Anniversary Snooker cushions

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cjl0s

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
I am in the process of setting up a 5x10 Anniversary Snooker table. Upon taking off the old cloth, my mechanic discovered that the bends are a separate piece from the main rubber. The middle piece says Brunswick Monarch Superspeed. I talked to Ken at Classic Billiards after suggestions from local stores. Thanks Ken! He was expecting something called Monarch Match Superspeed on a snooker table. It looks like the rail height is K66 at about 1.25" He mentioned the rubber is stamped someplace but I cannot find this. Any suggestions? Absent this I would need to remove the rubber and measure the back to be sure. The table plays very well regardless, so I am tempted to just recover and move on, but I wonder if new rubber is appropriate at this point and could I actually find the appropriate rubber at this point without breaking the bank? Any thoughts appreciated?
 
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11am

Registered
I have recently done a total restore on a 5x10 Snooker table with the K-55 cushions and add on bends. If you put K-66 cushions on, the bends will not line up. There will be a noticeable hump at all joints, and the table will be relatively useless to play on. It is K-55 only for this type of cushion arrangement. You can assume you have K-55's if there is no unevenness. If your cushions are WELL adhered to the rails, with no weak spots, AND your rails are playable with the existing bends uniform and flush to the cushion at the splice, then you are good to go.
 
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C

cjl0s

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
The table is now set up. I had to bring in a second mechanic because the first one did not know how to set the table up. The 2nd guy reclothed the table and attached the rails. The cushions seem to line up well with no noticeable humps. The rubber is lively. The only problem is the left side pocket looks a little off with one sides not proportionate with the other. Lobsided. To fix this my new mechanic is talking about filing the bolt holes to move the rail slightly toward the head part of the table. I am a little nervous about him doing this. I wonder if it is possible the rails have been attached in the wrong order and another piece belongs there. The long rails were moved in one piece on both sides from the old owner but that does not mean it was not put together correctly before.

The mechanics assembled all 4 rails and dropped it in place. Is it possible the sides are switched? I am pretty concerned.
 
1

11am

Registered
It really depends on the table being made for snooker, or if it was pieced together custom. That was the case with the table I restored. It was made custom ( no name) for the club40 years ago in the 80's, from different origins. and it was terribly done, imo The rails were hacked, and the bolt seats were illy and carelessly aligned. I reseated 11. Now if your table is all GC, (we also have a GC 12 x 6 snooker table with the traditional L shaped rails with flat noses). I would say that you should be in fairly good stead, construction wise. I also don't go for that put the rails together and flip it on the table, nonsense. I spent many months repairing 20 hacked, otherwise very respectable tables assembled in that manner. My tables go back together and get aligned and squared in the setup, one rail at a time. Saving an extra 15 minutes, while destroying someones tables, is not my idea of of a time saver? Pet peeve, I guess. You can be sure those cushions are K-55's, and you will need to play with the American Snooker Ball Diameter on those rails, the traditional size snooker balls are slightly smaller (1/16) and don't cut it on K-55 cushion nose heights. If I'm not mistaken, the standard pocket size for the GC Snooker 10 ft x 5, as well as the 12 x 6, is 4" at the corners, and 5 at the sides, although some people like them tighter at the corners at 3.5, and 4.5 at the sides, which requires a lot of shims or sub rail work, which compounds problems on American made Snooker tables. JMO mind you. Good luck with your table
 
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