it's best to put low on the cuts to prevent the cue ball from jumping off the rail
There is truth to this, Jay, and furthermore when the ball is close to the rail it's best to put low on the cuts to prevent the cue ball from jumping off the rail.
Sometimes you have to hit the really thin cuts with a lot of authority just to get them to the pocket. "Low" come off the rail with "High" and you can hit it as hard as you want without fear of it jumping off the table.
Of course I also suggest using a "TOI" when hitting it low to make sure it cuts thin.
There is truth to this, Jay, and furthermore when the ball is close to the rail it's best to put low on the cuts to prevent the cue ball from jumping off the rail.
Sometimes you have to hit the really thin cuts with a lot of authority just to get them to the pocket. "Low" come off the rail with "High" and you can hit it as hard as you want without fear of it jumping off the table.
Of course I also suggest using a "TOI" when hitting it low to make sure it cuts thin.
You can actually cut a ball slightly thinner by cueing low on the cue ball. Just try it, cutting a ball at a 90 degree angle cueing both high and low. Here's my theory why that is - when you cue high you actually throw the object ball just a hair on contact. This doesn't happen when you cue low, there is no throw.
Second major reason for cueing low is the cue ball will NEVER jump the table this way. Cueing high and shooting hard you really turn the cue ball loose and it can jump the table, particularly if the object ball is close to a rail. You have much better control by cueing low. Again I suggest you test both these assertions for yourself and see what you think.