I dont this one looks odd shimmed to 4 3/8", its a GC1 that started life as a 5"-5 1/4" pocket.
I can see a noticeable notch on the nose where the 3 ball sits. The shim by the 1 ball is much better.
Tighter pockets
- Thread starter CESSNA10
- Start date
I can see a noticeable notch on the nose where the 3 ball sits. The shim by the 1 ball is much better.
Maybe they can make that pocket jig for pool too. https://youtu.be/zbHyD5C5NG8?t=237
I invented a pocket jig already, only problem is, only a few mechanics in this country have the tools needed to perform the pocket work, so what good is the pocket jig?
Well, you would think the fools would buy the right tools.
Not to many installers are interested in being table mechanics, but all are interested in getting paid!! Why are there so many complaints about how the tables play at Hard Times in Sacramento, who's been working on them since it opened?? Why would they now need to be replaced?
Way too tight imoI've done it. It works fine. In fact, I absolutely agree with the use of thicker facings, as opposed to stacking thinner ones.
Sometimes, a customer cannot afford, or simply does not want to pay, to have the sub-rails extended. In some rare cases, I have actually installed 3/8" thick 50A neoprene facing material.
Of course, it does not play exactly as a properly extended sub-rail plays. But, it isn't nearly as bad as some of you guys would like to suggest. How many have you have actually played on a table that was done in this way?
This table had fairly new cushions, when the new owner purchased it. Rather than spend the additional money on getting the table 'perfect', he opted to spend a fraction, to get the table playable (with the pocket specs that he wanted). When he is ready for new cloth, we will discuss whether he wants to make the investment in extending the sub-rails and replacing the cushions.
And looking at the corner pocket, I bet it spits out rail shots all day.
Worse after midnight when humidity goes up.:thumbup:
I think 4 7/16 with less flare than Diamond, is tight enough for corners.
Add 3/4 for the sides.
I agree! I have Mark Gregory 4-1/2” corner rails and shooting object balls froze against the rail are tricky at best, if shot with authority. I can’t imagine trying to deal with 4-1/8” corners. As the cloth ages and becomes a bit sticky it seems to get more challenging.
Did you mean to state, “Add 1/2 for the sides”? I thought the typical side pocket was about 1/2” wider than corners?
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If you can line up 4 balls frozen to the side rail at the center diamond of one of the head side rails, shoot the frozen combination at basically break speed, pocket the point ball in the corner pocket....and it goes in without being rejected, then YOU are the reason the pockets spit balls out, NOT the pocket!!!
No doubt, not trying to blame the table, or pockets for my inaccuracies. Just noting that it got real challenging for me reducing the stock corners from 5 to 4-1/2” with frozen balls on the sides. Trying to go down 1/2” more would be no fun for this old man.
3/4
Pro corners can be brutal when the ball is barely off the rail and you need to hit with outside draw for position. Room for error is very slim.
Hitting the middle of that end rail facing can be brutal too.
WPA needs to examine their specs but they won't.
JC
Coos Cues
I hope you haven't been using it though because as you are well aware of I slapped a patent on it while you ran down to the hardware store to get a couple of screws for two days. :nono:
Here is another cost cutting option to extend a rail.
*****Trent, Glen...please note that this not my method.*****
But it sounds doable.
Blame this guy..https://thebudgetbilliard.com/3-ways-to-tighten-your-pool-table-pockets/
EXTENDING THE RAIL AND REPLACING THE CUSHIONS
This is the most time, labor and material intensive option, but it will give you the truest playing table and the most similar to the Diamond Pro Cut pockets.
I have done this a couple of different ways. I have measured and cut wood and nailed it to the end of the rail to extend it. That was a huge pain, especially trying to get the angles correct. I did it on an antique table that the customer wanted to close up an inch and a half. I ended up cutting an antique rail to get the wood extensions I needed. Won’t be doing that again!
What I do now is glue a series of cushion facings to the end of the rail and cut off the front of them in line with the angle of the front of the rail. The facings easily mold to the angle of the end of the rail and are firm enough to attach the new cushion to. I then replace the cushion rubber and extend it all the way to the end of my longer rails and use just the one standard cushion facing at the ends.
*****Trent, Glen...please note that this not my method.*****
But it sounds doable.
Blame this guy..https://thebudgetbilliard.com/3-ways-to-tighten-your-pool-table-pockets/
EXTENDING THE RAIL AND REPLACING THE CUSHIONS
This is the most time, labor and material intensive option, but it will give you the truest playing table and the most similar to the Diamond Pro Cut pockets.
I have done this a couple of different ways. I have measured and cut wood and nailed it to the end of the rail to extend it. That was a huge pain, especially trying to get the angles correct. I did it on an antique table that the customer wanted to close up an inch and a half. I ended up cutting an antique rail to get the wood extensions I needed. Won’t be doing that again!
What I do now is glue a series of cushion facings to the end of the rail and cut off the front of them in line with the angle of the front of the rail. The facings easily mold to the angle of the end of the rail and are firm enough to attach the new cushion to. I then replace the cushion rubber and extend it all the way to the end of my longer rails and use just the one standard cushion facing at the ends.
And your feather strip ends up being the same length as it was, so now you have to try and tuck that extra cloth around behind all those stacked up facings you're using to extend the rails.
There's a 4th method of extending the rails as well, it's called call me when you've saved up enough money to pay to have it done right!! That's why I don't bother showing cheaper short cuts to doing this work correctly.
It is not that expensive to do the extensions properly. It also is not as difficult as the guy says it is. I cannot understand how he thinks it is that hard. Anyways, the conclusion is many people are CHEAP. They wanna buy a piece of junk table and expect someone to make it play like a Gold Crown or a Diamond. I used to have a hard time telling people I do not want to work for them and now it is politely "I can't take on anymore work right now". 
Trent from Toledo
Trent from Toledo
There is only one way to properly do the job and this isn’t it. Will it “work”? Sure. Will it play properly? Not a chance.
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Yep. I've played on a few of these "Franken-tight" tables over the years and they all play weird to say the least. Definitely the lo-rent way to tighten one.