Broke My Starrett

SlateMate

Banned
i decided to completely re-level because i was not happy with the way it was. so i removed all the shims and started anew. after a few tries going from the east end and failing i decided to start from the other end which worked. the ball was rolling off toward the center on both sides so i shimmed in the middle which was not easy on this table because of the particle board they used for the surface of the base. but i kept after it and finally got it, I THINK. i was checking the level one last time with my 12" Starrett and i accidentally tapped the glass with a screwdriver and it broke. peed me right off.... so i now i have to buy a new vial and fix the mofo. no big deal and i was glad that it happened at the very end of the job.

what i don't understand his how tables are set-up without shimming the slate in the center. i see it all the time but i always have to shim in the center. what gives?
 
Last edited:

SlateMate

Banned
making fun of my spelling?

another question about Starrett levels and vial replacement:

i took this thing apart and got the plaster out by putting a thick, rolled-up piece of sandpaper around a drill bit. it went pretty fast BUT, why can't we just use a round piece of neoprene or similar to hold the vial in-place? that plaster really sux...
 

bradsh98

Bradshaw Billiard Service
Silver Member
making fun of my spelling?

another question about Starrett levels and vial replacement:

i took this thing apart and got the plaster out by putting a thick, rolled-up piece of sandpaper around a drill bit. it went pretty fast BUT, why can't we just use a round piece of neoprene or similar to hold the vial in-place? that plaster really sux...

Have fun calibrating it everytime you use it....

Plaster is intended to be a permanent fix. Take care of your tools, and never have to worry about the replacement.
 

SlateMate

Banned
yeah, i thought about that . it seems to me that we should be able to put some elec tape around the ends of the vial to keep it from moving then some rolled-up neoprene in the ends. the worst that can happen is that it moves and i have to go to plan "B" of plan "C". and i was taking very good care of it but i grabbed it with a screwdriver in my hand and just barely tapped the glass and that's all it took. i am going to make a clear plastic protector that goes over the vial but still allows for the stock aluminum protector to slide over for storage.
 

reverend

Table Mechanic
Silver Member
i am going to make a clear plastic protector that goes over the vial but still allows for the stock aluminum protector to slide over for storage.

I make Lexan (polycarbonate) "sleeves" for all my levels.

Polycarbonate Tubing, 5/8" ID, 3/4" OD for the 8" levels
Polycarbonate Tubing, 3/4" ID x 1" OD - for the 12" levels

Cut a strip out of the tube until it almost snaps over the vial. Heat it up slowly until its pliable. Snap it over the vial and let it cool.

polycarbonate_tube.png
 

SlateMate

Banned
Have fun calibrating it everytime you use it....

i'm thinking about using drywall patch. it won't allow the glass to move around and will be much easier to get out the next time i break it.
 

ROB.M

:)
Silver Member
Level

There is many tricks to the trade, like getting the vial up and flush to the top of the tube and having the high end on the right side so that when you put it back together the adjustments are not out of reach..


Good luck n go get em’

Rob.M
 

Attachments

  • 2F66ED06-9646-4650-AFB7-F3528A24BBB0.jpg
    2F66ED06-9646-4650-AFB7-F3528A24BBB0.jpg
    55.5 KB · Views: 358
Last edited:

SlateMate

Banned
he said if it was ideal the factory would do it and design it into the tool like they do on the master level...

Rob: interesting but i can't see how a plastic sleeve protector is going to adversely effect the readings. i'm considering putting plastic over the protector sleeve itself and the vial won't 'know' that it's there.... also: corporations make a lot of money on replacement parts for their products.

additionally: when all is said and done with the level, you have to do the ball-roll test for final adjustments anyway. so while the machinists level is great for getting the slate very close, a crappy pool ball is the final arbiter. when i first started doing this myself i thought that after i added my Simonis those slight ball roll-offs would not be evident but the ball rolled-off EXACTLY as it did without cloth. so i'm at the stage now where i don't need my Starrett and it's a good thing because i'm awaiting my vial replacement.
 
Last edited:

SlateMate

Banned
got my starrett back together and in the process figured out a great way to get the plaster in without making a huge mess after i made a huge mess.... i used a 60ml syringe and poked it into the tube and blobbed out some plaster right where you want it. no plaster in the ends to wipe off afterwards. i got fancy and used some pink paper as a backing and some teflon tape to snug the cover. got it calibrated and working great. now i just have to get some plastic tubing to protect that vial.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF2825.JPG
    DSCF2825.JPG
    108.3 KB · Views: 262
Last edited:
Top