Would you pay $75 to have your shaft converted to reduced deflection ?
- Thread starter JoeyInCali
- Start date
Agreed. Seems like a far better use of money.
Lot of contingencies.:smile:
I'm still learning and only make cues for people i know, so take this with a grain of salt.
I drill most shafts i make, 7" - 9" deep. if you can do the work starting over on a _finished_ shaft, $75 is too cheap! For one thing, taking "a lot" of wood off the inside can cause a shaft blank to warp, just like taking it off the outside so the risk factor is there. OTOH, 5" is more stable than deeper. Would i pay someone to do it on a solid shaft? probably not for reasons stated by others above. Either the shaft plays well so i would not want to mess with success, or it does not play well and it would probably be better to save up and have a custom LD made from scratch.
BTW: taking a random solid shaft of your own or other make and converting it - is it immediately an obviously better performer?
If so & you can provide that service for $75 including CF tube, ferrule and tip, you earned it! All it takes is a few people that are happy, and it could be a new market.
smt
I'm still learning and only make cues for people i know, so take this with a grain of salt.
I drill most shafts i make, 7" - 9" deep. if you can do the work starting over on a _finished_ shaft, $75 is too cheap! For one thing, taking "a lot" of wood off the inside can cause a shaft blank to warp, just like taking it off the outside so the risk factor is there. OTOH, 5" is more stable than deeper. Would i pay someone to do it on a solid shaft? probably not for reasons stated by others above. Either the shaft plays well so i would not want to mess with success, or it does not play well and it would probably be better to save up and have a custom LD made from scratch.
BTW: taking a random solid shaft of your own or other make and converting it - is it immediately an obviously better performer?
If so & you can provide that service for $75 including CF tube, ferrule and tip, you earned it! All it takes is a few people that are happy, and it could be a new market.
smt
In the metric system the prefix milli is 'm' while the prefix MEGA is 'M'.
So you are guaranteeing that you won't take 100,000 meters (100 kilometers) off a shaft that is less than 1 meter long.
Seams like an easy thing to guarantee, but get the capitalization correct if you bother to use the metric system.
Ok. let's just keep it simple.
.004"
1mm is about .0394"
Joey~Not into metric prefixes but knows his pants have seams and seem is a verb~
:thumbup:
No, I would just bye a new shaft unless the shaft was a piece of poop and I didn’t care about hosing it up.
Mr. Dzuricky makes shafts with carbon fibre rods in them. I have made shafts with 3/8" carbon fibre rod about 6" deep into the shaft.
They play fine, I don't makes them less than 12.5mm.
In my experience they play stiffer, but not really super low deflection.
They play fine, I don't makes them less than 12.5mm.
In my experience they play stiffer, but not really super low deflection.
I don't care how knowledgeable your cue makers are, or how knowledgeable you are, but NO two cues, shafts, or combinations thereof, play the same.
Sometimes a cue/shaft is a dog and, using your strategy, I guess that is the way you "want their cue/shaft to play".
I have had HOF cue makers shafts, that were supposedly IDENTICAL and they played COMPLETELY different (in stiffness, in deflection, in feel, even while on the same butt built by the same cue maker). Did he want his shafts to play differently?
I DIDN'T.
Sometimes shafts can be IMPROVED by modifying something (taper, ferrule, tip, etc.)
I wouldn't without some type of snazzy sales pitch with some slides and stuff with some science(lol), or if you sponsor a pro I like and he gives the thumbs up I might give it a whirl
Similarly, if someone I knew had it done and I tried it and liked it, of course, I would do it or if it became all the rage on the forums here, with lots of satisfied folks.
I really wouldn't want to spend money to upgrade a shaft I like, incase I don't like the finished product. and the heck with spending money to upgrade something I don't like.
I'd be more much likely to buy a plain maple shaft from you to enjoy and test out.
I am pretty simple guy, been playing a 1 piece cue, so my input ain't worth to much
Similarly, if someone I knew had it done and I tried it and liked it, of course, I would do it or if it became all the rage on the forums here, with lots of satisfied folks.
I really wouldn't want to spend money to upgrade a shaft I like, incase I don't like the finished product. and the heck with spending money to upgrade something I don't like.
I'd be more much likely to buy a plain maple shaft from you to enjoy and test out.
I am pretty simple guy, been playing a 1 piece cue, so my input ain't worth to much
Savage....
Next time, use a tube.
Why put anything inside the drilled hole?
My old 29" $ shaft has a hole filled with air, tip backed by regular fiber pad, plays as good as any and better than my BB no ferrule without the hole.
No, I don't think I would.
Hollow shafts always hit hollow. Never seen an exception to this rule. The shaft won't feel solid and the reduction in deflection will probably not be consistent from shaft to shaft. After a while you start to recognize the weak and "clicky" hit from a hollow shaft. It may not strike you in the beginning, but after a while it starts to bug you (or at least it does me). Predator Z's are the prime example. After a while you begin to recognize this hit in all hollow shafts. Some are better than others, but it can never quite be masked. There's no getting around it, unless you use carbon fibre for the whole shaft, which has other problems.
I might pay 150 dollars for a shaft that has been made like this just for an experiment, if I get to try it first. Maybe even 200 dollars if it was extremely well made. It would have to beat the McDermott G-core at the very least and at least be on par with a Predator 314 to be worth considering. Don't forget I could get a used but nice Predator shaft of my desire for probably around 100 dollars at the pool hall, whenever the next sucker gets tricked into buying one of their 500 dollar wonders. Makes it hard to want to take a leap on an unproven (to me) concept that may be a huge disappointment.
But there is no way in hell I'm paying you (or anyone else) 75 dollars to potentially ruin one of my shafts. My experience with cue repair people is less than stellar. "My lathe exploded". "My dog's getting puppies". "Religious holiday" (of course the excuses are not quite this silly, but after a while they begin to sound like that). Meanwhile I'm waiting 1 year on a refinish...
I wish you good luck, but if I were you, I'd buy blanks and sell ready made shafts. That way you won't have to explain why the customers favourite shaft got ruined (by accident in the lathe), or just underperform in that persons opinion. If you proceed, I hope you have good nerves....It won't be fun having to replace 3-400 dollar shafts from near impossible to source makers...Unreasonable people are found on both sides of the counter. Some customers are just impossible to please. Maybe it would be better for sales to charge a premium price, like 300 dollars or something. People are suckers for expensive "custom" products.
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I'm with you on one point.
There is no way in hell that I'm taking a shaft that I think plays really well and having it modified.
Like you, I may buy something like that if I had a chance to try it out, liked it, and it fit my cue.