Gold Crown Rail Install

FeelDaShot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
To the skilled mechanics out there:

Is there any special aligning I should be doing when bolting on the rails? I know there is a little play in the rails and they can be slightly tweeked in one direction or another. What techniques are best for getting them all square to each other?

Thanks
 

garczar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
To the skilled mechanics out there:

Is there any special aligning I should be doing when bolting on the rails? I know there is a little play in the rails and they can be slightly tweeked in one direction or another. What techniques are best for getting them all square to each other?

Thanks
For one thing, iirc, RKC says 12-15ft/lbs torque on rail bolts.
 

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
To the skilled mechanics out there:
Thanks
With respect, you don't have to be a skilled mechanic to answer this question; you just have to read the manual.

The service manual, which is actually the installation manual, is available free online, here at AZB, albeit with a few pages missing. (Search for posts form Trenetform toledo with the work "free" in the subject.) It explains how to square up the corners and straighten the sides.
 

Boxcar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Combination of "eye-ball" and a true "straight edge." One of life's small blessings is that pool tables don't require a degree in rocket surgery.
 

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Combination of "eye-ball" and a true "straight edge." One of life's small blessings is that pool tables don't require a degree in rocket surgery.

A long straightedge with smooth-ended wood blocks screw to it, to raise the edge to nose height; and, a carpenter's square with the same block treatment, are the tools you need.

I confess this is entirely speculative for me. I have a Gold Crown I, and plans to rebuild it, following a poor installation. But I've been studying the manual, and learning from this forum.

I'm also planning on making one, or maybe a set of four corner templates: wooden devices that when pressed into the corners insure that when things are tightened, the dimensions of the pocket are correct. But given that there's a Brunswick specification that the corner and side pocket castings be flush with or no more than 1/32" beyond the rail trim, I think that once this is satisfied and everything is square and straight, you are done, and the pocket dimensions will be consistent, but unalterable.

Cheers,

jv
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
Combination of "eye-ball" and a true "straight edge." One of life's small blessings is that pool tables don't require a degree in rocket surgery.

I have always considered becoming a "rocket surgeon". :thumbup::thumbup:
 

98falstaff

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Have all rails attached to pocket irons and set on table. Set your end rails slightly snug and centered to the holes where they can be bumped around. Measure diagonally across table end to end at the same precise points on both end rails. When readings are the same, ends should be square and even. Tighten both end rails. Now all that should be done is to snug up the long rails slightly, use a long level/straight edge on cushions to straighten them up. Make sure each side of side pockets are even and straight, eyeballing is not out of the question at this point either. Do final tightening to proper specs. That how I do it anyway. :grin-square:
 
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