance rule for Aim point B, one would know to go to either 15 or 45.
 
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S

Se7en6ix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
BeiberLvr said:
This could be very helpful for a beginner.

My only question is does a greater distance between OB and CB have any effect? So that when you pivot, the shaft won't go over CCB.
Click to expand...

Well, actually I faced that problem too..

No it does not have any effect.
If it's too far away (CB & OB) pivot your cue until your reach Cue ball position (Not Exactly over it coz it's far, just perceive it on the same direction.)

Actually Based on my experience (Prior to Pro one), I don't need to pivot, why? simply because I know where to put my cue tip behind the object ball without looking at the direction of the cut or aim, some would say it's a ghost ball method, well probably it is.

I think an image would explain it well.

Distant.PNG
 
S

Se7en6ix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
stan shuffett said:
Se7en6ix,
Very nice perception guide. I like it a lot......well enough to use it as an insert in my teaching manuals.
Thank you very, very much for your keen interest in CTE PRO ONE.
Stan Shuffett

***In trying this technique out for various perception checks this morning, it does work very well but does break down for some distance shots where the 30 is ruled out because of distance. I will continue my checks.
Click to expand...

Yes, thanks..
By the way, based on your DVD, you advise us not to use aim point B due to distance ( more than 4 Diamonds), and that's what you prefer yourself.

and obviously we follow your advise, But would it hurt if say that I can perceive Aim Point B with CTE Line perfectly....? okay not perfect, but i really can perceive Aim Point B even if its 5 Diamonds away.

well of course pocketing the object ball is a different story hehehe
 
S

stan shuffett

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Se7en6ix said:
Yes, thanks..
By the way, based on your DVD, you advise us not to use aim point B due to distance ( more than 4 Diamonds), and that's what you prefer yourself.

and obviously we follow your advise, But would it hurt if say that I can perceive Aim Point B with CTE Line perfectly....? okay not perfect, but i really can perceive Aim Point B even if its 5 Diamonds away.

well of course pocketing the object ball is a different story hehehe
Click to expand...

I have checked this with students and I find the B/CTE really breaks at about 54/55" but it can depend on where you are positioned at the table.
I can not see the 30 accurately at 5 diamonds... Very close though.

Stan Shuffett
 
S

Se7en6ix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
stan shuffett said:
I have checked this with students and I find the B/CTE really breaks at about 54/55" but it can depend on where you are positioned at the table.
I can not see the 30 accurately at 5 diamonds... Very close though.

Stan Shuffett
Click to expand...

oohhh I see... now I know the reason why there are times when I hit at the point of the intended pocket and miss whenever I'm faced with a 30 Degree Perception and 4.5+ diamonds away.

It's like I'm forcing it to be a 30 Degree shot, where in reality it can be pocketed via 45 or 15 Degree shot with Left/right pivot.
--------------------------------------------------------------
 
S

stan shuffett

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Se7en6ix said:
oohhh I see... now I know the reason why there are times when I hit at the point of the intended pocket and miss whenever I'm faced with a 30 Degree Perception and 4.5+ diamonds away.

It's like I'm forcing it to be a 30 Degree shot, where in reality it can be pocketed via 45 or 15 Degree shot with Left/right pivot.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Click to expand...

Exactly! I just did all that moments ago.

Great guide! I will use it as a teaching tool for assisting with perception choices.

Thanks again ,

Stan Shuffett
 
JE54

JE54

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Excellent idea..........................
 
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S

stan shuffett

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
There are some mistakes in the LEFT AND RIGHT CUT listings.

The 30 p should be AIM POINT B. And I am not seeing the his directions for the 45 p. in the LEFT OR RIGHT LIST progressions.

Also one of the 7/8 should be 1/8.

Please do not use this guide as an absolute at this point.
Hopefully it can be further refined as I do like the concept.



Stan Shuffett
 
robsnotes4u

robsnotes4u

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
At what distance are you placing you tip behind the ball as that will make a difference. so you read the SEE system to find angles and are trying to adapt it to your perceptions?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
pablocruz

pablocruz

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
One of the difficulties in discussing CTE/Pro One is that people seem to be extremely reluctant to use the terms that Stan uses with the definitions he assigns to them. Or to pay much attention to what he actually says at all.
 
JE54

JE54

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm sure Stan will refine this even more.
 
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S

stan shuffett

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Having spent some time with the reference guide today, I do like it as a very basic tool that can be used in choosing some perceptions but there are gaps. Just so you know !

I would be remiss if I did not mention that ultimately, the accurate way to test ANY perception is a manual pivot based on 2 fixed CB edges and a strict 1/2 tip pivot. This a skill that will reward anyone along their way should they learn to use it properly.
Manual pivoting as a dry run is super easy to do.

Stan Shuffett
 
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S

Se7en6ix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
robsnotes4u said:
At what distance are you placing you tip behind the ball as that will make a difference. so you read the SEE system to find angles and are trying to adapt it to your perceptions?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...

A quarter of a ball away behind the object ball, or even 2mm as long as you don't hit the object ball with your tip (The Closer the better, just don't get fouled hehe).

I have been using this Shaft edge alignment prior to any aiming system that i know of now so that I could perceive that contact point easily..

I have SEE-system in my arsenal, I only use that when I'm unable to reach a certain shot that my body could not sweep properly.
Some could argue that it could be a rip-off of SEE-system's angle identification by cue stick. Well they have the right to do so, coz it's very close.

I designed it specifically for pro one (probably another person on another part of the world have the same idea, but it just so happens that I posted it first)


To answer your question, I do not read SEE-System to make it adapt to Pro One Perceptions.
=========================================================================

and since you mentioned the word "adapt" maybe one day or in the near future... "I'll post SEE-System using Pro One Visual Sweeps"
but as of now I want this Shaft Edge alignment to be perused and give feedback by Pro1 Users, especially Stan for he is the only one I know that could cement this idea that it works or not

Thanks
 
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S

Se7en6ix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
stan shuffett said:
There are some mistakes in the LEFT AND RIGHT CUT listings.

The 30 p should be AIM POINT B. And I am not seeing the his directions for the 45 p. in the LEFT OR RIGHT LIST progressions.

Also one of the 7/8 should be 1/8.

Please do not use this guide as an absolute at this point.
Hopefully it can be further refined as I do like the concept.

Stan Shuffett
Click to expand...

Just made the Edits....
 
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S

Se7en6ix

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
stan shuffett said:
Having spent some time with the reference guide today, I do like it as a very basic tool that can be used in choosing some perceptions but there are gaps. Just so you know !

I would be remiss if I did not mention that ultimately, the accurate way to test ANY perception is a manual pivot based on 2 fixed CB edges and a strict 1/2 tip pivot. This a skill that will reward anyone along their way should they learn to use it properly.
Manual pivoting as a dry run is super easy to do.

Stan Shuffett
Click to expand...

Agree! :thumbup:

I'm still in the process of mastering the manual pivots (don't know, manual are harder for me hehe). :D
 
Last edited:
pablocruz

pablocruz

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Se7en6ix said:
Pro One is an objective aiming system.

Have you ever experienced being in a dilemma on which perception to use for a certain shot? Stan advises us that we should test it out so that we can charge it to experience. But as user of Pro One, we want a definitive procedure on how to identify this aim-points. Should we wait for our experience feed us the best and accurate perception to use? The answer is YES, but wouldn't it be fun, and exciting if we know a method that can exactly identify what perception is to use for a given shot? I'm sure it would, because it did for me.

I believe that a perception can be identified by either or all of the following:

  • Diamond Calculation (OB & CB Distance, OB distance to Rail/Pocket, CB Distance to Rail/Pocket)
  • Shaft Edge Alignment (This Topic)

But Today I’ll discuss the easiest method, the Shaft Edge Alignment. This method will surely save those whose still in the first step of learning Pro one, those who are confused/dilemma in which perception to use, and those proficient in Pro-One as they can add this technique for teaching or… well just knowing it. Hehehe :thumbup:

Let's Begin

SHAFT EDGE REFERENCES

Our Cue Shaft will be the deciding factor on which perception is to use when coupled with Object Ball Perception Points. There are two simple things to remember:

  1. 1. Left Cut Shots MEANS we’ll use the Left Shaft Edge (LSE)
  2. 2. Right Cut Shots MEANS we’ll use the Right Shaft Edge (RSE)

*Use the EDGE of the shaft which is identical to the direction of the cut.

See Image Below

View attachment 335425

=========================================================================

CUE PIVOTS

  1. 1. Align your cue behind the object ball (as close as possible, but don't get fouled) through the center of the intended pocket or aim.
  2. 2. Now pivot your cue while maintaining the cue tip at rest until we reach the center of our cue ball via specific Pool Cue/Cue Shaft Edge (in this example, it’s the Right Edge because it’s a right cut.)

See Image Below

View attachment 335426

=========================================================================

CONNECTING WITH OBJECT BALL PERCEPTION POINTS

Now that we know how to align, pivot and identify which shaft edge is to use, we now identify which aim perception is to be used for a given shot.

OBJECT BALL PERCEPTION REFERENCES
The image below shows and object ball marked at the quarters with 15, 30, 45 and 60 Degrees.

See Image Below

View attachment 335427

The following images below show how the object ball is divided by Zones (15°, 30°, 45° and 60°).
Again the deciding factor here is the edge of your shaft (Left or Right)

View attachment 335430

FOR LEFT CUTS If the Left Edge of your shaft falls:

  1. 1) Within 30 & 15 (up to the left quarter of the object ball), then you are to use a 15° Perception (AIM POINT A)
  2. 2) Within 45 (1 mm inside the actual 45) & 30, then you are to use a 30° Perception. (AIM POINT B)
  3. 3) Exactly at the right outer edge (45°) the then you are to use a 45° Perception. (AIM POINT C)
  4. 4) Outside (right) of the object ball, then that’s a 60° Perception (1/8 Overlap).

FOR RIGHT CUTS If the RIGHT Edge of your shaft falls:
  1. 1) Within 30 & 15 (up to the right quarter of the object ball), then you are to use a 15° Perception (AIM POINT C)
  2. 2) Within 45 (1 mm inside the actual 45) & 30, then you are to use a 30° Perception. (AIM POINT B)
  3. 3) Exactly at the left outer edge (45°) the then you are to use a 45° Perception. (AIM POINT A)
  4. 4) Outside (left) of the object ball, then that’s a 60° Perception (1/8 Overlap).

=========================================================================

SAMPLES (Right Cuts to the Side Pocket) :grin-square:

View attachment 335431

=========================================================================

And that’s it! It’s EASY, SIMPLE & ACCURATE.
Additionally this method can be also used for banking especially if you have knowledge about diamond systems (Zero X Kicks/Banks).
Although testing each perception is advantageous and true, there are times that you can’t wait for experience to kick in.

Thanks to Stan for bringing Pro One. I Hope you (PRO1 users) enjoyed this post.
Click to expand...

I've thought about this! I personally do not find this good for CTE/Pro-One! You are taking a guesstimate of the ghost ball position! That is not what Pro-One is about! Pro-One is about Aiming Angles to get to the shot line. Cue ball and object ball angles ( the angle your cue makes connecting the cue ball and object ball centers known as the shot line) decreases with distance. As well deflection angles increase with distance. This is what makes Pro-One unique with the slight over cut built in.
 
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