Denatured Alcohol on Pool Shafts?

ChrisinNC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Instead of 1500 grit fine sandpaper, I've recently been using Renaissance wood wax, which was recommended on a thread here by a number of members, on my Mezz WX900 shafts. I've used the wax number of times and I've recently started to feel it wasn't working as well - as perhaps too much wax was building up on the shafts from doing this.

The other day I doused a little 95% natural denatured alcohol on a cloth and rubbed down the shaft with it - it evaporates virtually almost instantly. The shaft now feels considerably smoother. Just curious if anyone knows, is there any downside to applying denatured alcohol to a wood shaft on a regular basis to keep it slick?

I know from first hand experience to never again use the denatured alcohol on a magic eraser to clean off the high gloss finish on the butt of the cue - as it will permanently dull the high gloss finish, but I wasn't sure if there were any concerns I need to be aware of in using it on the shaft portion of the cue? Thanks
 
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JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
It's ok on non-laminated shafts.
My sealer has 20% denatured alcohol to thin it out.
 

Cron

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I don't know what finish is on the shaft, but there shouldn't be a problem.

Are you buffing the wax off? If you leave it on there without a good buffing then yeh, it's going to build up. Honestly, waxing is O.K. to fill in little micro crevices, but otherwise it's not needed. I use car buffing compounds when finishing poly on hard maples, but never wax on new finishes. On older finishes I simply buff more.

Ultimately, I personally feel you've sort of went backwards in your intentions on applying wax at all. I've never seen a use case where wax is just left on over time without some sort of friction removing it (unless it's for a cosmetic purpose where friction should never occur).
 

KenRobbins

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've been using denatured alcohol on my shafts for years. I'm known to over do it when it comes to taking care of my things. If it had any bad effects, old shafts of mine would be destroyed by now, but that's not the case. Just like waxing a car, you want to give it a good cleaning first.
 

ChrisinNC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I don't know what finish is on the shaft, but there shouldn't be a problem.

Are you buffing the wax off? If you leave it on there without a good buffing then yeh, it's going to build up. Honestly, waxing is O.K. to fill in little micro crevices, but otherwise it's not needed. I use car buffing compounds when finishing poly on hard maples, but never wax on new finishes. On older finishes I simply buff more.

Ultimately, I personally feel you've sort of went backwards in your intentions on applying wax at all. I've never seen a use case where wax is just left on over time without some sort of friction removing it (unless it's for a cosmetic purpose where friction should never occur).
When using the Renaissance wax, after applying a little bit of it evenly on the shaft with a cloth, after no more than 60 seconds, I vigorously wipe it down with a clean dry towel, so in that respect, the wax I'm applying is not hardening on the shaft before being buffed down. Thanks
 

KenRobbins

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
When using the Renaissance wax, after applying a little bit of it evenly on the shaft with a cloth, after no more than 60 seconds, I vigorously wipe it down with a clean dry towel, so in that respect, the wax I'm applying is not hardening on the shaft before being buffed down. Thanks

My usual routine is cleaning the balls and shaft at the same time. lol

I don't soak a microfiber cloth with the denatured alcohol, just so it's a little damp, then clean the shaft. I let the shaft sit to make sure it's dried out before waxing, usually 10 to 15 minutes. I clean half of the balls at this time, usually run the bucket for 2 minutes then wipe each one down. Then I wax the shaft and let it sit until I'm done with the other half set of balls. After that I'll buff the shaft.
 

Cron

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
When using the Renaissance wax, after applying a little bit of it evenly on the shaft with a cloth, after no more than 60 seconds, I vigorously wipe it down with a clean dry towel, so in that respect, the wax I'm applying is not hardening on the shaft before being buffed down. Thanks

I wouldn't be surprised that you're either A. Removing all wax, or B. Not buffing enough. Here are some links describing the end effect you're experiencing (it's not visible to you as under this application).

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/26127
https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/discussions/topic/finishing-with-wax-over-shellac/

And this link describes popular alternatives, if you really want to use wax...

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/renaissance-wax.1549070/page-2


Under no applicable circumstance do any of those links or any other piece of literature I've read would suggest using wax on an item that will have constant wear from friction (without continuous application). A pool shaft is non-stop, 24/7 rubbed down.

I'd find an actual woodworker somewhere and get a definitive answer. I only do odds and ends at leisure, but I've never heard of using wax for such a purpose which will be under constant friction. Well, not unless it is constantly removed requiring constant application (i.e. surfing). So the problem of having to continuously apply it isn't you're only problem, you also have the problem of having to make sure it is completely (or at least evenly) removed EVERY time.

Maybe get a glove :).
 
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tucson9ball

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Guido Orlandi(sp) got me using the Denatured Alcohol about 10 years ago, maybe more. He told me to never use the regular isopropyl alcohol, due to it having too much water.
The denatured works as a cleaner, then you can apply the wax.
One thing I have changed over the years is that I don't use wax any longer.
I clean the shaft with a tissue and denatured alcohol. Then a put a couple drops of Cue Silk on another tissue. Rub it on - let it dry for a few minutes and buff it off.
Keeps the shaft slicker than snot :)
 

KenRobbins

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Guido Orlandi(sp) got me using the Denatured Alcohol about 10 years ago, maybe more. He told me to never use the regular isopropyl alcohol, due to it having too much water.
The denatured works as a cleaner, then you can apply the wax.
One thing I have changed over the years is that I don't use wax any longer.
I clean the shaft with a tissue and denatured alcohol. Then a put a couple drops of Cue Silk on another tissue. Rub it on - let it dry for a few minutes and buff it off.
Keeps the shaft slicker than snot :)

I just learned something today. I never spent time studying the difference between denatured and isopropyl alcohol. I actually thought it was the same. I've been using the isopropyl alcohol all this time and still don't have any issues, but will get some of the denatured from now on. The isopropyl dries up so fast and cleans also, so never gave it much more thought than that.
 

KenRobbins

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member

slach

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
There's different strengths of rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol, most common from Walgreens is 70% (30% water) but you can find it up to 99%. I cringe when it's suggested to use water on wood, it gets in the cells and swells them, raised the grain and so on. Use a strong isopropyl, it'll dissolve most oils and wax and cleans well without effecting the wood. Be aware that alcohol dissolves shellac and a few other soft finishes.
 

mikemosconi

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have used 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean my shafts after Every usage and have not had any issues in 30 years of doing this. I have tried cue waxes and they never seem very effective so I just use a billiard glove with clean high quality maple shafts all the time when playing and all is fine . My bridge hand is very sensitive to any moisture on the shaft when playing - so the pool glove is a lifesaver for me. I would use nothing less than 91% alcohol as others have stated- less water content is the key. Grain alcohol is not recommended- the fumes from your shaft will mess up you game! LOL!
 

Tom1234

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
When using the Renaissance wax, after applying a little bit of it evenly on the shaft with a cloth, after no more than 60 seconds, I vigorously wipe it down with a clean dry towel, so in that respect, the wax I'm applying is not hardening on the shaft before being buffed down. Thanks

What he said. From experience, once you apply Renaissance wax, you must buff pretty quickly.
 

Cron

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Soak your shaft in some motor oil for us and give us a review. :smile:

:), I will take you up on that. I have this old Lucasi shaft with a finish rubbed down 6 ways to Sunday, so what the hell. It works great in my GE 1/3 HP motor (the original made in 1949 and still kicking!!) in my MultiMixer (5 spindle direct drive malt/shake machine), but that isn't a finish piece of wood :). I'm even going to etch it up so it really soaks in! Time will tell.... Surfs up bro!
 
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KMRUNOUT

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Guido Orlandi(sp) got me using the Denatured Alcohol about 10 years ago, maybe more. He told me to never use the regular isopropyl alcohol, due to it having too much water.

The denatured works as a cleaner, then you can apply the wax.

One thing I have changed over the years is that I don't use wax any longer.

I clean the shaft with a tissue and denatured alcohol. Then a put a couple drops of Cue Silk on another tissue. Rub it on - let it dry for a few minutes and buff it off.

Keeps the shaft slicker than snot :)



Typical isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) is 70%. You can easily get 91% everywhere, like CVS. The water content is low enough that you shouldn’t have any issues using it on wood. It evaporates very quickly. I’d avoid using 70% however. Denatured alcohol will be just a tick “drier” than 91%, but it really isn’t a huge difference.

KMRUNOUT


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