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Ever replace those padded wraps?
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cueman
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Ever replace those padded wraps? - 10-17-2012, 08:32 AM

Have any of you ever replaced those padded wraps? I guess those are becoming more popular now and I had one come in from Switzerland this week for me to change to a Gator print wrap. So I thought I would share my experience.

First off those wraps feel pretty good, so in the future I will definitely try to talk them into keeping it. It was a real pain to get off. I cut it down the middle like I was cutting a seam and pulled on it. The top skin came off easy enough, but that left blue foam stuck to the wrap area. I tried scraping it off with a blade. That did not work. I try spinning it and using wood chisles to remove it. It just gummed up. Then I kept soaking it with adheasive remove and took one of those really course grill cleaing pads and scrubbed it off. That all took at least a half hour.

Then the wrap groove was .075" deep. In other words .150" smaller in diameter than than the cue. So instead of building up a few thousandths with epoxy like I would normally do I wrapped it with a thicker piece of normal black leather and then wrapped the gator over that.

It was impossible to get the cue to spinning true as they are nor perfectly round. I think they put that thick black plastic coating on the cues after they are made and the thickness must vary. Then I had to cut a new groove in a Predator that he sent along side the Big Beullah break cue. It had the same turning issues. The hole in the end on both cues was several thousandths out to the rest of the cue and even shimming that over would not get it perfectly true as the roundness issues were there. So I put the cue through the headstock and cut a little of the groove at a time until I got a wrap groove that was very close to perfect.

Bottom line is these imported cues are a real pain to work on. What should have been a couple hours of work to remove one wrap, cut a groove in another and put two gator wraps on took the better part of two afternoons.

Anyone else have any suggestions for making life easier working on those plastic coated cues or replacing those wraps????

Last edited by cueman; 10-18-2012 at 09:40 AM.
  
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10-17-2012, 11:28 AM

Ha ha.
Nope
I cut a wrap into a p2 and it was so bad I had to fill with epoxy in sections
I learned my lesson....no cutting grooves into warped cues


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padded wrap
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padded wrap - 10-17-2012, 01:47 PM

About a year ago I decided to never work on any chinese imports again.
I've never regretted it. Almost impossible to guess what you are going to
find. And, you can't really charge what your time is worth on a 200.00 cue.


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10-17-2012, 01:58 PM

I have been taking on a lot more of these lately since I lost my day job of 13 years and talk about a test of patience its tuff on some just to replace a steel join collar because nothing is concentric it seems even though they roll nice on the table.
I found the only way for me to do the wrap area was wood veneer and use a file to cut in the edges blend with sand paper on angle iron and fine tune the edges with a razor blade

and something I learned is to let the veneer dry very good after you glue it(especially if you are doing 2 layers) and seal before applying elmers so You don't have it all flush one day and the next

also it seems the died veneer doesn't swell as bad

P.S. thanks Chris for putting this out there I thought I was the only one getting these problem cue lately



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Last edited by juspooln; 10-17-2012 at 02:05 PM.
  
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10-17-2012, 02:08 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cutter View Post
About a year ago I decided to never work on any chinese imports again.
I've never regretted it. Almost impossible to guess what you are going to
find. And, you can't really charge what your time is worth on a 200.00 cue.
but think of all the swearing and gray hairs you are missing out on
and oh ya the 6.50 an hour



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10-17-2012, 03:30 PM

One of the greatest bits of knowledge that I've taken from this site was provided by Mr. Michael Webb.
I re-wrap a few Predators with the 'Lux-wrap' that is similar in composition and dimensions as to what Chris described.
A .060/.075" step can be a trick to fill. Brother Mike turned me on to the veneer method and I haven't looked back since.
Veneers can be had in various thickness so matching your depth can be accomplished easily.
I tape-off the ends, install the veneer using epoxy and wrap with surgical tubing until cured.
Using epoxy allows the veneer to become one with the cue, ie, it's permanent.

Oh, removing the rubber or Lux-wrap, I first tried removing them by hand but it was very labor intensive and time consuming.
Most of the time I was tearing it off in small pieces.
Then one afternoon when I wasn't real busy, I decided to find a better way. My buddy Jim Babcock (MC2) had once
told me that Mr. Steve Lomax does amazing things with just a razor blade.
I had a utility knife nearby and decided to give it a go. A sharp blade is essential.
After getting my technique dialed-in, the wraps were coming off like a buttered glove.
They're only difficult until you learn how to do it better.

KJ

Last edited by KJ Cues; 10-17-2012 at 03:33 PM.
  
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10-17-2012, 08:17 PM

Thank you KJ:

Hope this helps some of you, I used the concave and convex cutting template and just a ruler: A damp sponge is a must to assist in the folding.
Just wet the top side, not the glue side. The veneer will naturally curl.






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10-18-2012, 06:07 AM

Thanks thats a great idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  
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10-18-2012, 07:52 AM

I decided never to work on imports again, far to much trouble and you never know what "can of worms" you just opened.

I have replaced one of those foam like wraps and luckily I saw KJ's post about using veneer to build up the wrap area, its wonderful. Made the mistake of telling a friend that I would replace the handle on his import, the amboyna was beautiful, until I got into it. Little did I know that cue had metal ALL the way through it ! Never again lol.

I used a utility knife, fresh blade, and peeled it off like peeling an apple using the wrap motor, worked like a charm. I swithed to the large motor for cleaning off what stuck to the handle after.


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i just say no thank you
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i just say no thank you - 10-18-2012, 08:05 AM

chris, i learned this from my jewelry business, i will not work on a piece of walmart jewelry. i have had too many pieces just fall apart in my hands when trying to do a simple repair. i do not understand people that buy a piece of crap, pool cue, car, jewelry no matter what, then expect to have it repaired depending on the cost of the piece.
  
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10-18-2012, 08:45 AM

Hey Chris,

At the BCA is May in Vegas I did about 4 or 5 of these wraps and besides being a pain to remove, like you said, the thing that worked the best for me was to use a cork wrap and then install the leather wrap on top of it. It was always on the money and looked fantastic.


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10-20-2012, 02:54 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Guerra Cues View Post
Hey Chris,

At the BCA is May in Vegas I did about 4 or 5 of these wraps and besides being a pain to remove, like you said, the thing that worked the best for me was to use a cork wrap and then install the leather wrap on top of it. It was always on the money and looked fantastic.

Just did one today that couldn't be re-cut, there was absolutely nothing straight anywhere, and old cue. I chose a stiff piece of pig skin then sanded lightly and wrapped linen over it. Some times it's just brutal and you don't know til the old wrap is removed.


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10-20-2012, 09:48 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by desi2960 View Post
chris, i learned this from my jewelry business, i will not work on a piece of walmart jewelry. i have had too many pieces just fall apart in my hands when trying to do a simple repair. i do not understand people that buy a piece of crap, pool cue, car, jewelry no matter what, then expect to have it repaired depending on the cost of the piece.
I am glad I did not tell you my oversized wedding band that you resized for me came from Walmart.
  
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"Sports grip" cues
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"Sports grip" cues - 10-20-2012, 11:46 AM

I did a P2 some years ago and it was a pain in the A
http://www.kendocues.com/Websted/P2.html
I think I posted this work up here but have not searching.

The idea was to get rid of it all - the backing "leather" and so forth and then I used
stacked leather. On the linked I used kangaroo leather which I dyed.
A sharp knife helped and also a paint scraper...

The last one I did was a McDermott with a similar grip. The owner had "knifed"
the original of - the butt section had several deep cut's in the wrap area.
For this I used a "artificial" leather - those used by the "pimp my car" guys.
Glued that up - then installed a stacked leather on top of that - but the outcome
was not to my likings.

Not sure if I would do that many more if the wrap groove is to deep so a stacked leather could not build it up.

As Chris mentions - it takes a couple of evenings and is a pain to do.

Just my thoughts on it.

K


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